Converting A Cj2a Into A Truck

[Fireball]

Awesome! I love your coil spring conversion. I took my flat fender to a local jeep fabricator and requested his shop do a coil spring conversion for me. He told me that there is not enough room with narrow axles. I guess you proved it can be done!

Like you, I want a smoother ride. My wife and I have driven 1,400 miles in my flat fender. Old rancho springs are pretty harsh!

Are you a shop? Or a hobbyist? Great build. Great job.

It's not as good as coils, but for a cheap, quick interim solution, you could do what I did to my DJ-3A.

It also has Rancho springs that were way too still. I pulled the 3rd leaf out of the front/rear springs, and flattened the short bottom ones out in the press. They ride has been transformed. It's pretty comfortable even on really choppy stuff now. The ride isn't perfect, but it's very good for short flatfender leaf springs. Most importantly, my wife doesn't hate riding in it anymore. I lost maybe 3/8" of ride height in the process.

Will it effect spring longevity? Probably. Time will tell. When/if they breakor sag, I'll likely move to YJ springs. ..or maybe coils.

Flattening a bottom leaf in the press. The idea is that it won't add to the stiffness during normal ride, but will still help with anti-wrap when the springs want to wind up:

Arch before/after:

Final rear spring with flat bottom leaf and 3rd leaf up removed. There are only 3 leafs contributing to stiffness now instead of 5:

Final front spring:

But! Don't let any of that take away from this coil build. Coils are a better and far more tunable solution.

 

[Inferno!]

Awesome! Thank you! I laid under my jeep and figured there was not enough room for the coil outside the frame. Your solution is outstanding.

 

[Fireball]

Awesome! Thank you! I laid under my jeep and figured there was not enough room for the coil outside the frame. Your solution is outstanding.

It was about a day's worth of work. I never removed the springs from the Jeep and did the leaf removal in place.

 

[cj2atruck]

Awesome! I love your coil spring conversion. I took my flat fender to a local jeep fabricator and requested his shop do a coil spring conversion for me. He told me that there is not enough room with narrow axles. I guess you proved it can be done!

Like you, I want a smoother ride. My wife and I have driven 1,400 miles in my flat fender. Old rancho springs are pretty harsh!

Are you a shop? Or a hobbyist? Great build. Great job.

I’m just a guy who loves jeeps and loves to design/fabricate, but never had any interest in doing work for money….way to many hassles.

Over the last 40+ years, I’ve done a lot of things folks said wasn’t possible, both on Jeeps and motorcycles. It just takes thinking out of the box and not being afraid to fail until I get it right.

 

[cj2atruck]

Awesome! Thank you! I laid under my jeep and figured there was not enough room for the coil outside the frame. Your solution is outstanding.

Coil overs would have been easier than coil springs, but they are expensive and the spring rate is hard to dial in to get a nice ride. This is a picture of a 79 CJ5 I did a couple of decades ago using King coil overs. The jeep worked, but it never rode well on the road, even though I moved the front axle forward 4 inches and the rear axle back 6 inches. The springs on the shocks were for a TJ conversion, but just a little too heavy. On the 79, I didn’t have to cut the frame, everything fit with the coil overs.

IMG_2254 by Rick , on Flickr

IMG_2247 by Rick , on Flickr

 

[Keys5a]

It was about a day's worth of work. I never removed the springs from the Jeep and did the leaf removal in place.

By flattening out the bottom leaf, you essentially made a 2-stage spring. These are what came on all four corners of the Tuxedo Parks.

 

[cj2atruck]

Lots of progress yesterday. I finished the installation of the locker and assembled the brakes, then sealed the cover…but it had a small leak. So, I drained the new oil, removed the cover and did it all over again, but this time with Right Stuff on both the cover and the housing. Done.

I also connected the fuel lines to the mechanical pump and routed to clear the upper link in the front, so that’s handled.

As I tackled building the brakes lines for the rear axle, it occurred to me that not everyone knows how to build complicated brake lines, so I took some pictures to show my process. There are a lot of other ways to build lines with lots of bends in different directions, but this is my method.

