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Lockomatic hubs

I bought a set for my D30, but after disassembly and inspection, decided they were FAR too complex and so many intricate parts, I didn't want them on my old simple rig. I bought WARN premium standard hubs. Unfortunately, WARN standard hubs are no longer available for the D30. Mile Marker / Superwinch has similar ones.
 
Ol Fogie said:
Keep em, works great for just general tooling around on mild wheeling trips. For serious terrain just lockem in like normal locking hubs.
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I actually think those hubs are stronger in the "auto" mode where the drive is all steel on steel. In manual mode, identical to the manual hubs, the drive is through the outer aluminum housing and the steel roller pins. The obvious down side of the auto mode is they disengage with no loading.

Not that complicated of a hub. KW is now marketing Carl Walack's "clutch nut" and lock ring. The shoes are the difficult parts to come by. If those hubs look good inside, I definitely would be using them. Should be several threads on here relating to that endeavor.
 
I have rebuilt several sets of Warn lock O matic hubs. about the only parts available are the the rubber seal for the brass selector. Torque King sell that. Its a square shouldered O ring . On old hubs the rubber is usually rock hard. The hub are very easy to disassemble, and easy to reassemble. I would suggest keeping an eye out for another set. Its always nice to have backup parts on hand. https://torqueking.com/products/15095-tk15095-vintage-hub-o-ring
 
The former Walck's parts:



Don't remember the square profile o-ring number but sourced those from McMaster-Carr. I also made studs to mount the Lock-O-Matics out of 4140 and, as for normal hubs, you want a solid shank at the wheel hub/locking hub interface extending into the counterbore of the wheel hub. I also used ARP's 12 point stainless nuts torqued to 45 ft-lbs with blue Loctite.

These were put together from pieces from 3 pairs----
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duffer said:
I also made studs to mount the Lock-O-Matics out of 4140
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Been thinking about this mod to my D-30 lock-o-matics. Did you thread the studs from 4140 stock from McMaster Carr your self? or did you find the studs and the stainless nuts pre made at McMaster Carr? Thanks
 
Duffer has, by far the best photos of his fine machine work and craftmanship, here.
I wish I could have worked with someone of his caliber while coordinating my engineering/shop efforts at Boeing Commercial Airplanes.
I love the 12-point aircraft quality collars and stud installation he has illustrated.
I share my similar installation only because it is adequate and probably easier and cheaper for the typical CJ owner.
These hubs and stud installation have worked for 10+ years in full off-roading service.
I bought the grade 5 studs and locking nuts at a local hardware store.
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Hey guys....I need some direction. I recently bought a Jeep that has been setting for quite a while. My question is.....the dial is frozen and won't move between free and lock position. I've soaked them and applied heat....no luck. Do I have to drill out the stake and remove the screw to get to the dial? Also, I found the Warn Lock O Matic Hub Special Lock Nut is missing one or more allen screws. I really don't know how many screws belong in this variant of lock nut.
 

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While I haven’t disassembled a set of lock-o-matics, I’ve taken apart several Warn hub dials that were staked like that. I’ve been able to just back out the Allen screw with the correct size Allen wrench, no drilling necessary. After that, I just cleaned up the rough edges and restaked when I put them back together.
Tim
 
I always liked this style of hub. Great for driver rig that may see occasional off roading, exploring, or maybe snow days. I had them on my ‘71 for a long time and wheeled it pretty good with no issues. Went a different route when the powr lok went in up front because I thought I needed to but that may have been unfounded.
 
As I recall, there are two lock screws.
These are ordinary hex set screws that you should be able to source at your local Ace hardware store.
They are in the second-from-the-right ring.

Not sure about your first question - I have some spare parts I can drag out tomorrow maybe.
 
All good responses above. I have rebuilt my warn Loc-o-matic hubs just this past week. I had the same problem with the dials frozen. Yes you need to remove the allen screw that is staked. What I did was I just drilled the steak a little bit with a drill bit to make it release. then removed the allen screw. then the dial can be taped outward and removed. I cleaned up all the parts and removed the corrosion from the underside of the dial. The dial will have a small detent ball that is spring loaded on the underside of the dial that will probably need soaked to free up. do not try to remove this ball as it is steaked into the brass and likely could not be reinstalled. If you need a new o-ring for the dial I believe they are available from Torque King 4x4. As far as the set screws there are three of them. If you cannot find them locally I got some from Grainger I think. They are a special set screw that has a small pilot tip. When installing them not all the set screws will engage into a slot in the lock washer, sometimes when the locknut is fully tight only one or two set screws will engage a slot. I used a silicone base lube under the dial, and regular wheel bearing grease the same grease used on bearings in the rest if the hub assy.
 
timgr said:
As I recall, there are two lock screws.
These are ordinary hex set screws that you should be able to source at your local Ace hardware store.
They are in the second-from-the-right ring.

Not sure about your first question - I have some spare parts I can drag out tomorrow maybe.
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Thanks for the response. My first question was...the dial / selector from free to lock is frozen....won't move.
 
Ol Fogie said:
All good responses above. I have rebuilt my warn Loc-o-matic hubs just this past week. I had the same problem with the dials frozen. Yes you need to remove the allen screw that is staked. What I did was I just drilled the steak a little bit with a drill bit to make it release. then removed the allen screw. then the dial can be taped outward and removed. I cleaned up all the parts and removed the corrosion from the underside of the dial. The dial will have a small detent ball that is spring loaded on the underside of the dial that will probably need soaked to free up. do not try to remove this ball as it is steaked into the brass and likely could not be reinstalled. If you need a new o-ring for the dial I believe they are available from Torque King 4x4. As far as the set screws there are three of them. If you cannot find them locally I got some from Grainger I think. They are a special set screw that has a small pilot tip. When installing them not all the set screws will engage into a slot in the lock washer, sometimes when the locknut is fully tight only one or two set screws will engage a slot. I used a silicone base lube under the dial, and regular wheel bearing grease the same grease used on bearings in the rest if the hub assy.
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Outstanding....many thanks for the assistance! I believe my M3B hub variant only has two set screw on the lock nut....looks like the other two holes are for a spanner wrench of some sort.
 
Could be only two. now that you mention it I believe the early loc-o-matics did only have two set screws, I have one of the spanner wrenches but found it not very helpful. Kinda akward to use. I usually just use a small punch and tap it snug. The lock nut does not need to be very tight, just snug it up, the set screws are what holds it to keep from moving when they are engaged into the washer slots. If the lock nut gets a little boggered up from the use of a punch needed to tighten it be sure to dress off any burs with a file before installing. The locknut needs to be smooth or the friction shoes could be damaged during operation.
 
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