Bringing A 69 Commando Back To Life
- Thread starter RussK
- Start date
Picked up two parts vehicles, 1st one was a project that the owner lost interest. It is a complete basket case, but everything is there with spare stuff as well.
Has a good solid tub, lots of parts that I can use, and sell the rest.
2nd was an old farmer who got hit. He then got the panels to fix it, but never got to it.
After it setting in his barn for ten years he moved it outside where it set rusting out for the next 20 years.
This one gave me a bunch of small stuff like two complete rust-free cab side panels (they were never set outside), the hub caps that I want, manual transmission, hood prop that I was missing, etc.....
What I don't use from this on will mostly just go for scrap.
Now I'm back to waiting on UPS and FedEx on parts.
Has a good solid tub, lots of parts that I can use, and sell the rest.
2nd was an old farmer who got hit. He then got the panels to fix it, but never got to it.
After it setting in his barn for ten years he moved it outside where it set rusting out for the next 20 years.
This one gave me a bunch of small stuff like two complete rust-free cab side panels (they were never set outside), the hub caps that I want, manual transmission, hood prop that I was missing, etc.....
What I don't use from this on will mostly just go for scrap.
Now I'm back to waiting on UPS and FedEx on parts.
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They are a weak point for sure.
There’s always a possibility of rock sliders, depending upon how we decide on finishing it out.
Added the TPS System (three pedal security system) to it yesterday, if I ever change it out to a twin stick for the transfer case it would really throw them for a loop.
replaced the seals in the transfer case, and trans while I had it out. Also cleaned it up, lubed shifter assembly, and added some paint to it all.
finished cleaning it up underneath, so I got a chance to paint front diff and the rest of the frame.
Still waiting on brake parts, pinion and axle seals, clutch cable, but they should be in today.
May go ahead and start running my hard lines, which reminds me that I forgot to order my flexible hoses for the brakes.
After the hassle of removing the complete brake/clutch bracket assembly from the donor commando , I looked it long enough to see that all I had to do is swap out the pivot bolt and clutch pedal arm.
It was so much easier than swapping whole thing.
replaced the seals in the transfer case, and trans while I had it out. Also cleaned it up, lubed shifter assembly, and added some paint to it all.
finished cleaning it up underneath, so I got a chance to paint front diff and the rest of the frame.
Still waiting on brake parts, pinion and axle seals, clutch cable, but they should be in today.
May go ahead and start running my hard lines, which reminds me that I forgot to order my flexible hoses for the brakes.
After the hassle of removing the complete brake/clutch bracket assembly from the donor commando , I looked it long enough to see that all I had to do is swap out the pivot bolt and clutch pedal arm.
It was so much easier than swapping whole thing.
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Have it cleaned and mostly painted the underside, still waiting on the engine paint.
Cleaning up some of the old stuff that I'm not going to use, before I list to sell.
My pile of stuff in the shop is getting high, my scrap pile outside has tippled.
I need a larger shop..........
While I'm waiting on parts and have my pressure washer out, good time to clean and reboot the shop
Forgot to take a picture after cleaning and painting the underside of the front.
Cleaning up some of the old stuff that I'm not going to use, before I list to sell.
My pile of stuff in the shop is getting high, my scrap pile outside has tippled.
I need a larger shop..........
While I'm waiting on parts and have my pressure washer out, good time to clean and reboot the shop
Forgot to take a picture after cleaning and painting the underside of the front.
T.M.
Rubicon or bust!
I'm not a lowered car guy, but man does that whitewall look good sunk into that fender.
Makes me wonder...
I believe that when I’m done with everything, that I may have enough body panels left to make an entire full side for the wall of my shop. I do like lowered cars, but just enough to give them a mean stance. I still may lower my Studebaker about an inch.
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Someone said that they wouldn't trust me with a Sawzall. I believe we can all agree that it will in no way affect the value of this Commander.
I took the rear end up to the shop so I could more easily get a hub off of it. Someone previous had beaten the old hub so much it was bent and beyond repair. I don't know what they were trying to do because it looks like they spent hours with a ball pine hammer. Maybe didn't know how co cut off the wedge on the studs maybe.
I did get it swapped, and got the rear brakes done with new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders.
