Why do you regret it? Please elaborate.
See this:
I talked to Redhead steering on the phone today to discuss power saggy boxes....some thoughts that came out of it:
1) they can build a box with a 'heavier' feel valving that might be more palatable to me - there are also existing boxes for applications that could also meet this requirement (Kyle would appreciate knowing a YJ box was suggested - and that could be an easier JY find, or a cheaper option for off the shelf gears from Redhead or whomever than a 'custom' built box). We did NOT discuss price details on anything. What valving would produce the right 'heavy' feel I am looking for...
Basically, I don't like the mushy, no road feel of most 70s style saggy power boxes. I currently have it in the 58 wagon, and even with 6 degree caster shims, toe in set at 1/4", 2 hole knuckle (OEM set-up for wagons), all new TRE's and linkages, new column and intermediate shaft, its just not a great on road feel. I am currently commuting 40 miles roundtrip in the 58 everyday on beautiful winding backroads - would be nice if the handling was better (some suspension mods might also help). Wondering if maybe I have a bit too much toe - maybe open that up just a bit? I also swapped the manual saggy box to a power box in my lifted CJ7 many years ago - same result: crappy road feel. I also had OEM power box in my YJ - it was probably the best, but it also was pretty much stock and the on road handling is much better to start with.
Anyway, As many of you know, I still run the manual ross box on my cj5, but with a 1-piece TR and double hole TRE. Despite all the slop, it has better road feel than an power saggy set up that I've used - I much prefer the manual feel on road. Off road, as long as the front diff was open, I didn't mind the lack of power, except occasionally on very boulder strewn trails (like the rubicon) where the tires jam between the big rocks. Typically, that could be worked around by turning on top of the rocks and rocking when needed. Once the front locker went in, then yes, I'd probably prefer power off-road - especially given with a D27 the only locker option is a lock-rite, so no ability to 'turn it off' when not needed. But I drive my jeep on road a lot as well, and that means trying to find a sweet spot that works both on and off road. So my current plan (which is for me, and not necessarily promoted to anyone else), is to swap to a manual saggy box (keeping the large OEM wheel) which should both help get the slop back to manageable, help with reducing steering effort (23:1 vs 17:1 for the ross), as well as go to a 2-hole knuckle to again help with mechanical advantage, and finally, add a twin stick front cap to the D18 so that I can run in 2lo (thus de-activating the auto locker) for mellow sections of trails, or tight switchbacks etc.
Of course, I am trying to hedge my bets here....as in, things like a 2-hole knuckle and twin stick conversion are good things to have no matter what steering one uses. Also, if I do decide the manual saggy just isn't going to work, I want the option to go power without massive refabrication. With the power box just a longer in front of the sector shaft, I am using a junkyard box to help place the saggy mount (I have rectangular tubing front cross-member just behind the bumper that makes space a bit tight) so it will work with either box.
So let the complaining begin....I do stupid stuff all the time and build my jeep with tractor feel.....I am okay with that, but it might not be what others want. They also might not like the 4:1 T18 that is going in instead of the 6:1.....hopefully my jeep will run again one day, but most likely it will be junk, just like it is now.
