This would be the most economical solution. Add a pressure guage or
cut the tip of the plug short so the connection isn't under pressure. Add a sewer cap lanyard with a small screw.
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1963 Us Navy Dj-3a
- Thread starter Fireball
- Start date
This would be the most economical solution. Add a pressure guage or
cut the tip of the plug short so the connection isn't under pressure. Add a sewer cap lanyard with a small screw.
Renegade ll
Julius Vatalaro
Great job Roy. That is one rock crawler jeep.
I like that idea, and I think I have a few extra fittings around here.
Did some random stuff last night.
Bought an X-bull remote control setup for the winch. The transmitter is small enough to tuck in between the solenoids inside the 8274 controller box:
It comes with two of these controllers. They seem to work well. I'll check the range when I'm outside the shop one of these days:
Now that I have a winch and onboard air, I need to start carting some stuff around. This jeep has no storage compartments whatsoever, so I bought a bunch of canvas bags I can slide under the seats.
Here's the current stuff that goes in the Jeep permanently:
It will only grow from there. Like I need a snatch block, maybe a winch extension....
I crammed things into backs with some sort of logical grouping:
And jammed them under the seat. The bungie cord is there to keep it from sliding forward for now, but I'll make some sort of thumb-screw clamp to hold things in place:
These smaller ones outside the seats are nice for easy access to things:
The intake is leaking oil at this corner behind the distributor, so I cleaned it up with brake clean and scrub brush., Then I smeared some "Right Stuff" on it. We'll see if it holds. And yes, I know the intake manifold ear is broken, but it's not leaking water, so it's better to let sleeping dogs lie:
Bought an X-bull remote control setup for the winch. The transmitter is small enough to tuck in between the solenoids inside the 8274 controller box:
It comes with two of these controllers. They seem to work well. I'll check the range when I'm outside the shop one of these days:
Now that I have a winch and onboard air, I need to start carting some stuff around. This jeep has no storage compartments whatsoever, so I bought a bunch of canvas bags I can slide under the seats.
Here's the current stuff that goes in the Jeep permanently:
- Remote winch controllers
- Spare fuses
- Soft shackles
- Winch hook
- Wired winch controller
- Tree saver
- D-rings
- Externally replaceable valve stems
- 0-30 PSI tire guage
- Air hose
- Tire plug kit
It will only grow from there. Like I need a snatch block, maybe a winch extension....
I crammed things into backs with some sort of logical grouping:
And jammed them under the seat. The bungie cord is there to keep it from sliding forward for now, but I'll make some sort of thumb-screw clamp to hold things in place:
These smaller ones outside the seats are nice for easy access to things:
The intake is leaking oil at this corner behind the distributor, so I cleaned it up with brake clean and scrub brush., Then I smeared some "Right Stuff" on it. We'll see if it holds. And yes, I know the intake manifold ear is broken, but it's not leaking water, so it's better to let sleeping dogs lie:
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duffer
Rodent Power, Bozeman, Montana
I use Parker hydraulic quick connect caps and have yet to lose one. The one on the butt of the B
I'm in the process of putting the same on the TJ.
cj2atruck
Member
100% agree! I would try and fix the exact same way…The intake is leaking oil at this corner behind the distributor, so I cleaned it up with brake clean and scrub brush., Then I smeared some "Right Stuff" on it. We'll see if it holds. And yes, I know the intake manifold ear is broken, but it's not leaking water, so it's better to let sleeping dogs lie:
I dumped some of this snake oil in the engine to see if it helps the oil leaks at all and then went out for a drive. It's probably got a rope seal so this won't make any difference:
Nope, still drippy:
Still getting oil up front too. It's dry where I sealed it, so I'm going to pull the distributor and coil to get better access to seal the rest of it and also check the distributor o-ring:
Another thing that's been on the list is the fuel filler tube being loose. The original bracket is missing, so it's being held into place by the rubber hose to the tank and the fact that the cap doesn't fit through the body:
Scrap metal to the rescue:
With a little work, it looks like this:
And installed. The old clamp down lower on the pipe was covered with undercoating, so I just let it be and used a new clamp:
Now there is a gap to the body at the cap and the pipe is quite firm:
Nope, still drippy:
Still getting oil up front too. It's dry where I sealed it, so I'm going to pull the distributor and coil to get better access to seal the rest of it and also check the distributor o-ring:
Another thing that's been on the list is the fuel filler tube being loose. The original bracket is missing, so it's being held into place by the rubber hose to the tank and the fact that the cap doesn't fit through the body:
Scrap metal to the rescue:
With a little work, it looks like this:
And installed. The old clamp down lower on the pipe was covered with undercoating, so I just let it be and used a new clamp:
Now there is a gap to the body at the cap and the pipe is quite firm:
I should also note on the dripping oil that it seems to happen under higher engine speeds and loads when driving out on the road. It doesn't really leak when driving around the trails on the property.
