You can also go to the Dorman website and utilizing the filters when searching brake hoses. You can specify for example, brand of vehicle and/or length of hose as either axis length or overall length to help guide you what you need.
R&P GM 1/4 Ton Disc Conversion
- Thread starter FinoCJ
- Start date
Renegade ll
Julius Vatalaro
James I have the R&P disc brakes front and rear. 1/4 ton chevy S10 rear, chevy 1/2 ton front. I had the skinny brake lines that came with the kit. To me they were easy to kink. I went with a much better quality brake line from Napa. Part number is UP36761. They are very nice and there're ultra premium hose. 18.2" in length.
Slowly acquiring parts and figuring out what I need to do.....
so picked up these Dorman lug studs
Dorman Wheel Studs 610-260
The diameter of the knurl is good and the length of the shoulder is good, the OAL is good....but wondering about the 'style' of the knurl as compared to the OEM style. Will these work when I pull them into to the hubs - just don't want to damage a hub trying something that won't work.
so picked up these Dorman lug studs
Dorman Wheel Studs 610-260
The diameter of the knurl is good and the length of the shoulder is good, the OAL is good....but wondering about the 'style' of the knurl as compared to the OEM style. Will these work when I pull them into to the hubs - just don't want to damage a hub trying something that won't work.
Should work without doing any damage if the knurl diameter is same.
Don’t forget the correct tool, makes it so much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Stud-I...cphy=9032204&hvtargid=pla-1720935026828&psc=1
Don’t forget the correct tool, makes it so much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Stud-I...cphy=9032204&hvtargid=pla-1720935026828&psc=1
Jesse73
Member
I wasn't able to see a specific part number on my brake lines, but I would say this part number is close to or the same as what I am using.
I put the 1/4 ton R&p kit on my front axle in 2015, there have been no issues with the lines they supplied (or any other part for that matter). The pads I used came from Oreilly's, part number D154. The brakes have been one of my best upgrades.
I wish I had painted the calipers before I installed them, but my kids were 8 years younger then. I would have had more limited time
I wish I had painted the calipers before I installed them, but my kids were 8 years younger then. I would have had more limited time
no brake lines were supplied, and no part number was given with them....but I found something I think will work. Rich included the part numbers for the calipers and pads and the knuckle studs, although i went buttonhead on the knuckles. I got the same pads you got - they are pretty much the only ones I can find that are organic without dropping HUGE coin on something from Willwood.
I bought some through Carquest that are supposed to coated and not bare metal so I wouldn't have to deal with painting....and i guess they are coated, but its really thin. Don't think its going to hold up for a long period of time. Part of what takes so long is I am painting knuckles and portions of the hubs, and the lock-outs etc....all this little tedious stuff takes time.
Does any paperwork tell you what the coating is? If it is a dull grey to grey black color with a smell of oil, there is a good chance the coating is phosphate and oil. There are several types of phosphates, some are much thinner than others. If the coating looks like thin paint, disregard the rest of my comments.
A quick test for phosphate coating:
Take some acetone (or paint thinner) and test wiping the oil off. You could see discoloration on the wiping rag, from the oil. Acetone should not remove a good phosphate coating. Look at the area you just wiped free of oil in sunlight. If the surface has a small sparkle to the finish (kind of like small metal flake) it is probable phosphate coating. The sparkle comes from the phosphate crystals. If the coating is phosphate, wipe the oil off and paint. The phosphate coating gives decent rust protection when kept coated with oil. Once the oil is gone so is most of your protection.
Phosphate coating is a great paint/ powder coat primer when done correctly. Even a thin phosphate coating should adhere to the steel well, the phosphate crystals absorb like a sponge. No guarantee on Chineseium Coatings or their procedures.
Yup....works well....these studs seem like they will work well
Oh! I see it now!
You are doing the hub reversal swap too. Great idea to keep the wheels from getting scraped on the rocks!
If I had to guess, looks like aluminum/silver colored silver paint? No time for detail investigation as prepping jeep for Colo. I know black phosphate coatings....all the rusty hardware on my skids, cross member etc was black phosphate years ago.
At least I only did one....Yup....works well....these studs seem like they will work well
I didn't realize this was a new Jeep thing. Works well on a D27 as the turning radius is less than on a D30. At least that
is what i have been told. Never noticed the difference myself or had that explained.
yup....I spent hours and hours searching on dorman and other sites....was the best i could find. Options were really limited by the .375" limit on the shoulder length....but after working with them a bit and seeing more about how the drums are machined, you could go longer for the shoulder/knurled section. The backside of the lug holes on the discs are counterbored a bit - Upon further inspection, it seems they are counterbored enough to allow re-use of the OEM lugs. Without the drum, the lug will push further through the hub, pushing a section of the knurl shoulder to extend into the disc's counterbore area. Don't know if that is some of what Rich does to make the discs unique and more specific to the willys application. In my case, I still needed a longer stud given the aftermarket alloy wheels, but I might have been able to find a slightly longer knurl section. FWIW - I pulled the ones you see on with the impact gun until they pretty much came to a stop - so that is pretty high torque they withstood without spinning. But given some years and mileage etc, and lots of on off with lug nuts, I do worry they could eventually spin. This is all new stuff to me....learning the hardway.
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I went with studs that had a longer knurled shoulder and had to counterbored the disk to get it to work. If your hubs started off in good shape you shouldn’t have any issues with the shorter knurled shoulder spinning.
Got a little chance to work on the brake upgrade....had to finish the knuckle rebuild, new kingpin bearings, seals, TREs (and drag link) etc - then got the caliper bracket in place:
I've never worked with these GM style disc brakes, so its a bit of a learning curve trying to figure out how the pads and slider bolts go....I think I got it, but sure some of you can call me out if I got something out of place:
The basic idea with the rotor on the outside of the hub:
So here is the close-up of the caliper....The pad with the clip and wear indicator goes on the inboard side, with the clip going inside the piston. The simple, clipless pad goes on the outboard side and essentially sits in/on the caliper - this part I am pretty confident in as they fit pretty distinctly. But what about the spacers that go on the slider pins? Does that spacer go between the caliper mounting ear and bracket (as shown in photo)? I only threaded the slider pins in finger tight, so they are not all the way in. I assume when I tighten them down, they will push the caliper outboard a bit giving more clearance to the outside pad so its not rubbing on the rotor.
I've never worked with these GM style disc brakes, so its a bit of a learning curve trying to figure out how the pads and slider bolts go....I think I got it, but sure some of you can call me out if I got something out of place:
The basic idea with the rotor on the outside of the hub:
So here is the close-up of the caliper....The pad with the clip and wear indicator goes on the inboard side, with the clip going inside the piston. The simple, clipless pad goes on the outboard side and essentially sits in/on the caliper - this part I am pretty confident in as they fit pretty distinctly. But what about the spacers that go on the slider pins? Does that spacer go between the caliper mounting ear and bracket (as shown in photo)? I only threaded the slider pins in finger tight, so they are not all the way in. I assume when I tighten them down, they will push the caliper outboard a bit giving more clearance to the outside pad so its not rubbing on the rotor.
The hardware looks in the correct order to me. The silver spacers ride inside the ears of the caliper and allow the caliper to slide left and right to center the pads after braking. There should be a flat rubber seal inside the caliper ears that the spacers slide on. The small holes on the outside of the caliper also have flat seals that the pin slides on. Lube these so the caliper slides freely.
The spacer and seals are part of the brake hardware kit.
The spacer and seals are part of the brake hardware kit.
