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CJ 6 Improvement

3b a runnin

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I have future plans to upgrade my cj6. I’m starting to get together the major components for the conversion.
My basic goal is to change the current drivetrain to a more modern one. The current Dauntless, T15, D18 w/od, and the stock axles will come out (probably go up for sale at some point).
I’m going to try a Chevy 4.3L, 700r4, D300, with a D30 and centered 44.
I have all the major components. All these things will need a rebuild before they are installed.
Here is the donor. 92 S10 4wd with 149k
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I have already pulled the engine, transmission,
wiring harness (what a pain), including the computer, throttle cable/pedal, coolant recovery bottle etc.
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This truck has antilock brakes, is there any purpose to save any of those parts?
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The steering box seems ok but is only 2 1/2 turns lock to lock and only 3 bolt mounting.
Anything else that you guys can recommend that I get from this truck before I scrap it?
 
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My 2000 4.3 was all corroded on the front of the engine too. I just replaced everything including the water pump and alternator. Save the power brake setup because, maybe? but the antilock stuff is garbage. Save O2 sensors even if they are junk to match up. Save the fan, shroud and radiator. Air cleaner stuff too. Motor mounts for reference. Any Transmission cooler lines...Steering collumn!

You can always throw out the garbage later, but its hard to visualize stuff if its not in hand.

Awesome!!
 
If you save the steering column and wiring harness and ultimately use them, also save the windshield wiper motor. Down the road, you may decide intermittent or wiper speed control is something you want. You will have the components to install that.
 
Well I took you guys advice and got some more off the truck,
Steering column
Power brake apparatus, including pedal
Steering box
Tow hooks
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Even got all the mirrors
I put one at my handwashing sink
Hate to blow my nose and leave?@&$? on my face
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Transmission and Tcase were the last to come out. Yes, the oil pan is very deep in the rear with only a very little clearance between it and the front diff. I imagine the extra length of a clutch would make it considerably harder.
 
I'm trying to ship my 700R4 auto to Novak. I've ran into a little snag. Fastenal don't/won't ship anything more than 70lbs, or more than 24in.(any dimension) from my location to Novak in Utah. They said Dakota's were the limit.
I got online and found UShip, which sounds like a management? company that puts out the offer to many shippers, I'm sure for a fee. Each shipping company then sends their quote. I've got quotes from $2000 down to $460.
Anybody ever use UShip? Good? Bad? Any other ideas?
I'll be listening.
 
I've shipped a sailboat from NH to VA with UShip, as well as a Jeep TJ from NH to CA. Both experiences were good ones. I've never shipped anything small, but I have shipped fenders through Greyhound busses. Might be worth a try if you can figure out the last mile logistics.
 
Might be cheaper to just buy one of their turn key transmissions, as they have negotiated shipping rates.
This is exactly what I'm lookin into right now.

Is there something Novak can do that a local shop can't? Might be cheaper and easier to get the job done locally.
1st of all, I don't have any local builders. I live in an extremely small town.
Novak will have to change the output shaft to match the D300, and I like the improvements they do with it also.
I simply don't have a reputable builder in my area.
Even the engine machine shop I had used for yrs is now closed after the owner passed away.
 
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