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1968? Cj5 Slow Revival

ScottInAZ said:
Sweet looking CJ!!
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Thank you sir! She’s rough but I like the look. I’m mulling over what to do with it in the long run. I love the stock color seen in the engine bay, and it will need a ton of metal work. We’ll see.

Another carb rebuild is in the books. It was actually remarkably decent in there. Most of the cleaning was on the outside. A few passages were plugged, and the (whatever that mechanism that passes as an accelerator pump) had some pretty dry cracked rubber. We have good squirting action now. And the carb looks decent. It wasn’t without some drama though. One of the carb bolts broke off in the intake. So I got to employ the “weld a washer on without getting set in fire” trick. Spoiler alert, it worked. I looked through my stock to find carb studs but found none the correct length so I replaced a few not good bolts and ran with it. But those will get replaced. Eventually.
I also ordered some tune up stuff. Cap rotor plugs and wires. I’ll clean up the points but I’m not replacing the condenser. My experience is if you have an old one that’s functional, it’ll probably do so longer that the modern crap they’re selling.
I also ordered a voltage regulator. I had to disconnect the excite wire due to overcharging.
Here’s the only picture I thought to take before moving it out of the barn to bring in the Torino. The welder was set too hot but it worked. Oh that’s the new oil gauge copper line I ran to get the gauge working again.
IMG_6433.jpeg
 
IMG_6701.jpeg Wow time to update this thread. I did end up tuning the jeep up with new plugs and wires. The cap and rotor were too small if I recall? And Rockauto shipped a voltage regulator that was likely older than me, which I appreciated. So it fires up, runs smooth, and charges properly now. I’ve run it around the property a few times and am super happy with it.
I just changed the f100 rear wheels and will be doing the same in the front very soon. So I’ll have a full set of aluminum slots ready to go soon. Here’s the question. Refinished white steels or slots? The plan is something like a 235/75/15 probably bfg km3 or cooper stt pro for tires.
 
Slot wheels or cheap steel is my go to. Unless I find something I like. The 68 has Jackman's and the 66 has d slot wheels, still have the chrome slots in the shed.
 
Another honest CJ saved. Glad it's running. This project is looking Good!
I really want to get me a V6, one day.

Dave
 
Quick update. Not much has changed. I’m still putting the cj around the property from time to time. Still no brakes. I messed with them for a bit but the master cylinder hex broke off the lid so we’re getting into that soon.
In other news I Was addressing an exhaust donut leak. Well, there was no donut. Just this little guy. Am I seeing a cable operated exhaust brake here? It’s frozen but I’ll probably mess with freeing it up. In the mean time I installed an exhaust donut from my stash.
IMG_6823.jpeg
 
You need a flanged pipe to match to mate with a doughnut gasket.

flangedpipe.png

The heat riser starts out closed when the engine is cold.
The closed flap diverts exhaust gas from that bank of cylinders through the intake manifold to the other bank and out.
This warms the manifold to prevent fuel from condensing on the cold manifold.
A cold weatehr drivability feature.
 
As others have noted, that's the heat riser. It forces the exhaust from one side of the engine to pass through the intake manifold and out the other side. It heats the carb and intake runners for better atomization on engine startup. Once the engine comes to temp, the heat riser should be fully opened with a the bi-metal coil thatt's missing from yours. Just wire it open.

You can make your own flange with a greased 2 5/8" hitch ball and a press:
AP1GczM4hU0v43Feu_YlfkBzhHJcAs-S-PK3UFxw2zMSSNF9ZhLwy2carnnXrW8tzt9aHUx19CqnFb3-QFDnRI0I40dTmBPesO4QtaeCB5lP1EQ1Ixacm1Ml86YPkEixb5ZZXTk2lg6dnvw6f1PxxLyBMSn9VA=w1000


AP1GczO5BgYXCIbZwdsCmV4ybd0AhKYOOGuwS08xXUPybu8scD9_t5p2QjLUIjfQLKAw4L4Jd_qFz7vFg6FjPPhrk2UQtTckxVPCHWAN_tNRTngsev44ZGbVuMk4arq0yRCb7OilOJHvIOzADXHTHS6zZWqRGA=w1000
 
Thanks for the info guys, learn something new every day. The pipe was already flanged so I just installed a new donut.
On that note, if anyone wants that flap, it’s yours. Some pb blast and heat got it freed up and cycling smoothly.
 
bigjohn said:
Thanks for the info guys, learn something new every day. The pipe was already flanged so I just installed a new donut.
On that note, if anyone wants that flap, it’s yours. Some pb blast and heat got it freed up and cycling smoothly.
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I was going to ask if that heat riser was needed, since I installed the y-pipe on my Jeep without itn and it seems to fit fine without it. I think you answered my question though.
 
