• Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.

67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

Current problems are:
1. Brakes way too soft. I’m going to start from scratch - bench bleed, bleed each line, adjust rear drums.
2. Brake light still not working. I’m hoping that solving #1 solves #2.
3. Fuel gauge (Omix, I know…) not working. It’s a new sender and appears to be wired correctly. Voltage (vs ground) at I (hot, ignition) and A (jumps to temp gauge, not used) terminals is 12.6. Voltage between S terminal (pink wire going to fuel sender) and ground is .7. I need to read up on this. Maybe my tank is empty!
 
I’m now considering the rebuild to be almost done-ish. There are going to be some ongoing projects, of course, but I think it is time to take it to the shop and have a qualified mechanic check out the brakes and steering. I drove a few friends around today and ran it by to show my 93-year-old dad after the Eagles win. Dad is from Philly.
FullSizeRender.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I’m going to have to build a ramp to get him into it!
My JEEP was my Dad’s originally, he’s 83 years old and had both knees replaced in the last year. He can finally move well enough to get into the JEEP again, so I set up a step stool to get him in so he could go for a ride, grinning from ear to ear. That was at end of summer, said it was 1st ride in it since I had rebuilt it 8-9 years ago.
 
Fuel gauge problem is solved. The fuel gauge itself is bad. Omix. I’m not using the temp gauge on the console because I have a dedicated temp gauge on the dash, so I moved the sender (pink) line from S on fuel gauge to S on temp gauge. I just need to remember to fill my tank when my “temperature” starts to get “cold.”
 
I took my jeep into the shop to make sure it was safe for driving - steering and brakes. Here’s what they did.
1. Brakes were fine except I had my MC plumbed backwards to the P valve. I assumed that the front of the MC was the front brakes. Bad on me.

2. Steering was stiff. I didn’t know what normal steering should feel like. My mechanic was able to remove all of this and make a more direct shot from the steering column to the power steering box. He also replaced the rag joint with a U joint. He also changed the Pittman arm so it is more in line with the plane of the rest of the steering to reduce the jump steer. To be honest, I need to dig deeper into this to understand what he did. I will shoot some after pictures later.
IMG_4916.jpeg

3. Fixed the preload on the rear diff. I knew this needed to be done, and was going to do it later, but now it is done sooner.

4. Swapped out the SM420 cover so it is no longer a speed shifter. Shifts much better now.
 
Today, I tightened the mirrors, put back on the tranny and TC boots, and cut down and installed the dash pot. I don’t really like the look of the TC boot, but it is better than a hole through the floor. At some point I may redo the tranny tunnel.
IMG_4919.jpeg
IMG_4918.jpeg
 
I finally started on my e brake conversion. The JEEP came with 11” drums ready for e brake cables. In fact, it had cut off cables sticking out when I bought it. It also came with a block of wood.

I got most of the parts from Partsdude. The front and rear cables were from Crown. He had a used T-handle brake pull. I had to cut off the extension that was used to make it work with a different type of JEEP. He also had the balancing bar that connects front to rear cables. I ordered the rear cable retainers from Kaiser-Willys. I made the bracket for the front cable to fit over the 1/4-20 bolts that normally would hold the gar tank strap. I will put final pics when done.

IMG_5134.jpeg IMG_5136.jpeg
 
Back
Top