I start with a long piece of baling wire and start bending it into shape. The drivers side rear axle hard line starts at the wheel cylinder, slight bend down in the first 1 inch, down at an angle and rearward behind the axle, runs along the back of the axle, turns up, then turns forward over the truss and finally turns towards the passenger side to connect to the brake T that goes to the frame. This is the baling wire template. The wire is small, so might be hard to see.

IMG_3036 by Rick , on Flickr

Next, I flared one end with a hydraulic flaring tool. I’ve used a lot of tools over the years, and after getting this one, all of the others went in the trash.

IMG_3038 by Rick , on Flickr

I used the 3/16” inverted flare clamp, and used the first piece with the nipple to keep from collapsing the tube to make the bubble. The second piece with the point creates the inverted flare.

IMG_3039 by Rick , on Flickr

IMG_3040 by Rick , on Flickr

With the flare and nut on one end, I use a brake line bender (should have taken a picture) to make bends to mirror my wire template. I seem to struggle with the direction of some of the bends, as they are not all 90 degree bends in a straight line and the wire template helps me visualize the direction and angle of the bend.

IMG_3041 by Rick , on Flickr

You can see that I’m pretty close to my template wire, but it will still take some tweaking on final installation. This is the front side of the axle showing the brake line wrapping around in front of the truss.

IMG_3044 by Rick , on Flickr

This is a picture of the lines on both sides finished, and yes, the passenger side was just as complicated to build, maybe a little more complicated.

IMG_3045 by Rick , on Flickr

I use a roll of 3/16” brake line, so the lines are not always perfectly straight from being in a roll, but they are pretty close. I welded short 1/4x20 bolts to the axle to hold two clamps on each side. Several years ago, I failed to install enough clamps and the passenger side flare vibrated and broke, so now I use more clamps.

Front Jeep TJ 6 cylinder springs get installed today to level the jeep again (I was hoping for no lift, but the rear has about 3/4” lift with the TJ springs, so needed to adjust the front). Trying to get the exhaust finished today as well, as the end of the old exhaust interfered with the new shock placement.

 

[cj2atruck]

Lots of progress yesterday. TJ spring for the 6 cylinder are installed and helped level out the jeep. I will end up with about 3/4” lift.

IMG_3047 by Rick , on Flickr

The exhaust is finished as well, but took a little noodling, as the exhaust had to go around the shocks in their new location and exit at the rear bumper. I used a U shaped pipe, cut it in the middle, flipped one side and welded it back together.

IMG_3051 by Rick , on Flickr

IMG_3050 by Rick , on Flickr

For the exhaust tip, I used a 45 degree pipe and cut the end at an angle so the exhaust gas would not get trapped under the jeep and the tips wouldn’t get hit by rocks. this picture is before I did the final cleanup and painted the exhaust, as it’s hard to see the exhaust after paint.

IMG_3052 by Rick , on Flickr

Getting close to the first test drive with the new coil springs. Still need to find a new home for the battery, final trim on the front fenders, bleed the brakes and clean up the wiring in the engine bay. Hoping for a test drive the middle of next week.

 

[cj2atruck]

Test drive day is fast approaching, with only a small punch list remaining. One major hurdle was the battery. I tried every possible location under the hood for the battery and came up empty. In addition, I have so little room in the bed that I didn’t want the battery in the bed, so the next option was inside the Jeep.

Generally, mounting a battery inside is not a good solution, as lead acid batteries can make a mess and they off-gas during charging. So, mounting a battery inside a rig requires spending some money on the right battery.

IMG_3070 by Rick , on Flickr

I opted for an Optima yellow top battery, as these can be mounted inside and are a great battery for use with a winch. I used an aluminum plate off Amazon ($29) that bolts to the floor and uses aluminum tabs shaped like the Optima to hold the battery in place. As you can see, the Optima also has a cover on top to keep anything from arcing between positive and negative posts. This battery also has side posts, but those are covered and on the rear of the battery, so no risk of arcing. So, I gave the local Napa store $360 and they gave me a battery. With the cost of cable, I think the battery cost will be close to $500!!!

