Seized parking brake cable

[Fresbone]

Title describes what is happening. Do I try to rehabilitate it because it is likely an original part, or is that an exercise in futility? Partsdude has a replacement available.

 

[Beach66Bum]

You could try soaking it to free it up. A deciding factor would be if there’s fraying on the ends (or if you find fraying anywhere along the length) then a replacement would be the way to go for piece of mind.

 

[Ol Fogie]

You could try soaking it to free it up. A deciding factor would be if there’s fraying on the ends (or if you find fraying anywhere along the length) then a replacement would be the way to go for piece of mind.

X2, as Roy said above. Might remove it from the jeep, hang vertically so you can soak with a 25/75 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid. I freed up all 3 cables on my 74 that were totally frozen with rust. I just put a few drops into the top end of the cable every day and let it drain down and soak, Took about a week. when it began to move I changed to some old gear oil. Good as new, maybe better.

 

[iharding]

Off the vehicle I would definitely give it a try. I tried freeing some up on a jeep and gave up. Experienced parts are worth trying to save every time.

 

[Fresbone]

I have got it moving. Gear oil starts tonight.

 

[PeteL]

You could try soaking it to free it up. A deciding factor would be if there’s fraying on the ends (or if you find fraying anywhere along the length) then a replacement would be the way to go for piece of mind.

X3

 

[Fresbone]

X3

No visible fraying. Gear oil doesn't drip down the housing as well as penetrating oil. Would some heat make a difference? Like a heat gun on low.

 

[PeteL]

No visible fraying. Gear oil doesn't drip down the housing as well as penetrating oil. Would some heat make a difference? Like a heat gun on low.

I'd use ATF and plenty of time. Repeat.

 

[Fresbone]

I'd use ATF and plenty of time. Repeat.

Reading about lubricants always confuses me. I have the cable freed up, but it doesn't glide easily, so to me it needs lubrication. Please help me understand this.
Gear oil - a lubricant, heat resistant, very viscous therefore hard to get in the housing, may attract dirt
ATF - a hydraulic fluid, has anticorrosion additives, less viscous than gear oil, not really a lubricant, need to be careful with some materials
Penetrating oil - breaks up rust, is a lubricant, thin and won't last a long time
I have used Superzilla in the past for interior cables. I believe it is a silicone based lubricant. also breaks up rust.
WD-40 - just a cleaner.

 

[amboynut]

https://blasterproducts.com/product/chain-and-cable-lubricant/

 

[Ol Fogie]

https://blasterproducts.com/product/chain-and-cable-lubricant/

I just happened to have on hand some gear oil that worked well, it might attract dirt some for sure. A good specialty chain or cable lube could quite possibly be a better choice. Even better might be a dry lube of graphite if you can get the interior of the cable housing oil free first, might rinse oil out the freed-up cable with acetone, let it evaporate then us a graphite cable lube??? JMO my 3 cents worth.

 

[Howard Eisenhauer]

. I have the cable freed up, but it doesn't glide easily

There will still be rust particles in there, I know no way of getting them out. The cable may be working but I don't think it will ever be smooth.

 

[jeep2003]

Its worth a try but it will want to be nice and loose you dont want the added resistence of pulling the handle or releasing it. Because you would need a stiffer return spring and thats no fun. I would use pb blaster or any penetrating lube is fine. and work it back and forth a million times. Grab an end in the bench vice and go at it. You should be able to apply heat aswell since its an all metal cable as long as you can identify generaly where its stuck. Its a 50/50 chance