That could be related to blowby, but I did verify that the PCV is working and the the breather cap is flowing well. Neither is saturated with oil. This would say it's slinging oil, not crankcase pressure that's causing my issues. I've got valve cover gaskets, an oil pan gasket, and a rear main seal coming. I'll start at the top and see if the rear main is still leaking. Then I'll tackle that if I need to.
It's also running a bit rich at highway cruise so I'm going to drop the jet size in the carb.
I'll probably start on the front locker this weekend too.
That could be related to blowby, but I did verify that the PCV is working and the the breather cap is flowing well. Neither is saturated with oil. This would say it's slinging oil, not crankcase pressure that's causing my issues. I've got valve cover gaskets, an oil pan gasket, and a rear main seal coming. I'll start at the top and see if the rear main is still leaking. Then I'll tackle that if I need to.
It's also running a bit rich at highway cruise so I'm going to drop the jet size in the carb.
I'll probably start on the front locker this weekend too.
cj2atruck
Member
Dude, you are a machine. You are knocking projects out fast!
Today, I noticed that the bracket on the bottom of the radiator has come unsoldered from the bottom tank, so now I need to pull the radiator and solder the side mount back to the bottom tank. At the same time I’ll remove the electric fan from being mounted to the front of the radiator and build a separate mount so it doesn’t cause a leak on the radiator. This project will probably take me 1-2 days.
Sometimes it seems the projects are never ending to make sure our Jeeps are ready for Moab and the Rubicon…
I really enjoy your posts…
Today, I noticed that the bracket on the bottom of the radiator has come unsoldered from the bottom tank, so now I need to pull the radiator and solder the side mount back to the bottom tank. At the same time I’ll remove the electric fan from being mounted to the front of the radiator and build a separate mount so it doesn’t cause a leak on the radiator. This project will probably take me 1-2 days.
Sometimes it seems the projects are never ending to make sure our Jeeps are ready for Moab and the Rubicon…
I really enjoy your posts…
Good luck with all that. Freshly machined engine and mine drips at speed too. 3 rear mains and still drips.
I have a theory about crank splash and engine slope. I have found that running about a half quart low seems to keep it to a minimum. Ymmv...
At least I'm not alone! If I keep driving it on the road, it'll be a half quart low in no time.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Don’t fix all the leaks, you’ll make the rest of us feel out of place, me anywayI dumped some of this snake oil in the engine to see if it helps the oil leaks at all and then went out for a drive. It's probably got a rope seal so this won't make any difference:
Nope, still drippy:
Still getting oil up front too. It's dry where I sealed it, so I'm going to pull the distributor and coil to get better access to seal the rest of it and also check the distributor o-ring:
Another thing that's been on the list is the fuel filler tube being loose. The original bracket is missing, so it's being held into place by the rubber hose to the tank and the fact that the cap doesn't fit through the body:
Scrap metal to the rescue:
With a little work, it looks like this:
And installed. The old clamp down lower on the pipe was covered with undercoating, so I just let it be and used a new clamp:
Now there is a gap to the body at the cap and the pipe is quite firm:
I had a little time last night and pulled the distributor and coil off the front of the engine for access. It seems dry where I globbed "The Right Stuff" on the driver's side, but there is still oil in the low spot there. It doesn't seem to be coming from the distributor base:
Maybe is was residual from before that flowed into that low spot while driving? Regardless, I scrubbed everything with brake cleaner and globbed up the entire front of the intake manifold and one spot on the front cover that could have possibly been leaking and put it all back together. A "repair" worthy of any good trailer park mechanic:
Also, as per nickmil's suggestion, I found an air fitting and capped it for a more permanent plug for the air compressor hose coupler:
Maybe is was residual from before that flowed into that low spot while driving? Regardless, I scrubbed everything with brake cleaner and globbed up the entire front of the intake manifold and one spot on the front cover that could have possibly been leaking and put it all back together. A "repair" worthy of any good trailer park mechanic:
Also, as per nickmil's suggestion, I found an air fitting and capped it for a more permanent plug for the air compressor hose coupler:
Before taking it for a drive to test the new glop on the front of the manifold, I decide to change the carb jets to lean it out some.
