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F-Head question

I get that the F-Head is generally out of it's depth on today's roads and in high speed traffic. Or on some extreme expeditions.

But it's a damn shame to believe that they all need to be hot-rodded. I often wish this site had more appreciation for preserving them as true classics, that at one time literally defined off-roading and changed the automotive world immensely.

And for the record, for my uses exploring the New England woods, and living in a rural village, the F-134 is still perfect.
 
I get that the F-Head is generally out of it's depth on today's roads and in high speed traffic. Or on some extreme expeditions.

But it's a damn shame to believe that they all need to be hot-rodded. I often wish this site had more appreciation for preserving them as true classics, that at one time literally defined off-roading and changed the automotive world immensely.

And for the record, for my uses exploring the New England woods, and living in a rural village, the F-134 is still perfect.

I don’t believe there’s a lack of appreciation around here for original iron; we’re just realists. Not too many people have the luxury of owning a hobby car that they can’t realistically drive on the roads around them. Pete, I’m not sure you realize how privileged you are to live in an area that you won’t get t-boned or rear-ended just pulling out of your driveway at f-head speeds. I love these old things, but it comes down to either modifying it or not owning one at all, because I’m not dying for my hobby just to keep it original in the name of preserving their history. IMO, that’s what museums are for.
 
X2 Pete. I've had many wonderful years taking it slow with my F-Heads and taking it all in. Yes, I've hit 50 MPH a few times (yikes) but certainly the exception. I have many, many trouble free miles just doing what they were designed to do.
 
Welding would be a good skill but you can get conversion mounts that bolt onto the frame. You will want saginaw steering which needs welding but you can retain the ross steering with the right remote oil filter adapter.

Looks like you've been on the forum since the dawn of time. Sit and think about what you enjoy and the end goal. If you enjoy it as it is than fix it.
 
yep, I did the restoration (with the help of this site) before my daughter was born and she is now 26 and married. Took the Jeep to Tellico for a early CJ trailride shortly after putting it back together. Which was a great way to actually meet the people who helped me along the way. It is good to see that the site is still helpful and thriving as most don't last this long. I do see a couple names from the past.

The f-head works for me, and unless it gives up the ghost, I'll keep it. Yes, there are times that V6 power would be nice, but I really enjoy just rolling along at 45. Just don't love it when I HAVE to get on the highway/interstate.

I will update when I figure out the issue. Focus now is on my son's wedding so the Jeep is just going to have to do what it does.
 
I get that the F-Head is generally out of it's depth on today's roads and in high speed traffic. Or on some extreme expeditions.

But it's a damn shame to believe that they all need to be hot-rodded. I often wish this site had more appreciation for preserving them as true classics, that at one time literally defined off-roading and changed the automotive world immensely.

And for the record, for my uses exploring the New England woods, and living in a rural village, the F-134 is still perfect.
I love the sound of an Fhead. I love the old stuff, but as stated, I am a realist. Rebuilding the Fhead far exceeds the cost of a running v6… so put in what you have that’s modern.. that’s what the previous owner of my first 2a did, replaced the Lhead with an F head. Ruined the originality!

Even now, my present 2a uses all old tech to stay relevant. The point about these old jeeps is that they persist because people like us love them. How they get down the road is less important than that they still do.

In today’s world of bubble wrapped whining distracted individuals ,driving my jeep, open top, rowing through the gears is a giant FU to the safe mediocrity machine of the modern world.

Just keep going . Fhead, v6, v8, even electric, keep going.
 
PeteL, wish I'd had my 49 2WD Truck or my 56 Wagon while stationed in CT during the 70's. We spent a lot of weekends on the 2 lane back roads on the 68 Kawi 650 just cruisin'. Woulda been mo' fun in an old Willys rig!
 
I often wish this site had more appreciation for preserving them as true classics, that at one time literally defined off-roading and changed the automotive world immensely.
go join the OWF....try some sort sort of technology from the last 50 years and you start a kerfuffle
 
I get that the F-Head is generally out of it's depth on today's roads and in high speed traffic. Or on some extreme expeditions.

But it's a damn shame to believe that they all need to be hot-rodded. I often wish this site had more appreciation for preserving them as true classics, that at one time literally defined off-roading and changed the automotive world immensely.

And for the record, for my uses exploring the New England woods, and living in a rural village, the F-134 is still perfect.
PeteL,

I absolutely agree with you. I commuted weekly from UMASS Amherst to Southern CT in the 80's driving a CJ3A with a transplanted F head (and overdrive).
I still have the Jeep but 45+ years later it's blowing alot of smoke. Rebuild the F head? Install and Lhead? Install 225? Install 230? I'll probably just drop in a better F head.

My decision is affected by owning a CJ6 with a 225 and a T98. I use different Jeeps for different trips.

My MB and CJ2A will always have L heads, my M170 and CJ5 will always be F heads. No reason (or excuse) for me to change things that work for me.

I get pretty sentimental about preserving history.
 
I’m a convert. You all know that I lamented the F head’s poor power when I first got it. Then I got a V8 transplant in another jeep and didn’t like that. I’m fickle. Anyway, I’ve learned to love my little F134. It is slow and can be scary in traffic, but driving country roads and relaxing is a real joy for me. I also agree with 47V6, I love the sound of the Fhead. Oh, I sold the 71.
 
Since we're on the topic of the F-Head, I recently acquired a '50s CJ5. I have no history of the vehicle, so I dropped the oil pan to take a look at one of the bearings. I'm a novice....not a mechanic. Could the experts provide some feedback on the attached photos of the bearing?
 

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Since we're on the topic of the F-Head, I recently acquired a '50s CJ5. I have no history of the vehicle, so I dropped the oil pan to take a look at one of the bearings. I'm a novice....not a mechanic. Could the experts provide some feedback on the attached photos of the bearing?

It is good you searched but generally it is better to start a new thread with your particular case of engine trouble because these topics can change wildly from unit to unit.

I think the bearings look good, standard size still in the babbit but if it ain't broke don't fix it. Start with compression test, vacuum test, oil pressure. If that is all good leave the factory assembly assembled because you are likely to make things worse than better.
 
Since we're on the topic of the F-Head, I recently acquired a '50s CJ5. I have no history of the vehicle, so I dropped the oil pan to take a look at one of the bearings. I'm a novice....not a mechanic. Could the experts provide some feedback on the attached photos of the bearing?

If you are new to F-heads, be advised that they are not like modern engines and their bearings respond poorly to highway speeds and high rpms. It's very easy to ask too much of an early Jeep when trying to keep up with modern traffic.
 
I have to disagree with the condition of that bearing. Yes, its great to see a “standard” size in there, meaning the crankshaft has never been turned undersize, but a lot of trash/debris has circulated through that, and likely the rest of the bearings. I would not continue running bearings that look like that. What does the crank journal look like? I expect there are corresponding marks on the crank, which may be able to be polished out.
All those tiny specs in the bearing are metal and grit imbedded in the soft bearing material. This is exactly what scores the crank journal, and the more its run, the more it chews up.
 
I agree with the naysayers about this bearing. I also think you should put back together, torque it to the correct spec and run it until it stops. It might run forever for you or it might spin a bearing.

The fact is, it’s the same basic price to weld a journal after a spun bearing as to rebuild what you have now percentage wise.

These engines are antique, parts are expensive but finding a shop to cut your journals to .010 undersized, .030 oversized cylinders, buy the appropriate bearings, pistons, rings etc is a lot of work and a lot of money.

If your version of fun is fixing this to perfect specs, go for it. If fun is driving it, then do it!
 
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