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Woodstock

timsresort said:
Not as sexy as hearing my LS run, but also needed. The Warn 8274 (DOB 1-17-78), needs a lot, and I can work on it a little at a time after work. First, more disassembly, to get the drum off, I have to crack it open.
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Drum bead blasted and painted. This is the easy part.
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Next, I need to rebuild the brake assembly. I bought a bunch of parts from Montana Jack's Outpost.
They have everything I need for a 8274 rebuild. First I need to get the brake assembly out of the housing so I can disassemble.
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That wasn't too bad, just rotate a locking plate and tap the shaft out of the housing. Once in the vise, I thought I could use a puller (cheap HF) to pull the drum. Yeah, no. It was frozen on there, with heat, still nothing until I broke the high quality chinesium puller.
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So into the press. With about as much pressure as I thought it could take, and some heat, it finally (ka-bang) let loose.
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I had the same issue with mine. That brake was REALLY stuck to the shaft and needed press and heat to break loose. After that, the rest of the rebuild was cake.
 
Take lots of pictures of the shaft and housing interface I would love to convert my 8000 to an 8200 automatic brake. The go-kart brake don't work well on a wireless remote.
 
I was ready to reassemble the brake shaft, and think I have everything needed. I even reviewed the diagram.
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I have the shaft, drums, and internals clean and sliding together nicely. The new shoes from Montana Jack's are placed. But I am stopping here because I need to paint the drums before this gets assembled. Sorry for jumping around so much.
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The sun came out between rain showers, so I tuned up the passenger fender and primed it. I know, this is not critical path stuff, but it is part of getting the front together, and drivable. I also find if I break up body work with other stuff, it doesn't seem as tedious. I remember on my 5 last year, I figured I had 8 hours in each fender. This had my attention for maybe 2.
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Waiting for paint to dry, let's see if I got the right serpentine belt. Yep.
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This morning the painting window closed abruptly.
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So, luckily, there is only everything to work on, so I will make some progress on wiring. All lighting, gauges, line lock, fuse panel, solar, ignition, etc. Lighting is most of it.
 
Little stuff.
Wiring, heat shrink, crimp lugs, tyraps, wire loom, wire numbers, wiring diagram. It is coming together, probably 80 percent done.
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Then, cleaned and painted the 8274 brake drums. Also cleaned the bores so they slide on nicely.
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Installed the brake shaft into the lower housing and assembled the bearings with a little sticky grease to hold the balls until it's compressed and snap ring installed.
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Then pressed the outer drum down and installed the snap ring.
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And this week I figured out the hydroboost lines and got them made. The HB and pump use metric O-ring fittings, so I bought adapters to adapt to -6AN lines. The fitting at the box is still 7/16 inverted flare. I am driving by the hydraulic shop almost every day right now, so it was semi-convenient to get this done. Stop 1: describe what I need and create work order. Stop 2: pick up the lines with one end crimped. Go home and trim the line and clock the fittings. Stop 3: Take back for the second ends to be crimped. Anyway, they're done, with nice crimps and heavy duty hydraulic line.
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All that looks great!!

I recently tossed two hydroboost MC's sourced from Astro Vans. I got tired of kicking them around the storage area. I did put a hydroboost setup on a 70 Wagoneer with a 350 in it about 20 years ago. That was a worthwile conversion on those drum brakes!
 