I hate that you have to dump all the fuel to change the Jets on a Holley. It's so much tidier with the Edelbrock on the '71. I used this method to minimize the mess:
That worked pretty well. Most of the gas ended up in the container with a little dampness on the manifold that evaporated quickly:
I bough a whole bunch of Jets in the size range a while back. The carb came with 51s, so I went down to 49s:
I know a lot of people on the forum like carburetors, but I'd really rather be tuning all this with a laptop. EFI is such a huge step over carburetors.
Then it was off for a test drive. And a return to total failure. It is still leaking oil and it's still running rich.
It seems like it's coming from the front cover to block gasket:
I cleaned it and added some more goop there. I'll also pull the distributor hold-down bolt and add some thread sealer to that.
It's still running rich. The jets didn't make as much difference as I thought they would, so I might change the power valve back down to 8.5 form the 10.5 that's in it.
But, I can't test drive it for a bit because I blew apart the front axle. It's locker time:
Out with this:
I used the trick of putting a wrench on a ring gear bolt and turning the pinion to get the carrier out. I'll got a spreader on order to put it back together with proper pre-load. It's supposed to show up tomorrow. I'll need to remove the U-bolts/plate on the passenger side to clear the spreader.
Tonight I'll start working on the switch and swap with this stuff. I can get the pattern and backlash set without the spreader:
And just for fun, here's the size difference of a D30, D44, D60:
I hate that you have to dump all the fuel to change the Jets on a Holley. It's so much tidier with the Edelbrock on the '71. I used this method to minimize the mess:
That worked pretty well. Most of the gas ended up in the container with a little dampness on the manifold that evaporated quickly:
I bough a whole bunch of Jets in the size range a while back. The carb came with 51s, so I went down to 49s:
I know a lot of people on the forum like carburetors, but I'd really rather be tuning all this with a laptop. EFI is such a huge step over carburetors.
Then it was off for a test drive. And a return to total failure. It is still leaking oil and it's still running rich.
It seems like it's coming from the front cover to block gasket:
I cleaned it and added some more goop there. I'll also pull the distributor hold-down bolt and add some thread sealer to that.
It's still running rich. The jets didn't make as much difference as I thought they would, so I might change the power valve back down to 8.5 form the 10.5 that's in it.
But, I can't test drive it for a bit because I blew apart the front axle. It's locker time:
Out with this:
I used the trick of putting a wrench on a ring gear bolt and turning the pinion to get the carrier out. I'll got a spreader on order to put it back together with proper pre-load. It's supposed to show up tomorrow. I'll need to remove the U-bolts/plate on the passenger side to clear the spreader.
Tonight I'll start working on the switch and swap with this stuff. I can get the pattern and backlash set without the spreader:
And just for fun, here's the size difference of a D30, D44, D60:
Made a little locker progress last night.
I have one of those Vevor bearing pullers, but the shape of the D30 carrier on the ring gear side would have had the puller pulling on the cage and not the race. Instead I dug out the puller arms I made 20 years ago when I was rebuilding some D44s:
They have back braces and a bunch of welded up thickness on the hooks themselves. I immediately threw them in some oil after welding for a redneck heat treat.
