I need a TrackBar.
If you do, make it as long and horizontal as possible.
69 Jeepster “rebuild” By A Guy Who Now Knows A Tiny Little Bit!
- Thread starter Fresbone
- Start date
If you do, make it as long and horizontal as possible.
OzFin
Vintage Jeep Guy
Yep, one in the same.
Regional language thing like cellar vs basement, bucket vs pail, eves trough vs gutters, etc.
Track bar is done. It uses two bushings on each end total of 4). Easiest thing I have done so far.
https://thejeepsterman.com/products...ZZtQN53ufbM2Jo7IpltGG0T-CzlkKAW1JUvOFVkamU8Gc
https://thejeepsterman.com/products...ZZtQN53ufbM2Jo7IpltGG0T-CzlkKAW1JUvOFVkamU8Gc
I finished my hydraulic clutch conversion. After I got everything buttoned up, there was a noise from contact between the Novak clutch fork and the clutch pressure plate. I made a separate thread about that, but will summarize below.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/162010/
The clutch fork was rubbing on these two places.
The problem is that the Novak pivot ball is too long for a clutch with a pressure plate with the three built up regions shown above.
The solution was to shim the pivot ball so the back surface was flush with the back of the bellhousing. I used three 0.010” shims. I also relieved the clutch fork where is was contacting the pressure plate. I took off about 0.120” off the main point of contact. According to Novak, I calculus have taken off 0.150 and still had plants of safety margin.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/162010/
The clutch fork was rubbing on these two places.
The problem is that the Novak pivot ball is too long for a clutch with a pressure plate with the three built up regions shown above.
The solution was to shim the pivot ball so the back surface was flush with the back of the bellhousing. I used three 0.010” shims. I also relieved the clutch fork where is was contacting the pressure plate. I took off about 0.120” off the main point of contact. According to Novak, I calculus have taken off 0.150 and still had plants of safety margin.
I pulled out the old CB and plastic drink holder and started to work on tracing out the wiring. Addition by subtraction. I’m planning to make a new wiring harness for the dash with a small fuse box instead of inline fuses. I’m also planning to make a new center console/cupholder.
The ignition switch is inconsistent. Some times I have to jiggle wires to get it to start. I pulled the switch and it looks brand new, which could be good because it is not damaged/burnt out or could be bad because it is probably lesser quality than original.
The ignition switch is inconsistent. Some times I have to jiggle wires to get it to start. I pulled the switch and it looks brand new, which could be good because it is not damaged/burnt out or could be bad because it is probably lesser quality than original.
I spent some time fixing wiring modifications by PO. The alternator exciter wire was cut and spliced with one segment going from the ACC terminal on the ignition switch to the alternator and the other segment going from the dash cluster to… nothing. I spliced the two ends together and now the ignition light works and the car still starts. I also connected the turn signal flasher to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch instead of the dimmer switch. No idea why it was like that. I now have the entire electrical system mapped out. I still need to get the horn working (probably a bad relay) and get the oil light working (probably a burnt out bulb). I’m thinking to scrap the idea of a fuse block and aftermarket harness. If it ain’t broke…
Here is the center console/cup holder. I’m going to paint the body the same yellow as the original vehicle color, make a hardwood top stained black, and get my son to 3D print a liner for the catch-all.
I started removing the plastic floor mat. I like it’s vintage look, but it is in bad shape and I think it will be more comfortable with carpet. I found another penny and a monopoly dollar. There is a thick black material under the driver seat that I presume is insulation. I was thinking of Dynamit under the carpet, but I wonder if I will get enough noise and heat relief from the material already under the seat and a carpet kit with Jute lining built in. That would keep me from needing to permanently adhere something to the floor.
Here is the center console/cup holder. I’m going to paint the body the same yellow as the original vehicle color, make a hardwood top stained black, and get my son to 3D print a liner for the catch-all.
I started removing the plastic floor mat. I like it’s vintage look, but it is in bad shape and I think it will be more comfortable with carpet. I found another penny and a monopoly dollar. There is a thick black material under the driver seat that I presume is insulation. I was thinking of Dynamit under the carpet, but I wonder if I will get enough noise and heat relief from the material already under the seat and a carpet kit with Jute lining built in. That would keep me from needing to permanently adhere something to the floor.
What years on the coins?
Haha. My wife asked me that. Earliest was 65 and oldest was 99.
I found three generations of beer enclosure devices under my CJ5 gas tank - bottle cap, pull tab, and pop tab.
