I’ve been thinking YJ box, pump, and lines that make sense for support reasons. However, I’m open to ideas and brands.
Holy Guacamole!
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T.M.
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I’m interested to see how that works out for you. I’ve been struggling to figure out how I want to fix the rocker rust while keeping my original paint and without ending up with a line of new paint along the bottom of the Jeep.
I don’t care if you can see there’s a repair and mine will end up getting mostly covered by a rock slider anyways, but I’d like to get it somewhat matched.
I’ll admit, it’s going to be an experiment. Some vehicle manufacturers’ repair procedures require it on repairs as it doesn’t burn off the corrosion protectant coatings (zinc etc.) that come on today’s vehicles and service parts. Unlike conventional wire fed welding, the silicon bronze flows through the gap and wraps around the back side. It’s also easier to sand/grind. My hope is to have just a bronze line/seam around the replaced patch when done. If that becomes a fail, a little matte additive can be added to the clear coat to match the sheen of the existing paint. Sounds good on paper anyway. We’ll see.
I'm glad you won't need a new harness... it's a lot of work to replace.
I just asked because, for me, some of the desirable boxes are getting hard to find. I like the Saginaw 4-turn box, as found in Wagoneers and maybe some others. With 4 turns, the jeep isn't too twitchy on the road. There is always PSC, that uses Saginaw boxes, but pricey.
Still unsure how to proceed with power steering. After spending the day looking, reading, and thinking, I’m toying with the idea of using the Bronco or Scout steering box and making my own bracket. This would allow me to keep the big Ramsey electric winch (that takes up ALL the space out front, as well as, move the exhaust to inside the frame.
A Ford T18 bearing retainer was the last piece to the puzzle, and it arrived during the week. I have passively been working on adapting this IH 6.32 ratio T19 for use with a Buick engine and D18/20 transfer case.
The recipe: I sourced a NOS Ford T18 input shaft, and a used bearing retainer. The bellhousing is from Advance Adapters in the Ford butterfly pattern. Using the IH bellhousing and a transfer punch, I marked and drilled the holes to match the narrow IH pattern. The whole face of the AA bell is thick (I believe it’s over an inch thick) so not worried about strength. In the back end, I used the rear adapter I had from an intermediate T18. I still need to drill and tap three holes as the 2WD case only had three holes that lined up with the adapter plate. Novak supplied the mainshaft (I went 10 spline as I have a couple gears to match). They also supplied their own spacer and seal that is needed to match their shaft to a factory adapter. This saved me a couple hundred dollars by not needing the whole conversion kit. Novak has good customer service. Next is to clean and assemble.
The recipe: I sourced a NOS Ford T18 input shaft, and a used bearing retainer. The bellhousing is from Advance Adapters in the Ford butterfly pattern. Using the IH bellhousing and a transfer punch, I marked and drilled the holes to match the narrow IH pattern. The whole face of the AA bell is thick (I believe it’s over an inch thick) so not worried about strength. In the back end, I used the rear adapter I had from an intermediate T18. I still need to drill and tap three holes as the 2WD case only had three holes that lined up with the adapter plate. Novak supplied the mainshaft (I went 10 spline as I have a couple gears to match). They also supplied their own spacer and seal that is needed to match their shaft to a factory adapter. This saved me a couple hundred dollars by not needing the whole conversion kit. Novak has good customer service. Next is to clean and assemble.
Not to ask a dumb question, but Ford pattern, how is this going to bolt to a Buick?
The bellhousing is the Buick/BOP pattern on the engine side. AA machines this bell casting in several configurations (GM pattern with small bearing retainer(SM420), GM pattern with large bearing retainer (SM465), and Ford transmission with the symmetrical “butterfly” pattern and whatever their size bearing retainer is (4.85” I think). I purchased the Ford version of the bellhousing as I had originally purchased a NOS Ford T19 case with that pattern. Unfortunately, the IH reverse arm pivot is different than Ford’s and I couldn’t find one to fit the new case. I also have a new clutch on hand with a disk that has the 1-1/16” 10 spline to replace the GM 1-1/8” 10 spline.
I do need to turn down the narrow part of the Ford bearing retainer so I can use the GM Novak adjustable throw out bearing.
Besides turning down the outer diameter, Novak also cuts them shorter so they don't hit the back of the clutch disk.
Here's the length of a Novak modified one:
Ah, see, it was a dumb question. I saw Ford, and thought motor, not T19. Carry on.
Glad you spoke up about something you questioned. I would rather that than someone see something I’m doing wrong a not say anything. Looking back at my post, I could have been more clear about what I was doing. I’m thankful for how respectful everyone is on this forum.
compostwerks
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Wow, the floor looks to be in terrific shape Shaun!!