Worked great. Old shims measures out at 0.049":
Ring gear attached and torqued. New bearing and 0.049" worth of new shims pressed onto the ARB. Hopefully this will be close:
I had to get creative to get the other bearing pressed on since the end of the carrier protrudes about 1/2" through it. Luckily, a 1 3/4" roll bar clamp had the right ID to fit over the end of the carrier and press directly on the bearing race. Other various scrap metal was used to get the height I needed in the press:
The final assembly. One nice thing about this is that the shims on this end can be swapped without a press. As long as the baseline on the other side is good, it will be easy to set up:
However, I can't fit it until I drill a hole in the driver's side bearing cap for the air line. Might as well drill the housing for the external air fitting while I'm at it. That's tonight's project.
I have one of those Vevor bearing pullers, but the shape of the D30 carrier on the ring gear side would have had the puller pulling on the cage and not the race. Instead I dug out the puller arms I made 20 years ago when I was rebuilding some D44s:
They have back braces and a bunch of welded up thickness on the hooks themselves. I immediately threw them in some oil after welding for a redneck heat treat.
Worked great. Old shims measures out at 0.049":
Ring gear attached and torqued. New bearing and 0.049" worth of new shims pressed onto the ARB. Hopefully this will be close:
I had to get creative to get the other bearing pressed on since the end of the carrier protrudes about 1/2" through it. Luckily, a 1 3/4" roll bar clamp had the right ID to fit over the end of the carrier and press directly on the bearing race. Other various scrap metal was used to get the height I needed in the press:
The final assembly. One nice thing about this is that the shims on this end can be swapped without a press. As long as the baseline on the other side is good, it will be easy to set up:
However, I can't fit it until I drill a hole in the driver's side bearing cap for the air line. Might as well drill the housing for the external air fitting while I'm at it. That's tonight's project.
cj2atruck
Member
Nice! I’ve tried several bearing pullers on the carrier and never been happy with any of them, so I just cut the outside of the bearing off, score the inside race with a cutoff wheel and hit the score with an impact gun with chisel bit. It works, but not elegant…. It also means I have to make a sacrificial bearing that slips on and off easily for setup, but at this point, I have several laying around, so no big deal.
I like your solution better than mine…
I like your solution better than mine…
Made some incremental progress on the locker last night.
Hole drilled in the driver's side cap for the air line:
All together for the first fitting. Shimmed to no end-play:
There is a tiny amount of backlash by feel and the patterns look decent.
Drive side:
Coast side:
I'm planning on putting the 0.015" preload shims on the driver's side, we'll see what that does for the pattern and backlash. I'll dig out the dial indicator to actually measure the backlash when I do that.
That's project for tomorrow night though. I need to pull the U-bolts and spring plate on the passenger side so I can fit the spreader. I could probably do it with a dead-blow instead of the spreader, but I'm worried about getting the orientation of the air pipe perfect so it fits through the hole in the cap. If I pound the carrier in, that will be impossible to rotate for alignment.
I did get the fitting into the housing last night though.
The was just no room for a drill. With a combination of a bottle jack pushing the axle down, my short impact driver, and a shortish step bit, I just cleared the crank pulley enough to get the hole started:
Tapping with 1/4" NPT:
Fitting installed. This location should be good:
Hole drilled in the driver's side cap for the air line:
All together for the first fitting. Shimmed to no end-play:
There is a tiny amount of backlash by feel and the patterns look decent.
Drive side:
Coast side:
I'm planning on putting the 0.015" preload shims on the driver's side, we'll see what that does for the pattern and backlash. I'll dig out the dial indicator to actually measure the backlash when I do that.
That's project for tomorrow night though. I need to pull the U-bolts and spring plate on the passenger side so I can fit the spreader. I could probably do it with a dead-blow instead of the spreader, but I'm worried about getting the orientation of the air pipe perfect so it fits through the hole in the cap. If I pound the carrier in, that will be impossible to rotate for alignment.
I did get the fitting into the housing last night though.
The was just no room for a drill. With a combination of a bottle jack pushing the axle down, my short impact driver, and a shortish step bit, I just cleared the crank pulley enough to get the hole started:
Tapping with 1/4" NPT:
Fitting installed. This location should be good: