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1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists

What a PITA. Had an issue where I'd try to accelerate and the engine would just buck. Let off and it was okay. Turns out I had a leaking fuel line. I have been having issues for a while where the fuel pump screws would back out over time and would leak out from the diaphragm. I ended up pulling the fuel pump off and taking it all apart. Of course after I fixed that additional leaks started showing up. The M38A1 has a shut off valve on the fuel line after the hardline and it's using adapters to go from 1/4" NPT to 5/16" Flare. One of the issues I've had with the fuel lines are the fittings on the flares. The kit is imported and the nut has a tall taper before the threads start. So you're only getting 2 threads in before it bottoms out and I ended up stripping them. The other issues was that the shut off valve had a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT to 1/8" NPT to 5/16" flare on one end and a 1/4" NPT to 5/16" flare on the other. I really wanted to get rid of the 1/8" stuff and reduce the likelihood of a leak down by 1. You can't imagine how much of a PITA it is to find a fitting. I'm sure they cobbled this system together at a hardware store. What a PITA it is to find the fitting. I've got to special order one. Oh and to fix the fuel line nut, I ended up carefully cutting the end of the nut off with a Dremel while still on the line. After cutting it down it went right on and has 4 threads holding it secure. I'm not buying import parts if there is a US option anymore.

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Here's a takeout fuel shutoff from a M38A1; eBay It looks good. Short money for the correct part. Even if you need to take it apart to replace the o-ring, it will fit your original equipment without all of those adaptors.

I'd put many takeout parts over imports and repros. They were built to last. There's so much junk out there.
 
Here's a takeout fuel shutoff from a M38A1; eBay It looks good. Short money for the correct part. Even if you need to take it apart to replace the o-ring, it will fit your original equipment without all of those adaptors.

I'd put many takeout parts over imports and repros. They were built to last. There's so much junk out there.
I found this NOS from Midwest Military that I might pick up. They have the headlight bezels and retainers that I'm missing as well. Might also get a Data Plate and master plate as well since mine's missing. I haven't looked into how to apply the rivets though.
 
Where'd you get the tool? I don't mind buying tools. I've got a lot of rivets to do I think.
It's been some years since I bought my set....I have no idea Jeff...My offer stands. The info you seek is on g503.com, however the website appears to be down (once again). g503.com has has a few issues over the past several weeks....Pete
 
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Been chasing a gas leak at the fuel pump for a while now. I got fed up with gas leaking out the diaphragm seam so I pulled it apart and added some Loctite 516 gasket maker to both sides. I also had to do some arts & crafts with the fuel pump gasket to the block. It's only a year or so old and it was falling apart. I don't have a spare so out comes the paper stock. Used the same Locktite to coat both sides of the paper so we'll see how that works. The other issue I was having was that the brass fittings on the pump were loose and leaking as well. So while it was out I got those replaced and tightened up.

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So what's next? Well, I've been sitting on this for months. My T90c conversion. I probably bought all of this stuff last year. The cluster gear is from Vintage Jeeper. I've had the T90 small parts kit for almost 2 years now. When I initially got the Jeep, I know it had a bad transmission so I bought a Master parts kit for it. Thinking that I was going to rebuild the transmission. One mone, then two then three had passed. I needed the Jeep up and running so that's when I got the spare T90a and D18 from my friends donor M38A1. So, I've this kit sitting ever since. Initially I was going to rebuilt it as a T90a but as time passed, I decided that if I was going to rebuild it I was going to make it a T90c. This made more sense since I was going to get a Saturn Overdrive. I still kind of wish I had gotten a T98 but this is a lot cheaper and I've got Tera 3.15 gears waiting as well.

So, anyway, I got a 3/4" wooden dowel that I cut down to the length of the cluster gear. Then it was time for some Youtube University. Seth of Redeye Garage had a nice video on tear down and assembly of the T90. I got the idea of using a cut down shaft to load all of the rollers on from there. Putting them on the down was a lot less messy then trying to load them into the gear with grease. 4 sets of 21 rollers and 6 end washers later it's all loaded onto the shaft.

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Next up was choosing the T90 case that I'd use. I have three transmissions. One that's in the Jeep, the rusty mess that came out of the Jeep and a spare that came out of a Willys truck. The Willys was complete but it has a 226 input shaft so that would have to be changed out to use on a 134. I was really thinking about going with the 226 case but I cleaned and blasted the old case and it looked pretty good. I'd still have to disassemble and clean the other case. Not sure if I'll use the civilian shifter or the M-Series. I've still got to assemble the T90c and then I have to do the D18. I've been procrastinating and having other things to work on but I'm hoping to get this all done over Summer so it's all ready for next year's Vintage 4x4 Expedition.

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Well, I ran into a hick-up early on. Couldn't find the spacer for the main shaft. I had bought the Master rebuild kit almost 2 years ago and never really checked. Good thing I don't throw away much from the Jeep. I was able to look in the box full of rusted gears and find the spacer old It cleaned up nicely and went on. I really hate having to hammer on these press fitted parts but that's what most people have done I'm sure.

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Had to figure out how to get the bearing onto the main shaft. Ended up using an old 2nd gear and a large socket to get the bearing on. Then I had to press the bearing into the new retainer for the big bore D18.

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Good thing I've been double and triple checking my work. I made the mistake of using 21 rollers. 21 rollers will fit nicely on the dowel but the cluster wants 22 rollers. I've had to redo the rollers a few times as I figured out how to get it all inside the cluster gear. It's really easy to mess up.

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Got to do this sometime. Have an extra trans and tranny to re-build and re-seal at a future date.
Mine both leave their mark. Some great information.


Dave
 
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