compostwerks
Sponsor
The quality of some of the repro parts is unacceptable. I'd use a good takeout before trusting a new part. Sorry for the trouble Jeff....! FYI, looks like the pilot bushing might be boogered.....
1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists
I really like those gauges!Getting some of the essentials done before I run out of time. Drilled a couple holes though my M38 bumper. Yeah, it's an M38 and not an A1 bumper. It already had a few non-spec. holes so I'm not too worried about it. I might end up cutting it more if I ever install a winch. I also wasn't too worried about drilling through any markings. Unfortunately the bumper markings on the front are vinyl stickers and aren't painted. There's no safe way to recover them. I'm wondering about the chains for the tow bar though. They're just loops on the ends. Seems kinda useless unless you have some hooks. Also, why are there two sets of U-bolts and the bar only uses the fronts? What are the rear ones for? I still don't have lights but I'll eventually get some magnet lights so I can stick them on the cab.
I bought some footmans off Amazon and they were a little small. I ended up bending them out and getting them to use the pre-drilled holes. I only paid $10 for a dozen of them and will need tie-downs for this trip in a few weeks. I may or may not replace them with correct ones later but I'm also not wafting to spend $20 per. either.
Also got some magnetic cup holders.
Were they bought individually, or as a set?
jeepljeff
Member
I'll be sure to check it out tomorrow.
They're Auto Meter Z-Series. They're pretty simple but they have everything I wanted. The trip meter is nice and the speedo only goes to 80 mph so 40 is at 12 o'clock. The only downside is that the bezels are kind fat so they're a little hard to read since they're so far down but it's not bad.
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Sal at vintage Jeeper seems to be a straight up guy from what I've heard, but might be worth asking where he sources the cable from. You may find that it's just another Omix part.So, the verdict is in. The pressure plate got hammered! I had to bend some of the ears back so I could get a socket in there. Lucky all of the bolts looked good.
The bellhousing got some wire brushing.
Found the ball end of the cable behind the flywheel. Would never have been able to fish that one out through the inspection cover.
Clutch looks good for having 5 miles on it.
This clip fell out of the bellhousing (I think) but I don't recognize it at all.
The flywheel has some nicks but looks okay. The nuts got beat up when the first clutch came apart and a spring got in there.
The tow bat paid for itself but man, I really need to set it up right. First time owning one. The hitch part isn't straight and does it really use those 4 small bolts to hold it all together?
I should mention, I'm 99% sure that clutch cable is Omix-Ada. I ordered a new one from Vintage Jeeper. I also got a new clutch with bolts from Ron Fitzpatrick. The same place I ordered one from last week!
Inline tube makes a clutch cable that is supposedly leaps and bounds ahead of the Omix one, for not much more money. Might be worth looking into it before going through all the trouble.
I seem to remember a mod on the forums using hiem joints. Not able to find it at the moment.
Interesting, I hope you can get this sorted. A very cool and useful Jeep. You are just ironing out the rough spots. I bought a 55 A1 with an exploded clutch and the bell housing had holes in it from the shrapnel. When I took the clutch out some of the forks were bent over and a lot of bolts were missing. Hopefully, we can find the upgrade thread.
Dave
Interesting, I hope you can get this sorted. A very cool and useful Jeep. You are just ironing out the rough spots. I bought a 55 A1 with an exploded clutch and the bell housing had holes in it from the shrapnel. When I took the clutch out some of the forks were bent over and a lot of bolts were missing. Hopefully, we can find the upgrade thread.
Dave
jeepljeff
Member
Have a PN? I don't see anything on their site. Sal's seems pretty good. I'm pretty sure they aren't Omix or Crown. I did call him out once and got jumped by his followers but then I noticed his claim on a product changed. I've bought other stuff from him as well.
The one that broke was the braided cable not the rod. I've replaced the rod since it broke last year. I used clevis's instead of hiems as they're cheaper and I can take it apart without any tools.
