Post Script parts list for R&P 1/4 ton disc conversion:
So, here are the final parts and pieces I found useful to complete this project - and I guess I should copy this up to the first post as well:
R&P 1/4 ton disc brake kit (although I ordered this from Rich at his new venture called R&P Early Jeeps, I assume its the same as the original R&P 4wd set-up)....probably depending on what you order from Rich, it seems people get more or less parts, depending on how 'complete' of a kit they want. But the basic idea is that the custom caliper brackets are the key part to get from R&P, and the rest you can get from FLAPS:
1) caliper brackets - custom from R&P
2) rotors - I got mine along with the caliper brackets from Rich, so not sure exactly what they come from. I think they are from something like a 1990 Suzuki Samarai - the typical GM s-10 rotors don't have large enough center bore to fit over Jeep hubs)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuki,1990,samurai,1.3l+l4,1271179,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896
3) Calipers - I used Carquest 18-4129 (left) and 18-4128 (right)
4) Brake Pads - D154 (organic - only found these through O-riellys)
5) Brake Lines - Summit Racing 230910 - these worked out really well as they work with 7/16 in. banjo bolt at the caliper end and female 3/8 in -24 inverted flare on the other (to connect to my traditional hard line). 15.75 in. length seems really good and is a bit shorter than many of the other options, so less excess hose to deal with.
6) Wheel studs - Dorman 610-260....I still had the OEM style wheel studs and Wagner brake drums pressed on the back of the hub....I needed a longer wheel stud to work going through the rotor and using a thicker modern mag wheel with acorn nut. If still using a thin steel wheel or shanked lug nuts, maybe not necessary....These Dormans have a very short section of knurl as I initially concerned the knurl could protrude through the hub and engage into the outboard rotor, but the rotor was counterbored so this wasn't as big of an issue as I was thinking.
7) Knuckle Studs...3/8" - 24 x 1.5" I did the buttonhead knuckle studs conversion at the same time, and as the caliper bracket is 1/4' thick, I went with a 1/4" longer buttonhead to 1.5" length bolt to ensure it would go through the caliper bracket and leave enough thread to nut off properly. I used metal lock nuts on mine, but there was enough thread you could use a standard lock washer if preferred.....
Here is where the original thread started out:
Starting to put together and walk through what is needed for a 1/4ton GM disc brake conversion (front) - Richard at R&P has helped me out with this. It uses the S10 style calipers that require a 10mm banjo type fitting....I think this would be the standard flex hose section connecting from the hard line to the caliper:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-h38107/make/chevrolet/model/s10/year/1990#overview
So what I am still trying to figure out is how to connect the flex hose to the hard brake line, which IIRC is 3/16" hardline - so I think that is 3/8-24 male inverted flare thread. Seems like there is probably some combination of fitting adapters could possibly work, but I am not sure what the thread is for the non-banjo end of the hose, and so far, not finding any obvious adapters. Or do you all know of a different hose connection that will work with female flare on one end and banjo on the other?
So, here are the final parts and pieces I found useful to complete this project - and I guess I should copy this up to the first post as well:
R&P 1/4 ton disc brake kit (although I ordered this from Rich at his new venture called R&P Early Jeeps, I assume its the same as the original R&P 4wd set-up)....probably depending on what you order from Rich, it seems people get more or less parts, depending on how 'complete' of a kit they want. But the basic idea is that the custom caliper brackets are the key part to get from R&P, and the rest you can get from FLAPS:
1) caliper brackets - custom from R&P
2) rotors - I got mine along with the caliper brackets from Rich, so not sure exactly what they come from. I think they are from something like a 1990 Suzuki Samarai - the typical GM s-10 rotors don't have large enough center bore to fit over Jeep hubs)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuki,1990,samurai,1.3l+l4,1271179,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896
3) Calipers - I used Carquest 18-4129 (left) and 18-4128 (right)
4) Brake Pads - D154 (organic - only found these through O-riellys)
5) Brake Lines - Summit Racing 230910 - these worked out really well as they work with 7/16 in. banjo bolt at the caliper end and female 3/8 in -24 inverted flare on the other (to connect to my traditional hard line). 15.75 in. length seems really good and is a bit shorter than many of the other options, so less excess hose to deal with.
6) Wheel studs - Dorman 610-260....I still had the OEM style wheel studs and Wagner brake drums pressed on the back of the hub....I needed a longer wheel stud to work going through the rotor and using a thicker modern mag wheel with acorn nut. If still using a thin steel wheel or shanked lug nuts, maybe not necessary....These Dormans have a very short section of knurl as I initially concerned the knurl could protrude through the hub and engage into the outboard rotor, but the rotor was counterbored so this wasn't as big of an issue as I was thinking.
7) Knuckle Studs...3/8" - 24 x 1.5" I did the buttonhead knuckle studs conversion at the same time, and as the caliper bracket is 1/4' thick, I went with a 1/4" longer buttonhead to 1.5" length bolt to ensure it would go through the caliper bracket and leave enough thread to nut off properly. I used metal lock nuts on mine, but there was enough thread you could use a standard lock washer if preferred.....
Here is where the original thread started out:
Starting to put together and walk through what is needed for a 1/4ton GM disc brake conversion (front) - Richard at R&P has helped me out with this. It uses the S10 style calipers that require a 10mm banjo type fitting....I think this would be the standard flex hose section connecting from the hard line to the caliper:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-h38107/make/chevrolet/model/s10/year/1990#overview
So what I am still trying to figure out is how to connect the flex hose to the hard brake line, which IIRC is 3/16" hardline - so I think that is 3/8-24 male inverted flare thread. Seems like there is probably some combination of fitting adapters could possibly work, but I am not sure what the thread is for the non-banjo end of the hose, and so far, not finding any obvious adapters. Or do you all know of a different hose connection that will work with female flare on one end and banjo on the other?
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