I took the rear end up to the shop so I could more easily get a hub off of it. Someone previous had beaten the old hub so much it was bent and beyond repair. I don't know what they were trying to do because it looks like they spent hours with a ball pine hammer. Maybe didn't know how co cut off the wedge on the studs maybe.
I did get it swapped, and got the rear brakes done with new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders.
Sir, I regret to inform you that your frame has failed the safety inspection.
WHAT???? You guys are way too picky...... lol
While I was removing the rear hub, the impact wouldn't move it any further. I took my hand off of it, turned around to get my bigger impact and BAM .
It went about 5 feet across the room before it landed on the floor. It was the bad one anyway, so I didn't care.
Except it landed on my role of brake line, crushing about 4 of the loops because it was coiled up lying in a box on the floor.
Hopfully I still have enough because I want the brakes to be done by this weekend.
Weather is going to be bad so Thursday and Friday I may be chauffeuring my wife around.
I want to have a complete rolling, driving chassis within the next two weeks so I can start on the body.
Today I finished the rear brakes, tomorrow it's the brakes and hubs on the front. The hubs are frozen so I hope I can free them up and use them.
It went about 5 feet across the room before it landed on the floor. It was the bad one anyway, so I didn't care.
Except it landed on my role of brake line, crushing about 4 of the loops because it was coiled up lying in a box on the floor.
Weather is going to be bad so Thursday and Friday I may be chauffeuring my wife around.
I want to have a complete rolling, driving chassis within the next two weeks so I can start on the body.
Today I finished the rear brakes, tomorrow it's the brakes and hubs on the front. The hubs are frozen so I hope I can free them up and use them.
A good reminder to leave the axle nut on loosely when pulling a hub.
I usually do, mostly to keep from messing up the threads , and I hold onto it with a thick glove to keep the vibration from hurting my hands. But I was being totally absent minded about a few things today. My arthritis was acting up so I was paying to much attention to the pain in my hands and not what I was doing. Leaving the nut on a few threads is always good advice.
Haven't done a lot in the last two days, been prepping the house for the hurricane that's about to come through. We are in north Georgia, so only expecting a lot of rain and 60+ wind
Did tie down the top, but don't have room to put it in the garage or shop.
I was asked how come I was replacing the brake shoes. This is why I don't reuse brake shoes of a vehicle that has sat for a long time, they can come apart. With the brakes it is best to be safe than sorry.
The rear is looking good, when weather permits, I will start on the front.
Did tie down the top, but don't have room to put it in the garage or shop.
I was asked how come I was replacing the brake shoes. This is why I don't reuse brake shoes of a vehicle that has sat for a long time, they can come apart. With the brakes it is best to be safe than sorry.
The rear is looking good, when weather permits, I will start on the front.
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You have more knowledge about this than I do,
I do not have the slightest idea of the ratio. I’m going to pop in pinion seals and drive it , I will leave it alone if it has a reasonable drivability to it. Looked up and one possibly is a 5.13 that would be a bit of a low range for our normal driving.
Maybe you mean 5.38? Not in a Jeepster, unless maybe with the 4 cylinder. Those existed.
Does it have oil in it now? You can look at the edge of the ring gear for the tooth count. For example "41 11" would be 41/11 = 3.73:1. I'm guessing with an automatic it will be 3.31s? Just a guess. I presume this axle has no tag. If there is a tag on the front axle, that would tell you. Typically rust gets worse front to back, so the front tag might be ok.
I may be mistaken, but I thought these only came with the 30 when equipped with an automatic. Lower impact load with an automatic.
I recall you found a couple of other donor cars. Do they have axles under them? May as well choose the most suitable, if they are different.
Does it have oil in it now? You can look at the edge of the ring gear for the tooth count. For example "41 11" would be 41/11 = 3.73:1. I'm guessing with an automatic it will be 3.31s? Just a guess. I presume this axle has no tag. If there is a tag on the front axle, that would tell you. Typically rust gets worse front to back, so the front tag might be ok.
I may be mistaken, but I thought these only came with the 30 when equipped with an automatic. Lower impact load with an automatic.
I recall you found a couple of other donor cars. Do they have axles under them? May as well choose the most suitable, if they are different.
It’s what came up when I googled it, if I remember correctly. But never went any deeper into it. One set on the donor vehicle is good, the other one I would have to rebuild the rear if I was to use it. The good set has flanged axles on the rear and open knuckles on the front. I would most likely use them if I needed.