1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

[cj2atruck]

Nice work. I always hate routing the air line inside the diff, but I’ve always been able to make it work with some creative bending…

When I regeared my F550 motorhome, it had threaded collars in the rear axle for the carrier, so no shims. Of course, the Dana 60 up front was a pain, but worked out. Not sure why all housings aren’t made with threaded collars, as that only leaves pinion depth to shim…

 

[Fireball]

Nice work. I always hate routing the air line inside the diff, but I’ve always been able to make it work with some creative bending…

When I regeared my F550 motorhome, it had threaded collars in the rear axle for the carrier, so no shims. Of course, the Dana 60 up front was a pain, but worked out. Not sure why all housings aren’t made with threaded collars, as that only leaves pinion depth to shim…

Agreed. It's especially bad when when you need to remove pressed-on bearings to adjust the shim pack

My favorite is the 9" ford style. The pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. The pinion depth is easy to swap shims separate from the preload, and the carrier is set with nuts. So much easier.

 

[Fireball]

Good progress last night.

The cheap Amazon spreader just clears the leaf spring with the U-bolts and spring plate removed. The Dana 30 manual is very explicit about NOT spreading the case more than 0.015", so I used a dial indicator:

ARB installed for the last time with a pre-load shim added to the driver's side. I almost forgot the o-rings for the locker:

With caps torqued and the spreader removed, backlash is good. Drive and coast patterns look good. I'm calling it installed:

The air pipe is a pain to bend in limited space, but I eventually got it where it needed to go:

I hooked it up to the compressor and whoohoo! It locks with a satisfying CLUNK!

Temporary air line routing leaves something to be desired though:

Final routing will take some thought to keep it out of the crank pulley at full bump.

With everything checked out, it was time to install the Poison Spyder diff cover I found cheap on e-bay a while back:

Some TEN Factory goodies I bought a while ago at Darryl's recommendation:

They slip right in:

(The bungee cord is to hold the tie-rod out of the way of the diif while I'm working on it.)

I also have a bunch of these for the hubs:

To finish up from here, It's pretty easy tasks of running the air line, reassembling things, and adding oil. It should be running this weekend.

Boy, the work area is a disaster. I'll probably clean that up before continuing:

 

[warrpath4x4]

doesn't look like it will be a problem on yours but I've seen some people where they have to run the air line over the ring gear, they've tapped a screw hole inside the diff and used a P-clamp to help hold it in place from vibration

 

[Militarymetal]

On my 67, I cut the airline with the crank pulley. It can be difficult to keep it out of harm’s way.

 

[Rozcoking23]

Good progress last night.

The cheap Amazon spreader just clears the leaf spring with the U-bolts and spring plate removed. The Dana 30 manual is very explicit about NOT spreading the case more than 0.015", so I used a dial indicator:

ARB installed for the last time with a pre-load shim added to the driver's side. I almost forgot the o-rings for the locker:

With caps torqued and the spreader removed, backlash is good. Drive and coast patterns look good. I'm calling it installed:

The air pipe is a pain to bend in limited space, but I eventually got it where it needed to go:

I hooked it up to the compressor and whoohoo! It locks with a satisfying CLUNK!

Temporary air line routing leaves something to be desired though:

Final routing will take some thought to keep it out of the crank pulley at full bump.

With everything checked out, it was time to install the Poison Spyder diff cover I found cheap on e-bay a while back:

Some TEN Factory goodies I bought a while ago at Darryl's recommendation:

They slip right in:

(The bungee cord is to hold the tie-rod out of the way of the diif while I'm working on it.)

I also have a bunch of these for the hubs:

To finish up from here, It's pretty easy tasks of running the air line, reassembling things, and adding oil. It should be running this weekend.

Boy, the work area is a disaster. I'll probably clean that up before continuing:

Watch your hub bolts closely, I had issues 2 years in a row with mine loosening and breaking, (1 last year and 3 this year).

 

[Jw60]

Watch your hub bolts closely, I had issues 2 years in a row with mine loosening and breaking, (1 last year and 3 this year).

View attachment 105128

The ARP bolts ron has are supposed to have the correct sholder and lengths. You should not run washers in this location.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

I keep waiting for someone to take Toyota’s lead and use studs, then ream the hubs to accept conical washers.

 

[Jw60]

I keep waiting for someone to take Toyota’s lead and use studs, then ream the hubs to accept conical washers.

So the taper is in the lock-out hub or the wheel hub? I need a picture.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

So the taper is in the lock-out hub or the wheel hub? I need a picture.

The taper is in the lockout. The washers sit proud and hold the pressure when assembled.

The full float axle on my old ford dump body had the same setup.

 

[duffer]

Watch your hub bolts closely, I had issues 2 years in a row with mine loosening and breaking, (1 last year and 3 this year).

