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Bringing A 69 Commando Back To Life

It looks like both Jeepsters have the mono-leaf spring. I’ve had a couple Jeepsters many years ago, and like the ride quality of the mono-leaf springs as compared to the 6 or 7 leaf rear springs. At least you have a nice source of parts!
When swapping the T86 3 speed in, did you install a pilot bushing/bearing in the back of the crankshaft for the manual trans? The TH 400 torque converter centers in the crank behind where the pilot goes.
-Donny
 
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You have more knowledge about this than I do,
I do not have the slightest idea of the ratio. I’m going to pop in pinion seals and drive it , I will leave it alone if it has a reasonable drivability to it. Looked up and one possibly is a 5.13 that would be a bit of a low range for our normal driving.
Post what the tag reads that is bolted to the rear cover. It should be the axle ratio.
 
It’s what came up when I googled it, if I remember correctly. But never went any deeper into it. One set on the donor vehicle is good, the other one I would have to rebuild the rear if I was to use it. The good set has flanged axles on the rear and open knuckles on the front. I would most likely use them if I needed.
Some of these C-101 Jeepsters came with a flanged rear axle, like 1970ish and 1971. The open front axle was only used in the '72-73 C-104 "bullnose" Jeepster with AMC engines. If you have a C-101 with an open front axle, I'd guess it's the yellow abandoned project, and the previous owner already updated the axles.

Do you want to build more than one vehicle from these parts? If not, to me it seems like a mistake not to use the more modern open/flanged axles now. The 30 you are using was undersized in its original application, and often replaced with a 44. And you have a flanged 44 on hand, which is an additional significant step up from the nutted/tapered 44. What do you mean, rebuild the axles? If it's just brakes and seals, that does not seem like rebuilding.

Plus the open axle (and maybe your flanged axle) came with bigger brakes; 11"x2" Bendix drum brakes versus the 10"x2" Wagner brakes of the C-101. Another big upgrade, both in terms of stopping power, and parts availability/price. The Bendix brakes were used in millions of Ford light trucks, plus several other vehicles including Jeeps.

Can you point to the internet article that says 5.13? That's not a ratio that Jeep ever offered, AFAIK. Plus it's super-deep for a Jeepster. These Jeeps were meant to be comfortable on the highway.
 
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It looks like both Jeepsters have the mono-leaf spring. I’ve had a couple Jeepsters many years ago, and like the ride quality of the mono-leaf springs as compared to the 6 or 7 leaf rear springs. At least you have a nice source of parts! ...
-Donny
Back in the day, my boss at the dealership ran a team of famous yellow glass-bodied Jeepsters for Baja racing. These all used the single-leaf spring you are referring to Donny. I asked about this, and the answer was "rides very nice." Not a problem for these cars, though they had a pair of 3-foot long racing shocks at each wheel on towers that extended into the body so the suspension was not otherwise stock. Lots of extra steel welded in too.

I expect the wide leaf and outboard mounting help control body roll, allowing the soft ride.
 
Post what the tag reads that is bolted to the rear cover. It should be the axle ratio.

Will do, don't remember seeing a tag, but haven't noticed it if it has. As soon as we get power back on (shop is dead) House is running off of a generator.

Some of these C-101 Jeepsters came with a flanged rear axle, like 1970ish and 1971. The open front axle was only used in the '72-73 C-104 "bullnose" Jeepster with AMC engines. If you have a C-101 with an open front axle, I'd guess it's the yellow abandoned project, and the previous owner already updated the axles.
Do you want to build more than one vehicle from these parts? If not, to me it seems like a mistake not to use the more modern open/flanged axles now. The 30 you are using was undersized in its original application, and often replaced with a 44. And you have a flanged 44 on hand, which is an additional significant step up from the nutted/tapered 44. What do you mean, rebuild the axles? If it's just brakes and seals, that does not seem like rebuilding.
Plus the open axle (and maybe your flanged axle) came with bigger brakes; 11"x2" Bendix drum brakes versus the 10"x2" Wagner brakes of the C-101. Another big upgrade, both in terms of stopping power, and parts availability/price. The Bendix brakes were used in millions of Ford light trucks, plus several other vehicles including Jeeps.
Can you point to the internet article that says 5.13? That's not a ratio that Jeep ever offered, AFAIK. Plus, it's super-deep for a Jeepster. These Jeeps were meant to be comfortable on the highway.

Thats not a bad idea of using the flanged 44 that I have, plus it has the open joints on the front as well, both are in the yellow basket case one i picked up.
The one rear diff that came off of the black one would need bearings at the least, as loose as the pinion is, it most likely would also need gears, that's what I meant when I said rebuild the axle.
both axles do have the 11-inch brakes as well.

It looks like both Jeepsters have the mono-leaf spring. I’ve had a couple Jeepsters many years ago, and like the ride quality of the mono-leaf springs as compared to the 6 or 7 leaf rear springs. At least you have a nice source of parts!
When swapping the T86 3 speed in, did you install a pilot bushing/bearing in the back of the crankshaft for the manual trans? The TH 400 torque converter centers in the crank behind where the pilot goes.
-Donny
it's a borg warner t14 3 speed transmission that I installed; I did remember to install a pilot bearing. Would like to find a 4 speed, but that's a little further down the road.