I took out the insulation. It was 1/8” thick rubber, and it was filthy and a little rusty underneath. I pulled all the hole plugs and gave it a good wash. I have some heat/sound barrier ordered and will apply that after some rust converter. I’m going to put some silicone under the hole caps to hopefully keep water out. I’m not sure what to do at the firewall. The firewall insulation was in bad condition. I could replace it with a similar layer from Partsdude, but I think that requires taking off the heater. I could alternatively use the X mat on the firewall. After that, the carpet kit goes in.
Any idea what the holes under the heater are for? I don’t see them on the parts diagrams.
Any idea what the holes under the heater are for? I don’t see them on the parts diagrams.
Thanks. I checked the parts book and didn’t see anything there. I will look in the heater section for a drain.
A few fun things today:
1. Figured out wiring harnesses behind the engine. This makes sense looking at the FSM after @timgr explained how cars would have been set up for options.
These are the harnesses. One going to the engine bundle and the other goes to the transmission.
This is how the harness to the transmission is wired. I didn’t under stand what the unused wires were for and why there was a loop in the purple wire. Since I have manual transmission, I have no clock, no neutral safety switch, and no shift lights. I routed the purple loop and connected the purple (ignition) wire to the purple (coil) wire in the main engine cluster. Neatened things up and two less connections.
I also installed a new cylinder with Briggs and Stratton Jeep keys! I’m going to get the doors and trunk keyed to match.
The JEEP smells noticeably better since I have it a deep interior cleaning. Whooda thought?!
Also got my oil light working.
1. Figured out wiring harnesses behind the engine. This makes sense looking at the FSM after @timgr explained how cars would have been set up for options.
These are the harnesses. One going to the engine bundle and the other goes to the transmission.
This is how the harness to the transmission is wired. I didn’t under stand what the unused wires were for and why there was a loop in the purple wire. Since I have manual transmission, I have no clock, no neutral safety switch, and no shift lights. I routed the purple loop and connected the purple (ignition) wire to the purple (coil) wire in the main engine cluster. Neatened things up and two less connections.
I also installed a new cylinder with Briggs and Stratton Jeep keys! I’m going to get the doors and trunk keyed to match.
The JEEP smells noticeably better since I have it a deep interior cleaning. Whooda thought?!
Also got my oil light working.
Thanks. That’s what I’m using as my main guide. I blew it up into a 24x36 and have it hanging on the wall. It is very close.This may come in handy.
I’m troubleshooting the horn and it looks like the problem is between a spring-loaded copper peg (horn contact pin) that contacts a copper ring behind the steering wheel. There were two shims presumably to make up for wear at the end of the peg. One had fallen out. I think I need to come up with a good way to shim it that will stay put.
The other thing I found was a few crack in the back side of the steering wheel where the PO’s mechanic probably used a gear puller instead of a steering wheel puller. I don’t like that from a safety standpoint, but I don’t see a lot of options. Maybe Sam has one at Partsdude.
The copper peg
One of the cracks in the steering wheel
The other thing I found was a few crack in the back side of the steering wheel where the PO’s mechanic probably used a gear puller instead of a steering wheel puller. I don’t like that from a safety standpoint, but I don’t see a lot of options. Maybe Sam has one at Partsdude.
The copper peg
One of the cracks in the steering wheel
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Got some work done today. I fixed the errors in the interior wiring, bundled the wiring and put it in split loom, and wired up the dome light to a switch at the bottom of the dash. It looks pretty clean, wiring is better protected, and I have a good handle on how it is wired. I’m ultimately going to update the wiring diagram and will post it here.
I started work on the engine compartment. I made the bracket for headlight and horn relays and added a ground bar to the drivers side front fender.
I’m going to put electrical work on a pause to get the floor ready for the carpet kit that should arrive in a week or so. I have some small holes to weld and big holes to patch. Then lay down a dynamat type of material. I’m not sure whether I am going to order a new firewall pad. The carpet out has a jute backing and may provide enough heat and noise protection without it. Thoughts?
Electrical things remaining:
1. Headlight relays.
2. Raise the car and check the engine to frame ground.
3. Tidy up the ignition side of the wiring.
4. Pertronix ignition.
I started work on the engine compartment. I made the bracket for headlight and horn relays and added a ground bar to the drivers side front fender.
I’m going to put electrical work on a pause to get the floor ready for the carpet kit that should arrive in a week or so. I have some small holes to weld and big holes to patch. Then lay down a dynamat type of material. I’m not sure whether I am going to order a new firewall pad. The carpet out has a jute backing and may provide enough heat and noise protection without it. Thoughts?
Electrical things remaining:
1. Headlight relays.
2. Raise the car and check the engine to frame ground.
3. Tidy up the ignition side of the wiring.
4. Pertronix ignition.