View attachment 105128

So how exactly were those installed? Threads completely pulled on three of the hub bores to 3/4" depth? Only the second from left and far right approximate what should have been installed and it would appear that three of those bores need LONG helicoils. Like Roy, I've had 100% success using ARP's 8740 bolts of the proper length which are torqued to 45 ft-lbs. That said, if the wheel hub bore threads are compromised, you may just strip the rest of them with those bolts. Probably "new" wheel hub time.

 

[Jw60]

The taper is in the lockout. The washers sit proud and hold the pressure when assembled.

The full float axle on my old ford dump body had the same setup.

Cool, I'll need to look into it when the time comes. (I have everything but shafts)

 

[Fireball]

Watch your hub bolts closely, I had issues 2 years in a row with mine loosening and breaking, (1 last year and 3 this year).

View attachment 105128

I've been running Duffer's ARB 642-1750 bolts on the '71 for 6 years and 7000 miles now with no issues. I don't use lock washers, just the included washers to clear the radius under the bolt head. They have never loosened up.

And I ALWAYS leave the hubs on and it's probably in 4wd 20% of the of the time.

They have a nice shoulder area that protrudes into the end of the hub, and the threads go all the way into the bottom of the hub holes. Many thanks to John for his research in finding them.

 

[Fireball]

Didn't make as much progress as hoped last night. Things kept slowing me down.

The air hose is ran. It's zip tied to the passenger side brake line. I'll need to verify it's OK at full flex both directions, but I think it will be:

From there, it runs up along the power steering lines to the compressor:

My first slow down was the spindles. The new TEN Factory outer splines have a slightly larger OD than the stock axles and wouldn't fit through the end of the spindles. The spindles have a slightly smaller ID in the threaded area at the outer end. I had to open them up with a grinding wheel. There is a rag stuffed in there to keep grit out of the spindle bearing:

With that done, I assembled the passenger side only to find the bottoms of the hub bolt holes are filled with silicon so the full length ARP bolts couldn't thread all the way in:

This started the very slow and tedious process of picking it all out with a dental pick:

Then I ran a tap through the holes to finish the cleanup:

Finally, the passenger side is done with the above mentioned ARP bolts. Yes the ARP included washers hang over the sides of the hub, but you can still get the wheels on. I swapped in a Warn premium hub to replace the Selecto the Jeep came with:

Then it was midnight so the other has to wait. I still need to clean all of the silicon out of the bolt holes on that side, but I should have it running again early this weekend.

 

[homersdog]

Those layers of old RTV are like tree rings for determining age!

 

[Fireball]

Those layers of old RTV are like tree rings for determining age!

Seriously!

 

[Renegade ll]

Didn't make as much progress as hoped last night. Things kept slowing me down.

The air hose is ran. It's zip tied to the passenger side brake line. I'll need to verify it's OK at full flex both directions, but I think it will be:

From there, it runs up along the power steering lines to the compressor:

My first slow down was the spindles. The new TEN Factory outer splines have a slightly larger OD than the stock axles and wouldn't fit through the end of the spindles. The spindles have a slightly smaller ID in the threaded area at the outer end. I had to open them up with a grinding wheel. There is a rag stuffed in there to keep grit out of the spindle bearing:

With that done, I assembled the passenger side only to find the bottoms of the hub bolt holes are filled with silicon so the full length ARP bolts couldn't thread all the way in:

This started the very slow and tedious process of picking it all out with a dental pick:

Then I ran a tap through the holes to finish the cleanup:

Finally, the passenger side is done with the above mentioned ARP bolts. Yes the ARP included washers hang over the sides of the hub, but you can still get the wheels on. I swapped in a Warn premium hub to replace the Selecto the Jeep came with:

Then it was midnight so the other has to wait. I still need to clean all of the silicon out of the bolt holes on that side, but I should have it running again early this weekend.

Roy I have been working on my Dana 30. Teardown and putting new stuff in it. I have had my share of failures and mistakes to set me back.

 

[Fireball]

Roy I have been working on my Dana 30. Teardown and putting new stuff in it. I have had my share of failures and mistakes to set me back.

It's definitely a learning experience. That last time I was in an axle was 20 years ago! I'm really hoping this thing works when it's all back together.

Since I'm not regearing, I don't need to worry about pinion depth. That makes it much easier.

I have found this Dana 30 manual to be very helpful: http://www.billavista.com/tech/PDF_Index/files/Axles and Gears/Dana Spicer/5304-2 Service Manual Model 30 Front & Rear Carrier Type.pdf

 

[3b a runnin]

I keep waiting for someone to take Toyota’s lead and use studs, then ream the hubs to accept conical washers.

I have ran and worked on many pieces of equipment with this design. It works very well.

 

[homersdog]

It's definitely a learning experience. That last time I was in an axle was 20 years ago! I'm really hoping this thing works when it's all back together.

Since I'm not regearing, I don't need to worry about pinion depth. That makes it much easier.

I have found this Dana 30 manual to be very helpful: http://www.billavista.com/tech/PDF_Index/files/Axles and Gears/Dana Spicer/5304-2 Service Manual Model 30 Front & Rear Carrier Type.pdf

Lots of interesting articles on that site, thanks for posting it!