On another note, I think I know what the clip is from. When I took the pressure plate off and all of the adjustment bolts for the fingers were loose. I think these clips slip under the nut and keep it from spinning loose. Once I get the new clutch in I'll know for sure. I only have one clip since some other pieces fell into my jack and I can't get them out till I pull the pack.
jeepljeff
Member
Kinda hard to take a pic from straight on but it looks okay for being 73 years old. Being off centered makes it look oval. I don't think it's any worse then when I stuck it together last week.
Will this work? I seem to recall their make/model information didn't line up appropriately for the brake line kit I ordered from them, but fit fine:Have a PN? I don't see anything on their site. Sal's seems pretty good. I'm pretty sure they aren't Omix or Crown. I did call him out once and got jumped by his followers but then I noticed his claim on a product changed. I've bought other stuff from him as well.
The one that broke was the braided cable not the rod. I've replaced the rod since it broke last year. I used clevis's instead of hiems as they're cheaper and I can take it apart without any tools.
On another note, I think I know what the clip is from. When I took the pressure plate off and all of the adjustment bolts for the fingers were loose. I think these clips slip under the nut and keep it from spinning loose. Once I get the new clutch in I'll know for sure. I only have one clip since some other pieces fell into my jack and I can't get them out till I pull the pack.
I think they can also make custom length cables if that one doesn't fit...
compostwerks
Sponsor
Here's a nice NOS cable..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/264685249056
jeepljeff
Member
It needs to have a ball-end. I guess you'd just have it connect to the cam on the pedal and get rid of the bellcrank then loop it back.
Will the MB/GPW cable work? RF had the MB/GPW but the page said they were for the T84 and not the 90 so I didn't get it. Looks like the T84 is 9.5". T90 uses an 11".
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jeepljeff
Member
I checked the bushing with a new input shaft and there was play. I'd guess a thousand odd the ID. I didn't like how much it wobbled in there. The input shaft already has a bit of play in the bearing but that will be addressed in a few months when I change the transmission out. Tried bread and it didn't work. Just wouldn't extrude.
Ended up running to HF and getting the Pittsburgh pilot bearing puller. Worked great and was $20 with my 20% coupon. I had to improvise to get the legs to sit flat against the flywheel for a straight pull.
You remember those those metal clips I was asking about earlier? They sit on the ends of the fingers of the pressure plate and keep the adjustment screws from rotating. I fished all three of them out of the bellhousing. I'm supposed to get the new clutch cable tomorrow so then I'll be able to put it all back together. Still, not sure if I'll make it before the Vintage 4x4 Expedition. I want to get some miles on this clutch before I take it on a long trip. I'm headed out of town on the 1st and won't be back 9th then the Expo is on the following 13th-16th. Cutting it really close.
Ended up running to HF and getting the Pittsburgh pilot bearing puller. Worked great and was $20 with my 20% coupon. I had to improvise to get the legs to sit flat against the flywheel for a straight pull.
You remember those those metal clips I was asking about earlier? They sit on the ends of the fingers of the pressure plate and keep the adjustment screws from rotating. I fished all three of them out of the bellhousing. I'm supposed to get the new clutch cable tomorrow so then I'll be able to put it all back together. Still, not sure if I'll make it before the Vintage 4x4 Expedition. I want to get some miles on this clutch before I take it on a long trip. I'm headed out of town on the 1st and won't be back 9th then the Expo is on the following 13th-16th. Cutting it really close.
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compostwerks
Sponsor
Jeff, I have an original M38A1 takeout clutch control cable. Yours for the cost of shipping which should be about $11.00
The ball is not galled out, no fraying of the cable. I'd put more confidence in a good takeout versus a repro. I'll even clean it up for you. Just let me know....Pete
The ball is not galled out, no fraying of the cable. I'd put more confidence in a good takeout versus a repro. I'll even clean it up for you. Just let me know....Pete
jeepljeff
Member
Thanks for the offer. I pulled this one out of my parts box. I'm hoping to never have this issue again. /s The bottom one is my original one that wasn't as stretched out. The stretched out one was from my donor A1. I'm not sure what the top one is from.Jeff, I have an original M38A1 takeout clutch control cable. Yours for the cost of shipping which should be about $11.00
The ball is not galled out, no fraying of the cable. I'd put more confidence in a good takeout versus a repro. I'll even clean it up for you. Just let me know....Pete
I think this one is from an MB/GPW. It's noticeably shorter than the A1.
