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Questions on 16” Rims / Tires / Tubes

linckeil

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
I have a set of original 16” rims, measuring 4.5” wide (inside of bead lip to inside of bead lip). They have been sandblasted, epoxy primed, and top coated with single stage, 2 part (paint and hardener) acrylic urethane. It will be used on a 1960 CJ5 with a 2” suspension lift, dana 30 front axle, Saginaw manual steering, and 11”drums all around. Jeep will see 75% pavement use around town, and 25% relatively light offroad use.

1) I want to run 7.50-16 tires. This size gives me the height I want and is just a tad wider than what is recommended for my rims. Most tire manufacturers recommend this size tire being used with a 5” to 6” rim width. But I’ve seen quite a few people running this tire size on 4.5” rims. Any issues?

2) Tubes – Do I need them? Originally, they were equipped with tubes given the rim’s riveted construction (versus welded as the reproductions are). These rims are very well prepped and coated, so I’m thinking they are sealed up. Maybe running tubes would be a good idea given the rims are slightly under the recommended width? Anyone running these original rims without tubes? What is your experience?

3) Bias Ply or Radial – Most manufacturers list only bias ply in the 7.50-16 size. Would bias ply be ok given my intended use, or am I better off with radials?
 
Lots of questions. The 11" drum will not fit most stock 16" rims if set up on the outside of the hub. Might want to check the rims before mounting tires or you might end up running spacers. The truck and FC had 11" drums on the inside of the hubs. The truck 11" eccentric adjusted brakes are only marginally better then 9" brakes though. They are also much harder to service.
Most rims that are painted or powder coated will run without tubes. Bias ply tires depend on how often the Jeep will be driven. If only driven every couple of weeks, they can be miserable as flat spots take 20 miles to go away and turn round again. So if all your miles are on the road, radials might be a better choice.
 
My jeep has a mix of 16" wheels. One hd, two regular old jeep wheels and one Ford wheel.
I am running 7.50-16 bias with two inner tubes out of the four as they developed leaks.

Take the wheels into the shop off of the vehicle and you will have fewer issues since it is the same as a tractor or implement at that point. (New idea rakes or hay wagon running gear use 5 on 5.5" 16" wheels.
 
Here’s a few pictures of the wheels.

They fit over the 11” drums no problem.

They do not have the inner safety bead found on modern tubeless rims. So even though I’m confident the rims will seal up, maybe I should run tubes?

I mount and balance my own tires, so no concern dealing with a shop.

I don’t have any experience with bias ply tires, but sounds like radials are the better option for me. Gotta see if I can find them in the 7.50-16 size.

Thanks for the comments. Any other thoughts? Anyone aware of a 7.50-16 tire in a radial? More readily available metric sized radial tires would be nice, but the 2 closest are a 215 85 16 (shorter than a 7.50-16) and a 235 85 16 (wider than a 7.50-16)
 

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yep - i just found those. they also sell in mud terrain.
i like the look of the old school traction bias ply's, but radials is most practical for me.
the BFG's are over $250 per tire!!! but they are the size i need and radials.
at least i know they exist. i'm still a few months away from a purchase
 
I have run 7.50's on 4.5" x16 inch wheels for years, no issues. No tubes. I could air them down to 12 psi on the Rubicon, and never lost a bead. I always have used bias ply, yes, they are a little square in the morning, but that works out quickly. And they fit fine with 11" drums. It's 15" wheels that don't quite clear 11" drums.
 
I ran 285/16 on skinny rims for years no tube no safety lip went to as little as 5 psi never lost a bead...your mileage may vary.
A 285 tire calls for a minimum rim width of 7.5".
Are you saying you ran 285 tires on 4.5" wide rims?
Or did you mean 235 tires (which would still be really pushing it)
 
I had on old snow tire laying around from my plow truck. Size 235 85 16. I also have a spare original 16” (4.5” wide) riveted CJ wheel.
I put a valve stem in it and mounted the tire (without tube). Its been holding 50psi for the past 3 days.
The tire does seem to fit the rim quite well. I’d prefer for the tire to be a bit more narrow, but it fits better than I expected. I don’t think I’ll have any problem running this size tire. Lots more options and much better prices too.
 

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I also wanted to see how it fit on the spare tire carrier. When mounted up, I slide a sheet of paper between the tire and the body. Close, but should be fine. I can also easily space the carrier out a bit if needed. FYI, the tire mounted on the axle is size 6.50-16, so a decent bit shorter and narrower, but with 235 85 16 all around, I don’t see there being any issues unless I’m really flexing the suspension off road, in which case the spare would come off anyway.

I know there was originally a small block of wood that held the spare off the body. Should I incorporate something like that here?
 

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