Today, I will build new battery cables to the starter (positive) and engine block (negative) and will document that process to help anyone unfamiliar with building custom cables see how easy this process can be. I am also hoping to reseal the transfer case and bleed the brakes. We got a big snow dump yesterday, so want to let that melt a little before the test drive. This will give me time to work on the new skid plate and rock rails on the bottom of the frame to make a smooth transition sliding between the long are mounts.

I also did some final trimming on the fenders and painted the area that was trimmed that should keep things from rusting until I can repaint the entire Jeep in the spring.

 

[cj2atruck]

Battery cables are built and routed to the starter and block. Building custom cables is a pretty simple process, just strip the end of the cable, crimp the end on, heat shrink and attach. I use a hydraulic crimping tool off Amazon, I think it was about $30.

IMG_3073 by Rick , on Flickr

I also use one of these little torches from Amazon for heat shrink, I think the cost was $9 for two of them. They are butane, easy to fill and use, and I carry one on the adventure bike for making fire while camping.

IMG_3077 by Rick , on Flickr

A few minutes work and my cable is ready to attach.

IMG_3078 by Rick , on Flickr

Folks don’t realize that it’s cheaper to buy the cable and ends and make custom length cables than it is to buy cables already made.

I drilled holes in the floor behind the seat for routing cables through a rubber grommet, and added plastic wire loom to the cables for a little extra protection in case the grommet fails. You can also see the cover over the top posts that will keep anything from shorting the battery. Nothing else is going behind this seat, but can’t be too careful.

IMG_3079 by Rick , on Flickr

I didn’t consider a battery shutoff until last night, so might need to add that in the future. I am installing one in the engine bay today to kill power to the winch and compressor, and have one on my Gladiator that kills power to the winch.

I also pulled the pan off the transfer case and sealed yesterday, as it was leaking pretty good around the edge of the pan. Just need to refill with oil today.

I started the jeep, checked for fuel leaks on the new line and checked for any exhaust leaks in the new rear section. Running the 2.25” exhaust pipe to the rear of the jeep give it a low throaty sound, and makes those 100 or so horses sound powerful.

Today, we bleed the brakes, fix any connections that leak (there always seems to be one or two I didn’t get tight) and wait for a little break in the weather for the first test drive.

 

[warrpath4x4]

I make my own cables also, I use welding ground cable (there was a tech article about because the welding ground cable has many more strands inside it, there are more "lanes" for the current to flow through easier) for all of them then use red or black heat shrink

 

[cj2atruck]

I make my own cables also, I use welding ground cable (there was a tech article about because the welding ground cable has many more strands inside it, there are more "lanes" for the current to flow through easier) for all of them then use red or black heat shrink

Yup. I used wire with 469 strands…

 

[cj2atruck]

First test drive today, and all went well.

IMG_3083 by Rick, on Flickr

Several tests:
- 60 MPH
- 4x4 in the mud and snow
- washboard dirt road
- crappy paved road

Everything went well. I was most interested at 60 mph to ensure there was not any bump steer or death wobble. Since all of the parts are new, death wobble was unlikely, but on prior builds, I have had bump steer on the first test drive that required adjustments to the drag link or tie rod. On this build, no steering adjustments are required.

The only issue that I noted was that the steering wheel is cocked at 8/2, but there are a lot of ways to fix this. Some folks don’t care if the steering wheel is cocked, but it drives me nuts, so it will be adjusted.

I had forgotten how noisy the transfer case is when I have the doors on the jeep. I have an idler gear that has been machined to use taper bearings, but they are still in the shipping box. I think installing this gear would quiet the transfer case down a lot…I might be too lazy to deal with it right now since I still have a full task list.

