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Clutch Cable Replacement/hydro Conversion

Fresbone

Fresbone

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I’m having a tough time replacing the clutch cable on my 67 Jeepster. Parts number 1,2,9 in the picture below.
IMG_3019.jpeg

The FSM gives instructions for adjusting the clutch, not installing a new cable, and I don’t have enough slack in the system to get everything connected. I disconnected the clutch fork cable (12) at the bracket, but I can’t disconnect the clutch fork cable at the clutch fork. Also, I have very little play in the clutch fork. I have no idea whether that is normal.

What is the order of assembly?
 
This is late so maybe you have already proceded.
I would disconnect the clevis fork on the end of the short cable.
This allows the bellcrank, lever and tube etc. to then rotate to where you should be able
to connect the longer 1 piece cable.
Then on the short cable, the clevis fork is threaded and can be adjusted for length.
If it's too short to re-attach to the bellcrank, then maybe a short section of threaded rod and a threaded coupler could be used to lengthen the short cable to where you can attach the clevis for to the bellcrank.
You can then adjust as needed from there.
 
jpflat2a said:
This is late so maybe you have already proceded.
I would disconnect the clevis fork on the end of the short cable.
This allows the bellcrank, lever and tube etc. to then rotate to where you should be able
to connect the longer 1 piece cable.
Then on the short cable, the clevis fork is threaded and can be adjusted for length.
If it's too short to re-attach to the bellcrank, then maybe a short section of threaded rod and a threaded coupler could be used to lengthen the short cable to where you can attach the clevis for to the bellcrank.
You can then adjust as needed from there.
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Not too late at all. This is a tomorrow project, I hope. I also heard that releasing the long cable from the bracket (10) may help.
 
Got the clutch cable installed, started up the jeep, and pushed in the clutch to shift into gear, and pop! My impression is that the cable housing failed. Anything I could have done with respect to installation that would have caused this, or just a victim of cheap parts and time for a hydraulic conversion?
IMG_3066.jpeg
 
I think the fingers belong on that side of the firewall. The black cable housing blew out the crimped part. Am I looking at this wrong?
IMG_3066.jpeg
 
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I went thru this awhile back. GET RID OF THE CABLE! They never worked right. I even had a custom HD one made and it didn't work correctly.
Go hydraulic or manual.
 
I spoke to Sam at Partsdude, sent some pics, and I think I have a problem with my clutch fork. It may be one of the newer clutch forks that is not fabricated properly causing them to pop off the pivot ball. If I can't get the clutch fork to seat properly, it doesn't matter whether I use a cable, hydraulic clutch, or clutch bar, so I need to solve that first. But, yes, the plan is ultimately to do a hydraulic conversion.
IMG_3014.jpeg IMG_3059.jpeg
 
If you have the old cable, you can compare to the replacement. That's the first thing I would do. If you can't install the new cable, that seems the most likely reason.

Used to be that Inline Tube offered a replacement cable of high quality. Maybe no more? Is the Jeepster cable different from the '71-ish CJ cable?

Maybe someone with access to the parts books from the era will tell you the proper Jeep PNs for the application. I would expect it to have a GM PN that's the same as the Jeep PN.

Realize that the cable always pulls against the sheath. The cable sheath should be anchored firmly at least one place along its length. Looks to me like the anchor here is at the bracket, item 10 in the drawing. The retainer at 1 should just hold the cable in the right position for the clutch pedal, so it does not flop around.

The later cables for '72 were anchored at the floor panel as I recall. That year, the cables freezing in the sheath was the problem, not the anchor. These would freeze so tight that muscular customers would pull the mounting bracket out of the floor. Not good. Jeep replaced these cables under warranty with a mechanical linkage kit.

In a perfect world, the cable has its advantages. The mechanical linkage may not release the clutch if you have one wheel stuffed and the frame twisted compared to the body. Hydraulics seem to wear out and leak, at least need some maintenance over time, and cost more to implement. A cable should work well and be cheap to build if done right.
 
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Fresbone said:
I think I have a problem with my clutch fork.
Click to expand...
yup. i went through that pain with my T14/dauntless 4 times before i gave up and bought a used NOS unit from a member here. i would take that tranny off now and replace that before you get too far along and have to redo everything anyway because of that garbage fork.
 
I just put a WTB for the clutch fork on the classifieds.
 
IMG_3449.jpeg
I’m having a problem confirming that the clutch fork will stay seated on the pivot ball. What I want to do is get everything off the clutch fork and try moving the clutch fork with video playing. Right now, I am trying to get the clutch rod off the clutch fork. It looks like the coupling nut should be able to unscrew to make it easier to remove the clutch rod, but it won’t budge.

I hit it with some PB blaster and still nothing. My thought is to do this for a few days in a row and see if it penetrates enough to loosen the nut. Am I on the right track?
 
Clutch fork too far outIMG_3451.jpeg
Clutch fork too far inIMG_3450.jpeg
Clutch fork seated (I believe). IMG_3453.jpeg
 
Here’s what I found. First of all, the clutch cable that goes from the clutch fork to the pivot shaft was a bubba part - all thread with some fittings on the end. The clutch fork kept jumping off the pivot ball, I think partly because of the rigidity of the all thread and also there was wear on the clutch fork and pivot ball.

I’m doing a hydraulic conversion. I also think I need to source a clutch fork. I’m going to send some pics to Sam at Partsdude to see what he says.

IMG_4422.jpeg
 
Fresbone said:
Here’s what I found. First of all, the clutch cable that goes from the clutch fork to the pivot shaft was a bubba part - all thread with some fittings on the end. The clutch fork kept jumping off the pivot ball, I think partly because of the rigidity of the all thread and also there was wear on the clutch fork and pivot ball.

View attachment 97254[/QUOTE
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The issue of all thread and rigidity is not your issue here.
The clutch linkage just pulls straight back, regardless or how or what it is made of.
Fork, adjuster ball, and/or fork pivot ball (or geometry of) most likely.
 
this shows the worn spot on the clutch fork.
IMG_4421.jpeg

My CJ5 clutch fork was worn on the tips and had to be brazed. This one looks pretty good to me.
IMG_4420.jpeg

2 shots of the pivot ball. It has some wear, but it’s hard for me to judge without an original next to it.
IMG_4426.jpeg
IMG_4425.jpeg
 
Good luck with a new clutch fork. They all pop off that stud!
 
jeepstar said:
Good luck with a new clutch fork. They all pop off that stud!
Click to expand...
Do I need a different pivot ball? One thing I didn't show (need a better picture) is that the tines on the spring don't hit the center of the flat surface of the picot ball. It almost pushes the clutch fork off. I might be able to flatten the times out to change where they sit.

IMG_4444.jpeg
 
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