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1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

Throw in the rest of the hack saw Roy. A real pain in the posterior when you actually need it and only have the blade. BTDT Get a simple one that comes apart easy for carry. I've never broken a TRE on the trail but bent tie rods have occurred on several occasions. A short chain and bottle jack will usually get those usable again. I welded up a ram cap with a fork on it to keep the chain in place.
 
And a dozen of the individual packets of Fast Orange or similar hand cleaner.

I have a little camping container of it but didn't realize there we small packets. Getting some. I agree on the hammer, but the big hammer doesn't fit as well. The claw hammer did successfully change a TJ U-joint in Moab a couple years back. I do have a compact hacksaw handle that was too long to fit in the old toolbox, but I do think I can fit it in the DJ.

Hard to say on the tie-rod. I've got a very thick wall one on the Jeep (that can still bend), but the spare old tie rod would probably package easier than a bottle jack and chain.
 
I have a little camping container of it but didn't realize there we small packets. Getting some. I agree on the hammer, but the big hammer doesn't fit as well. The claw hammer did successfully change a TJ U-joint in Moab a couple years back. I do have a compact hacksaw handle that was too long to fit in the old toolbox, but I do think I can fit it in the DJ.

Hard to say on the tie-rod. I've got a very thick wall one on the Jeep (that can still bend), but the spare old tie rod would probably package easier than a bottle jack and chain.
I typically just throw a pack of baby wipes in, its a soft package so it squeezes into the tool bag and no water needed for cleanup.
 
Another project that may or may not happen before the Rubicon.

I'm not a fan of open element air cleaners on Jeeps but under hood clearance is very limited on this thing. This is all that fits in the way of a conventional air cleaner in both height and diameter. It's so close to the hood that you can't even use a wing nut:
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With that in mind, I had already bought a Bronco air cleaner to solve the problem:
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However, it was going to be a big project. It's too short and hits the electric choke on the carburetor so that would need to be notched. And while it looks good from the top, the bottom is rusted out on both parts:
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The rusted out areas have compound curves and ridges and I've been really unmotivated to start that repair project.


But, I just found a decent price on a non-rusted out Bronco air cleaner that's also longer so it doesn't interfere with the choke on the Holley carb:
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This one should be pretty easy. For it to fit, I need a lower profile PCV valve and a half inch spacer. Then I need to fabricate a bracket to support the outer end from the exhaust manifold bolts.

If the parts arrive in time and I'm bored, I may get this cranked out before the Rubicon. If not, no big deal.
 
Did Another quick thing. I need to preface this with the fact that the Jeep will be getting 3-point belts in the future, but that's too big of a project to start before the Rubicon.

The Jeep had these clip-in 3" wide lap belts that are uncomfortable, a pain to adjust for different people, and a pain to latch up quickly:
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I had bought some regular lap belts to swap in, but the clip-in eye bolts are severely rusted in place. Two hours of heat and penetrating oil wasn't making much difference, so I gave up and ordered some clip-in belts from Seatbelt Planet:
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That was a very quick solution. They look great and are easy to use/adjust.

I also added some retractors to the outer belts to help with access to the storage bags:
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I've got some 3-point harnesses to put into it post Rubicon. That will probably require cutting the old anchors out and making new backing plates and everything from scratch. When I do that, I can also move the anchors so the rear tires don't hit them at full bump.
 
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Great trip list and input from the group. Checked it against mine and added a couple of items. Do you have tire deflators?

I do have a set I put at 12 PSI that I keep in the TJ. I haven't decided if I'm going to throw them in the DJ-3 or not. These tires are stiffer and I tend to run it closer to 8psi. I'm not sure it I feel like resetting the deflators. They are really handy though.
 
It's been a busy weekend. The buddy that's joining me on the trip came down over the weekend so we could dry run stuff.

This is everything packed in the Jeep.

It all fits with tools, spares, a couple tents, clothes, sleeping bags, camp stove, utensils, enough cooler space for food/beer,...etc. I'm honestly surprised:
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After packing it up we took it for a drive to town to see how it would do on the road. It did well. We stopped at the brewery for a beer while we were there:
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We swung by the grain truck scale on the way home and it measured out at 3940 lbs with two adults, tools, spares, camping gear, and a full tank of gas. Not light, but I figured it would be close to that. The Jeep is around 3150 with a full tank of gas but otherwise empty.

When we got home, we were messing around on one of the obstacles I have on the property and ran into a problem. When the Jeep was in an off-camber uphill turn to the left with the front locker on, a horrible popping sound was coming from the front drive axle area. It sounded REALLY BAD like the dog clutches in the locker we skipping or a hub was broken.

We took it back to the shop, pulled the hubs to check them, and pulled the diff cover to check the ARB. Nothing was wrong visually, and everything seemed to be working perfectly during testing with the front end jacked up in the shop.

I had an aha moment and thought to check the U-joint clearance to my home-made front skid plate and found this:
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The yoke was hitting the skid plate. That explains the violent popping noises and shudders.

The skid plate is close to the U-joint because the engine oil pan the skid plate protects is close to the U-joint. I've verified many times that it cleared when flexed out to "worst case" scenario. However, it turns out that the actual "worst case" scenario is fully loaded, axles locked, off camber, and turned full lock uphill. That really twists up the suspension and frame and shoves the front axle about 3/8" to the left.

Finding this, I let out a sigh of relief for two reasons: 1). My new front locker was not broken. 2). we found this before hitting the Rubicon.

It's an easy fix. We cut and welded a notch into the skid plate:
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This also required adding a 45 to the back of the brace that holds the skid plate:
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Now there is lots of room:
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It was getting late Saturday night at that point. We cooked dinner with the camp gear we packed into the Jeep to make sure we're not forgetting anything (a few more things did get added to the list). The steak and potatoes turned out great:
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This morning, we finished putting the Jeep back together, loaded all the camping gear back into it and went all over the property on severe sidehills, uphills, downhills, flexed out through ditches, ...etc:
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The front U-joint clearance issue is fixed. It definitely feels tippier on the sidehills when it's fully loaded, but it will handle some butt-clenching stuff.

The known issue of the rear tires rubbing on the seat belt bolts at full stuff was annoying, and as you can see in the picture above, the rear has a bit of a squat when loaded, so I decided to install some 1" longer shackles from the parts pile that came with the Jeep. It already has the same ones on the front. I have no idea what brand they are, but they seem decent
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That helped level the Jeep. It looks much better now:
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While the tires were off, I ground the protruding length of the seatbelt bolts off and rounded the edges of the square nuts:
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Then we flexed it out:
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The end result is good. The passenger tire no longer touches the seat belt bolt, and the driver side barely tickles it now.

At the end of this weekend, I think we're in pretty good shape. We've hand written a bunch of stuff on the list that I need to organize and then we'll finish getting that last little bits found or bought (if needed) and packed.
 
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Fireball, I had to clearance my engine skid in the same spot to keep it from hitting the yoke, and also added a little cutout on the transfer case side. Flexing in Moab showed the clearance seems to be sufficient.

IMG_3301 by Rick, on Flickr

We are running out of time to get all these little things addressed…
 
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