I have 20 days before we head south in the motorhome for 2 months, but still need to finish a few key items:

1. Weld a 2x3 tubing to the bottom of the frame between the lower control arm mounts to help slide over rocks
2. Build a new transmission cross member. This is required with number 1 since the stock cross member bolts to the bottom of the frame. This will also give me 1 additional inch of ground clearance.
3. Build a transmission skid plate. It won’t be completely flat because of the transfer case drain plug, but I will build a little bump here to slide over rocks without damaging the transfer case pan
4. Modify the spare tire carrier so it swings down for easy access of the bed. It currently just sits in the receiver tubing.
5. Modify my old JK roof rack to fit over the bed. It needs to be narrowed and shortened. Having the rack over the bed will give me extra storage room, but lighter items will need to go on the rack to keep from making the Jeep top heavy.

Still lots of shop time in my future before we leave…

 

[cj2atruck]

I’ve been busy in the shop. Roof rack from my old JK has been heavily modified and installed above the roll bar. I really wanted it lower, but not possible unless I remove the roll bar, which isn’t an option. The rack weighs about 40 pounds, so I can probably add another 100 in gear without making the jeep act weird on side hills. I also installed my shovel on the passenger side and my ax on the drivers side…along with the Rotopax tanks that have been there for years.

IMG_3096 by Rick , on Flickr

I had an LED light bar on the second floor of the shop, so decided it might as well live on the 47 instead of taking up space on the shelf. I have a couple of small LED lights that I will install below the rack that point backwards so I have plenty of light all around my Jeep. We seem to end up coming out of trails in the dark, and all the extra light means nothing gets damaged for lack of light.

I put some work in on the spare tire carrier to make it fold down so I can open my tailgate. I originally built the spare tire mount stationary, but it was hard to get anything in and out of the bed, and the tire is too heavy to be lifting on an off all the time, so built a fold down system.

IMG_3097 by Rick , on Flickr

IMG_3098 by Rick , on Flickr

I have an extra 3x2 inch steel caster on bearings with a 1/4” U shaped frame that I am going to see if I can attach to the bottom. I have one for the Gladiator and just cut the 2” tubing at an angle and welded the frame on the tubing to help roll off of rocks instead of just bashing the rear bumper. Need to think about this a little and mock something up.

Puppies have a vet appointment today, so work in the shop is likely over.

Tomorrow, I am going to pull the overdrive, pull the intermediate gear and install the intermediate gear with the taper bearings to reduce the noise in the cab…as well as eliminate the needle bearing failure point. As long as I can push the pin out from the front, I can do this without pulling the transfer case. Fingers crossed…

I ordered insulation and will insulate and carpet the cab with Boat carpet to help with the noise. When I raised the engine, I think my transmission is now touching the tunnel cover, so I may be getting harmonic noise. Might need to modify the cover a little or lower the transmission.

 

[cj2atruck]

Well, bad news. I am running a Novak adapter for the SM420, and the edge of the adapter will not allow me to install the new intermediate gear with the taper bearings because the pin will hit the adapter. I will have to wait until I pull the Dana 18 to modify the edge of the adapter, just not interested in that project right now. Oh well…

I lowered the transfer case 1/2” and the harmonic resonance caused by the transmission against the bottom of the cab is gone, so a worthwhile test.

I took another test drive and noticed some driveline vibration, likely caused by the u-joints not being in sync on the rear driveline. There’s not a good place to check the transfer case angle, so I set the rear end pinion angle at just over 4 degrees…apparently, the jeep wasn’t happy. I reset the pinion angle to 3 degrees and the vibration is gone. Check that one off the list.

Net up, insulate and carpet the interior for a more pleasant ride for my wife. It will take a few days to removed the seats and battery, glue on the insulation and then glue the carpet onto the insulation. I’ll be taking pictures to share.

 

[cj2atruck]

I pulled the seats and battery out of the cab yesterday to get ready for insulation and carpet, and I used Frog Tape on everything I wanted to protect from glue. I originally thought I would make individual panels, but after more thought, I’m going to carpet over the 2x1 supports, as I think it will be easier. The only challenge is getting the carpet behind the roll cage legs without the glue grabbing the insulation, but I have a plan…

IMG_3100 by Rick , on Flickr

I should have carpet on all the walls by end of day Monday.

