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225 HEI 180 out

52m38

Same jeep since 1980
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Ok so the net says my 225 (HEI) wont run with the dizzy 180 out.. Mine is and has been for years; it runs great. ????? Advice
 
How do you know its 180 out?

In theory, it can run, as long as you have the #1 on an ODD post. For proper timing, it needs to point to the shortest post inside the OF HEI Cap.

It is also possible that if it is a converted EF base, things can be.... shall we say "different". After building, converting, and running them for years - I've seen some pretty weird stuff over the years on rigs I've worked on.
 
From the front my 68 cj is #1 at 5:00 where its supposed to be. My m38 #1 is at 11:00. I get it Its wrong. Pics tommorow. I'm very Likely missing something obvious
 
Looks like from pics I've found that's where #1 is supposed to be. Sorry, dudes, it's been a bit since I put it in.
Bout S**t myself when I got a response so quick, let alone Super Dave and Warloch back to back


Odd how close that is to my setup
 
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There is SO MUCH bad info out there about the odd fire HEI V6 distributors.
There is also PLENTY of good info here about same. SEARCH!!!
Here are two great starting points:
Some of it is "the only thing we had at the time" info. For many years the only option we had was converting even fire distributors to an oddfire configuration. There were many different bases used from 1976 to 1984 with different cap clocking positions. This really caused confusion, as what worked perfectly for one base simply did not work for another. This has probably contributed to the problem more than anything else. Now that Amazon will deliver an oddfire HEI distributor to you in about 3 hours everything has changed. Hopefully this helps people understand why we did what we did.
 
Some of it is "the only thing we had at the time" info. For many years the only option we had was converting even fire distributors to an odd fire configuration. Hopefully this helps people understand why we did what we did.
When I refer to "out there", I'm pointing at general internet data shared by the masses.
When I refer to "here", I'm pointing to this site and generally better-informed folks.
I should have made that clear. :oops:

When I first discovered the odd-fire HEI, I had to perform a thorough self-taught effort to understand it. I encourage all to do similar.
I should have kept a reference to all the 'bad info" sites on the web.
 
Its important to remember that the clock postion can change depending on how you stab the HEI in the motor. What is critical is that the number one post is the first on counter clockwise from where the modules / coil / tach plug is on the cap as you look at it installed.

See post #34 https://www.earlycj5.com/index.php?threads/81488/page-2

From the bottom - its the shortest post on a Stock Type HEI cap.

Hope that helps, and I have a full http page that explains how an odd fire works (had one with animation... not sure it works any longer). Much of it is the same as Dave has already posted.
 
The way I see it, the important issue is the angles between the plug wires.
An even-fire V6 will be 60-60-60-60-60-60 degrees for 360 degrees of rotation.
Any one of six orientations (where you stab the distributor) will work.
As long as you get the firing order right.
The odd-fire engine goes 45-75-45-75-45-75 for the same 360 degrees.
Instead of six there are only three rotor postions that will work for plug #1.

From Chuck's wire arrangement shown in his link https://www.earlycj5.com/index.php?threads/81488/post-874217
you could move the rotor ("stab" location) and wires two posts forward or two posts back and it would be ok.
As long as you get the firing order right.
 
The way I see it, the important issue is the angles between the plug wires.
An even-fire V6 will be 60-60-60-60-60-60 degrees for 360 degrees of rotation.
Any one of six orientations (where you stab the distributor) will work.
As long as you get the firing order right.
The odd-fire engine goes 45-75-45-75-45-75 for the same 360 degrees.
Instead of six there are only three rotor postions that will work for plug #1.

From Chuck's wire arrangement shown in his link https://www.earlycj5.com/index.php?threads/81488/post-874217
you could move the rotor ("stab" location) and wires two posts forward or two posts back and it would be ok.
As long as you get the firing order right.
The problem I've found with moving to another ODD post is that they are longer under the cap. You can 'time' it at a different point. That makes the spark connection vary for the shortest post (the one I've labled as #1) to the point where I've even seen it 'miss' on that cyl (3 or 5 depending on which one you used). The other two are longer so the pickup sets the spark based on the lob which can/is along the length of the longer post tabs. That's why they put it in a V8 cap with the different lenghts vs just using a 6 post cap.
 
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