Usually you can't leave those out without making the pipe longer.
On some applications, the heat riser forms an adapter between the flat gasket on the manifold and the doughnut.
If the bimetal spring were gone, I would wire the flap open and put it back.
Not much value without the spring, other than taking up space.
No great loss unless you live in Fargo or such.
 
givemethewillys said:
I was going to ask if that heat riser was needed, since I installed the y-pipe on my Jeep without itn and it seems to fit fine without it. I think you answered my question though.
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Removing it and reassembling it seems to be working fine. There’s other exit leaks but the big one is fixed.
The brake part’s arrived so with it being a rainy weekend and waiting on parts for other projects, the jeep Is back in the barn. I ordered all of the brake hydraulic parts from Rockauto. So master, wheel cylinders, rubber hoses and a fresh spool of nicop.
The first issue I ran into was the tapered axle. I completely forgot these drums don’t just knock off. I tried the chain trick to no avail, so I ordered the otc puller. Moving on, I got the rear rubber hose replaced and the able hard lines off. Both of those fittings were stuck to the tube and no amount of heat and blaster worked. No big deal, I’ll make some new lines. All of the others so far have come off, again working them with heat and blaster at every fitting. I’d ordered wing front brake hoses so waiting for correct ones to show up as well.
Now I’m working on front brake cylinders, which is an adventure. The grease axle grease is hard, like plastic in some spots. So the bearings are hanging up hard on the spindle. This is a very very cheap project at this point so I cleaned the bearings as well as I could and repacked them. Had a hell of a time again getting the bearings broke free to spin but they are nice and smooth now. Before it hits the road I’ll replace those but for now I just want to be able to safely run around the property.
The other task was removing the remote brake booster and plumbing the brake line back to stock.
Yes I’m procrastinating the master cylinder.
Pictures to come.
 
I’m out of parts so on hold until Tuesdays shipment comes in.
On that note, quick rant. The front wheel cylinders in this jeep are the same. So I was one short from my Rockauto order. No big deal, called around hoping to not wait a week or more for it. Holy crap. Orielleys could get out, for $53. A single wheel cylinder. That’s what I payed for all 4! Well it showed up and was wrong. Napa has some in stock so went over there. $59 for that one. Absolute robbery. I understand Rockauto is a drop shipper, not brick and mortar store, but who can afford these prices? Grrrr.
Anyway the front drums are reinstalled. Both hubs were bad so disassembled, soaked in the parts washer, lubed and they’re very nice and smooth now.
Then the master cylinder actually went ok. It fought back a bit but I prevailed. After reassembly I greased the pedal pivot rod.
Last I got the rear brake lines built and installed. The drum ends are temporary of course until the hub puller shows and I can install the rear wheel cylinders. Then install the soon to arrive front hoses and she’ll be ready to bleed and leak check.
Oh, checked the rear diff oil while in the area and found two tags. First , 4.89 gears which I’d already figured out by counting rotations. The second tag read as such.
IMG_6932.jpeg IMG_6933.jpeg IMG_6934.jpeg IMG_6935.jpeg IMG_6936.jpeg IMG_6937.jpeg
 
You have an old-time privately owned parts store locally?

In the past, I have taken my parts list from RockAuto to my local store and asked if they would like to match those prices.
My store would do that.
Even if they could get close, you'd be ahead.

Sad - this store closed about a year ago.
Story is - the old guys that worked there were old and commuted from New Hampshire (common here) and did not want to keep up the commute.
They had both a shop and parts runners for local shops.
They also burned waste oil to heat their shop.
Not sure whther the story is correct, or they could not compete on price any more, or the EPA caught up with them.
Gone ... too bad.
 
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timgr said:
You have an old-time privately owned parts store locally?

In the past, I have taken my parts list from RockAuto to my local store and asked if they would like to match those prices.
My store would do that.
Even if they could get close, you'd be ahead.

Sad - this store closed about a year ago.
Story is - the old guys that worked there were old and commuted from New Hampshire (common here) and did not want to keep up the commute.
They had both a shop and parts runners for local shops.
They also burned waste oil to heat their shop.
Not sure whther the story is correct, or they could not compete on price any more, or the EPA caught up with them.
Gone ... too bad.
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We have one privately owned parts house in town but they’re closed on Sunday. I need to frequent them more though. I don’t know of their prices/markups have kept pace with the local chain stores, but I like the guys behind the counter.
 
The good news is the brakes work for the first time in a pile of years! The bad news is the 4 way block is leaking…. I have another ordered from Kaiser Willy’s. There was another unrelated issue though. When I initially put the jeep in the barn it was a non runner. It was badly flooding out. After pulling the carb I found a corner tore off the accelerator pump boot. I have one coming from Mike’s carb parts, but shipping is running longer. Hopefully she’s running again tomorrow.
 
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