 

[cj2atruck]

I suspect most folks with old jeeps don’t have any interest in carpeting their jeep, but there might be some out there so I’ll post a few more pictures. The carpet and sound deadening help keep the drivetrain noise down and reduce harmonic resonance. I am using marine carpet instead of auto carpet, as it will perform better when it gets wet, and the adhesive is just spray on contact cement from 3M.

My wife has a 4x8 cutting table in her quilting studio that was repurposed for carpet cutting, helping make the cuts clean.

IMG_7321 by Rick , on Flickr

Once cut, the gluing began. Getting around the roll cage down tube was a pain, but I applied the contact cement in small sections to get the carpet installed in the back corners.

IMG_3104 by Rick, on Flickr

I glued the carpet on the walls, but I won’t glue the floor so it can be replaced. I’ll glue down the sound deadening mats, as those won’t need replacing. I will also cut some carpet to be used as floor mats and my wife will bind the edges to keep them from unraveling.

Now for the floor…

 

[cj2atruck]

Carpeting is almost finished. I laid down a lot of sound deadening sheets since my kit had more than I needed.

IMG_3105 by Rick , on Flickr

For the carpet, I started with trying to lay the carpet in one piece, but it wasn’t going to be possible unless I removed the soft top to get more room, and it still would have been a pain. So, I decided to lay the carpet in two pieces and seam it in the middle under the center console since no one will ever see that section. The seam was easy to cut by leaving those areas long and then trimming to fit together. I also glued a small section at the seam to ensure I didn’t have issues in the future, but it will come up easily if I need to replace the carpet in the future.

IMG_3108 by Rick , on Flickr

I still have a little trimming at the side walls to get the carpet to lay completely flat, and have a pucker on the passenger side front by the transmission tunnel that will require me to remove the plate, trim the carpet and reinstall the plate. The seat mount will also help hold the carpet in place. I still need to cut extra carpet for floor mats that my wife will edge band on one of her machines to try and keep as much dirt out of the jeep as possible.

I use a hot Philips screwdriver to melt holes for bolts, as this keeps the carpet from fraying. I have a lot of bolts to install that hold the diamond plate and rock rails in place, and the hot screwdriver makes a nice hole. It will also work well for the battery tray and seat mounting bolts.

Next up will be final trimming and getting the seats back in, but will first run the wires for the light bar and reverse lights on the rear rack since it will be easier to run the wires with the seats out of the jeep. I also bought Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks to help fine tune the ride, so need to get those installed before we can head south in about a week.

 

[cj2atruck]

Interior is back together. Before I installed the passenger seat, I installed a 750 watt inverter I’ve had laying around, and since the battery is hard to get to with jumper cables, I installed a 175 amp plug with 1/0 cable for my jumper cables. You can also see the switches below the center console for the heated seat…yes, I have heated seats in my 47. Wasn’t intentional, but the VW seats I used had them so just had to figure out the wiring. My wife loves them on cold days, and the new carpet and insulation should help keep the cab nice and toasty. My jeep has a great heater that puts out too much heat, so might try and use one of the vents to divert to some kind of defroster for the windshield…a project for another day.

IMG_3113 by Rick , on Flickr

With the back wall of the top still in place for the winter, the seats and center console are a huge pain to install and took the better part of a day…even with my wife helping with the drivers seat since it has an electric back rest so doesn’t fold flat.

IMG_3114 by Rick , on Flickr

IMG_3115 by Rick , on Flickr

I also added a 4th toggle switch on the dash for more lights…can’t have enough light when finishing a trail in the dark. I now have the front LED headlights, an LED light bar on the rack over the bed, rear facing LED lights under the rack and side facing LED lights as rock crawling lights. I have this same light layout on my Gladiator, as well as my now sold JK and it served me well when finishing a trail in the dark.

Today I will install the new Rancho 9000 shocks, an additional mount on the rack over the bed (if I rub a tree or rock on the Rubicon, I want the rack to stay put) and another test drive. Since I start to organize the storage boxes for the rack tomorrow, I also need to clean my shop, as it is a disaster since I haven’t stopped to tidy things up.

 

[givemethewillys]

I love the look of those vw seats; they look like they were meant to go in there. What did they come out of? I think you'll end up liking them.