PieLut
Member
Had a fun little project recently for your enjoyment. After I broke my drivers side axle earlier in 2025, I pieced everything back together only to find that the Detroit locker would not disengage. After several attempts at trying to manually disengage the locker I decided to pull the differential cover. With the cover removed and oil oozing from the bottom, I noticed small chunks of steel poring out. In hindsight I should have pulled the cover after the breakage. So off with the axle to start the investigation.
Once the rear axle was down to its individual components I quickly learned that the locker broke the drivers side clutch pack. Luckily West Coast Differential had one in stock buried under a pile of dust. Part number 68270
I also figured now was a good time to replace both carrier bearings since these had pitting on both the cup and come.
Part number, 25523 cup and 25577 for cone
It was somewhere between fixing the locker and inspecting the drum brakes that I decided to upgrade to disc brakes. I like the beefiness and availability of the GM parts over other options in this category, so that’s what I went for. The only odd ball part is the caliper mounting plate but that was easily sourced from Parts Mike.
Let’s “brake” it down to all the required components and then start assembly.
Caliper Bracket
Parts Mike...CB7191
Calipers from 1980 Chevy K10 4x4
Duralast Part C529, C528
Brake pads that fit the caliper
Brake hose from 1978 Chevy K10
Dorman Part H79339
Wheel studs
Dorman Part 610-219
Rotors from a 1977-78 CJ 1-1/8' thick
Bendix Part PRT1155
Now for the fun part…
I started with the tapered hubs, rotors and wheel studs. The hubs and rotors become one piece once the new wheel studs are pressed in place. I did have to throw one hub in the lathe to clean up some casting that was interfering with the fit.
Once the rotors and hubs where married I test fit my Spidertrax wheel spacers and noticed that the holes in the wheel spacers where less than a 1/16” too small. A quick ride on the drill press and a 5/8” drill bit did the trick.
I test fit all the components and once everything was bolted up temporarily it was only a matter of time for removal and reassembly with some gasket maker. One thing to note with the setup is that the original oil shield/cup will not fit as there isn’t enough room for it.
The assembly is very easy and straightforward. The original bearing shims and bearing keeper go back on just as before. I then bolted the caliper bracket on with the same 6 bolts that originally held on the backing plate. Next I took some gasket maker and installed the grease seal. Rotor and hub come next along with the axle retaining nut, washer and cotter pin.
I welded on a simple tab to the top of my u-bolt plate. This locates the new brake hose.
The brake pads and caliper mounting bolts are self explanatory.
Additionally, I was forced to replace my Wilwood rear side proportioning valve from 10lb to 2lb to adjust from drum to disc. After that it was a matter of bleeding the brakes and giving her a test run.
I really like the simplicity of the set up. No more brake shoes to adjust or stuck on drums to force off. Just beefy, simple parts that will likely never have to be replaced.
All buttoned up and back on the Jeep. So far everything seems great. I'm chasing a leak in the system so until I fix that I won't have a solid opinion on how well it works.
Once the rear axle was down to its individual components I quickly learned that the locker broke the drivers side clutch pack. Luckily West Coast Differential had one in stock buried under a pile of dust. Part number 68270
I also figured now was a good time to replace both carrier bearings since these had pitting on both the cup and come.
Part number, 25523 cup and 25577 for cone
It was somewhere between fixing the locker and inspecting the drum brakes that I decided to upgrade to disc brakes. I like the beefiness and availability of the GM parts over other options in this category, so that’s what I went for. The only odd ball part is the caliper mounting plate but that was easily sourced from Parts Mike.
Let’s “brake” it down to all the required components and then start assembly.
Caliper Bracket
Parts Mike...CB7191
Calipers from 1980 Chevy K10 4x4
Duralast Part C529, C528
Brake pads that fit the caliper
Brake hose from 1978 Chevy K10
Dorman Part H79339
Wheel studs
Dorman Part 610-219
Rotors from a 1977-78 CJ 1-1/8' thick
Bendix Part PRT1155
Now for the fun part…
I started with the tapered hubs, rotors and wheel studs. The hubs and rotors become one piece once the new wheel studs are pressed in place. I did have to throw one hub in the lathe to clean up some casting that was interfering with the fit.
Once the rotors and hubs where married I test fit my Spidertrax wheel spacers and noticed that the holes in the wheel spacers where less than a 1/16” too small. A quick ride on the drill press and a 5/8” drill bit did the trick.
I test fit all the components and once everything was bolted up temporarily it was only a matter of time for removal and reassembly with some gasket maker. One thing to note with the setup is that the original oil shield/cup will not fit as there isn’t enough room for it.
The assembly is very easy and straightforward. The original bearing shims and bearing keeper go back on just as before. I then bolted the caliper bracket on with the same 6 bolts that originally held on the backing plate. Next I took some gasket maker and installed the grease seal. Rotor and hub come next along with the axle retaining nut, washer and cotter pin.
I welded on a simple tab to the top of my u-bolt plate. This locates the new brake hose.
The brake pads and caliper mounting bolts are self explanatory.
Additionally, I was forced to replace my Wilwood rear side proportioning valve from 10lb to 2lb to adjust from drum to disc. After that it was a matter of bleeding the brakes and giving her a test run.
I really like the simplicity of the set up. No more brake shoes to adjust or stuck on drums to force off. Just beefy, simple parts that will likely never have to be replaced.
All buttoned up and back on the Jeep. So far everything seems great. I'm chasing a leak in the system so until I fix that I won't have a solid opinion on how well it works.