Right now, we have had no electricity for 16 hrs. because of what was left of the hurricane as it blew though. They are saying it may take a few days before it is back on, but we are blessed to have a generator.
It doesn't run everything in the house, but enough to get by until the power company get to us. We are on a very long list.
Only one tree down, it only damaged our fence around our pool.
It also happens to be the exact same place the last tree went down during a storm two years ago. So, I have to replace the same section of the fence...... again.
Hopfully be back on the Commando next week.
 
After 4 days, we have power. Luckily, we were missed by the truly bad stuff that hit just a few miles north of us. Have family and friends in all of the affected area so might be helping where I'm needed.
I did manage to work on the commando a little in the past couple of days.
I do believe it has a 3.31 rear gear ratio, according to the tag. (I finely did look)
I replaced both pinion seals, redid the half of the front brakes will finish it tomorrow.
Did get the locking hub working again by cleaning it out, adding a little grease and straightening out the pins on the inside.
We did a quick color on one wheel; wife wasn't sure about an off-white vs a white. So, a little bit of a rattle can later, we have an off white so she can better visualize it.
Final color will depend on final color she picks. She is considering a blue/gray, metallic blue (OE) color, metallic bronze, metallic emerald, green.
IMG_9097.jpeg IMG_9103.jpeg IMG_9104.jpeg IMG_9106.jpeg IMG_9107.jpeg
 
I twisted my back so i had to take a few weeks to get it sorted, still not 100% but good enough to get some stuff done. I had been racking my brain on which way to proceed> Cut at the rockers and weld the new tub to the solid part of the old one or use the entire new tub and modify what is needed to use the 69-front clip. I was digging around and contemplating which road to take when I spotted a faint line on the frame. Started digging into it and sure enough it was a small crack. Its right above the rear perch of the RF leaf spring. That made me decide to remove the rest of the OE tub and use the newer one.
this also ment i needed a way of doing it, so a little shopping on marketplace for a gantry.


IMG_9300.jpeg IMG_9301.jpeg IMG_9302.jpeg IMG_9303.jpeg IMG_9304.jpeg IMG_9305.jpeg IMG_9306.jpeg IMG_9307.jpeg IMG_9309.jpeg View attachment 96396 IMG_9300.jpeg IMG_9301.jpeg IMG_9302.jpeg IMG_9303.jpeg IMG_9304.jpeg IMG_9305.jpeg IMG_9306.jpeg IMG_9307.jpeg IMG_9309.jpeg View attachment 96396 IMG_9300.jpeg
 
Not sure it was mentioned, maybe I missed it, but it appears you have an offset rear axle in there resulting in that sharp driveline angle with the Dana 20. That flanged rear that Tim was referring to would also take care of that since I'm guessing it has a centered diff.
 
First off, thank you for taking the time and effort to bring one of these back to life. Sorry but I did not read all of the entries in your thread but have you discovered the jeepstercommandoclub.com forum? Tons of info on there and some extremely knowledgeable members that are more than willing to assist. There is also a FB page where most member are, the ones on the forum don't use FB (that includes me). As for parts I saw parts dude 4X4 was mentioned but for a ton of body panels try thejeepsterman.com, he is quickly becoming a go to source for all things old Jeep.

Good luck and keep up the great work!
 
First off, thank you for taking the time and effort to bring one of these back to life. Sorry but I did not read all of the entries in your thread but have you discovered the jeepstercommandoclub.com forum? Tons of info on there and some extremely knowledgeable members that are more than willing to assist. There is also a FB page where most member are, the ones on the forum don't use FB (that includes me). As for parts I saw parts dude 4X4 was mentioned but for a ton of body panels try thejeepsterman.com, he is quickly becoming a go to source for all things old Jeep.

Good luck and keep up the great work!
I will look into the jeepstercommandoclub.com forum, can't remember if I have or not.
I have already used thejeepsterman as well as others, and all of them have been very helpful, and I always need help.....
 
Got a little more done.
Installed fuel pump, shocks and a few other items. About to cover up the chassis and start with the body work.
Still have to order a fuel tank kit and change it over to HEI to get rid of the points before its done.
Not going to worry about electrical until I take the dash apart, then I will decide if I rewire it myself or get a kit.
I also need to get my 62 Studebaker GT in to knock out a few items on it, not to mention cleaning out a spot for the 64 Studebaker commander that my f-I-L gave me.
he is 84 and just can't drive it anymore, I restored it for him years ago, and he has driven it about every two weeks since. IMG_9360.jpeg IMG_9385.jpeg IMG_9354.jpeg
I really want the OE cluster to work. somIMG_9360.jpeg IMG_9385.jpeg IMG_9354.jpeg
 
First off, thank you for taking the time and effort to bring one of these back to life. Sorry but I did not read all of the entries in your thread but have you discovered the jeepstercommandoclub.com forum? Tons of info on there and some extremely knowledgeable members that are more than willing to assist. There is also a FB page where most member are, the ones on the forum don't use FB (that includes me). As for parts I saw parts dude 4X4 was mentioned but for a ton of body panels try thejeepsterman.com, he is quickly becoming a go to source for all things old Jeep.

Good luck and keep up the great work!
Tried to post there, can't get any pics to load.
 
Did get the locking hub working again by cleaning it out, adding a little grease and straightening out the pins on the inside.
Sorry I'm late to the party,
Be sure the hubs are properly assembled. The four pins you see "fit" into four holes in the bottom of the hub body. The hub will assemble and the dial will rotate regardless of where the pins are, but if the pins aren't aligned with the holes, the hub won't lock.
 
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