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compostwerks
Sponsor
In both of those pics, the top part is an engine stay cable, not a clutch control cable.
In the first pic, that's an original M38A1 cable which I'd personally reuse in a heartbeat.
Unsure about the second one in the second pic. Could be ECJ5 or MB/GPW like you said. In any case, they all look like serviceable parts to me (but that's just me). There will be some that disagree, but the alternative is repro, NOS or used takeout.
In the first pic, that's an original M38A1 cable which I'd personally reuse in a heartbeat.
Unsure about the second one in the second pic. Could be ECJ5 or MB/GPW like you said. In any case, they all look like serviceable parts to me (but that's just me). There will be some that disagree, but the alternative is repro, NOS or used takeout.
jeepljeff
Member
You mean I can't use the it for the clutch cable? LOL! I had forgotten what it was for actually.
The Vintage Jeeper cable was supposed to have been delivered today but I haven't seen it yet. It's stuck in the snow storm I'm guessing. Was supposed to be 3-Days Priority. I guess Mother Nature had other priorities.
I'm going to throw in my spare cable if it doesn't arrive today.
jeepljeff
Member
Finally got the new cable though a bit late. I guess CJ cables use a smaller gauge cable? The Omix cable was the same. I ended up cleaning up my spare cable and it looked really good actually. I'll keep the VJ cable as a spare.
It's always fun doing this by yourself. I tried stabbing it in the regular way but it wasn't working. I ended up trying a new technique, jacking up the engine and trying to get them inline. Worked pretty good too. Ran out of faylight so I'll have to finish bolting it all back together tomorrow. Hopefully then I'll be able to drive it. I'm not sure if I'll make the vintage 4x4 expedition though. I'd like to get some miles under the new setup before going on a long trip. If I get it done tomorrow, I'll have next week to drive it a bit. Then three days before having to leave.
I am curious about Midwest Military as they have a new cable. Looks like it's the thicker gauge as well.
Here's a question though. When adjusting the linkage, do I take up the slack so the cable is always under tension or do I back it off so the throwout bearing comes all the way back? I'm reading that there should be about 1" of play so that mean the cable is always under tension?
It's always fun doing this by yourself. I tried stabbing it in the regular way but it wasn't working. I ended up trying a new technique, jacking up the engine and trying to get them inline. Worked pretty good too. Ran out of faylight so I'll have to finish bolting it all back together tomorrow. Hopefully then I'll be able to drive it. I'm not sure if I'll make the vintage 4x4 expedition though. I'd like to get some miles under the new setup before going on a long trip. If I get it done tomorrow, I'll have next week to drive it a bit. Then three days before having to leave.
I am curious about Midwest Military as they have a new cable. Looks like it's the thicker gauge as well.
Here's a question though. When adjusting the linkage, do I take up the slack so the cable is always under tension or do I back it off so the throwout bearing comes all the way back? I'm reading that there should be about 1" of play so that mean the cable is always under tension?
jeepljeff
Member
Put in a few hours bolting everything back together. Takes longer when you decide to clean up the part a bit before reinstalling it. Took what was left of the shift tower boot off since all it was doing was hiding rust. Got the bellhousing bolted up as well as the transmission crossmember. Both driveshafts have been reconnected and the main panel of the floor is partially bolted back in. Starter is also back in,, parking brake lever reattached and the gas tank as well and trim piece. Hopefully, tomorrow, I'll finish all of the small things and be able to test drive it for the first time. For all of the work I've done I still have a T90C and D18/3.15 to build and install.
Believe me, It never ends.
cj2atruck
Member
Nope, the jeep projects never end. I’ve been working on the 47 almost every day since November 1st to be ready to take it to Moab to test the suspension changes, and I still didn’t finish my list of projects. Just means I won’t be bored when I return home the first week of April…