I have a little painting weather today, so I will make some progress. To back up...I had kind of given up on paint as a priority, but I changed my mind. So today, getting the right fender, grille (touchup), and 2 rear corners body worked, primed and painted is the plan.
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I got rid of the dent I got on Whalebones a few years ago, then primed.
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I had a little touch up to do on the grille, so it got hung up gain, then I mixed up 6 ounces of Woodstock Green. This goes pretty quick, 3 coats 10 minutes apart.
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It's nice to get more green and moving forward. I don't know if the whole jeep will be green before summer, but parts will be.
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Between coats, I started on the 8274. First is to mask and paint the grooves black. More on this later.
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I considered paint for the winch, but I think natural aluminum looks better. With the grooves painted black, I clear coated the cleaned aluminum.
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The winch came with an original Warn jeep mount, and before I sell it, it works great to hold the thing for assembly.
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Now for a major upgrade. This is the motor for a modern Warn 9.5, and about 2-1/2 times the original horsepower. (2.5 HP vs. 6 HP). I should be able to break something with this. It also should make the winch a 10K winch, no problem. I had to buy a splined drive gear for it to work, as the old drive gear is keyed.
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I am using all Warn-branded parts on this. One could go much cheaper, by using cheaper foreign ebay parts.
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At this point, I might as well get it out of my way and on the jeep. Next will be the contactor and wiring, and the clutch.
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There is plenty of room around the winch, and I like the low mount for cooling. I still need to install the free spool on the side.
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Looking at the control pack. The old solenoids did work, but are not available anymore, and a solid state contactor will be more trouble free. I also bought a new 8274 cover, and the control socket is coming. Parts availability for these is great, which makes using a 50 year old winch more reasonable.
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I got new cables, but I am not sure if they will work with the non-stock contactor. Also, the motor cap, on the right, is going to interfere with one of the hose clamps that holds the control pack.
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I can fix that by flipping one of the hose clamp mounts on the back plate.
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Then, figuring out a way to fit the contactor in the old enclosure. It has to go to one side because the control socket protrudes in the middle. I am not the first to do this, so it should work. I will get the control socket soon, and then it can be mocked up.
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Grille time. I can finally install this for the last time. Well, I might repaint it some time in the future. It's good enough for now, if you squint...
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I bolted up the radiator and shroud to the back side, then finished the radiator notch in the second headlight bucket. A quick coat of paint and overnight dry, ready to install.
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Lighting installed, this takes a little while. I ran the glass marker lenses through the dishwasher, once every 25 years, whether they need it or not. Also cleaned up the wiring with some heat shrink.
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I got some NOS canvas hood welting from Sam, and riveted it on, for anti-squeak.
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Plopped it on the frame. Now I can connect the cooling, wiring, and soon the right fender can go on, I just need to clearance the fan shroud a little first. I closed the hood to check the fit.
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timsresort said:
Grille time. I can finally install this for the last time. Well, I might repaint it some time in the future. It's good enough for now, if you squint...
IMG_8960.jpeg

I bolted up the radiator and shroud to the back side, then finished the radiator notch in the second headlight bucket. A quick coat of paint and overnight dry, ready to install.
IMG_8961.jpeg

Lighting installed, this takes a little while. I ran the glass marker lenses through the dishwasher, once every 25 years, whether they need it or not. Also cleaned up the wiring with some heat shrink.
IMG_8970.jpeg

I got some NOS canvas hood welting from Sam, and riveted it on, for anti-squeak.
IMG_8969.jpeg

Plopped it on the frame. Now I can connect the cooling, wiring, and soon the right fender can go on, I just need to clearance the fan shroud a little first. I closed the hood to check the fit.
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Click to expand...
WOW
Coming right along
I'm really enjoying watching and learning from this build
 
More body stuff. I masked and primed the right side with my usual Summit 2K urethane primer.
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With the clock ticking very loudly lately, the fact that it's snowing today, so painting is out, I made the decision to skip painting the sides green for now. This opens up a lot of assembly. Front fender, rocker guard, rear corner, fuel filler, tail light.
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And the rear corners were keeping the cage from bolting in, as it all ties together. I'll go back to paint when I'm not rushed. I'm more focussed on going jeeping, than paint, at this point.
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Not bad for a jeep I cut in thirds, if I do say so myself. Now, I'll stay out of that right side line at Whalebones, skip the drama, and not get a dent.
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I also did a bunch of various snall projects- cold air intake ordered, hydraulic lines (again), brake lines from the MC down to the proportioning valve, wiring, throttle pedal layout, battery box final, fuel pump door riveted down. And, importantly, the hydraulic clutch got bled and actually works. Next I need to turn the jeep around, and I would like to drive it for that. So that is the push. Hell, I need to be testing on Twin Peaks in a month. Anyway, it will be multi-color for the first run, but it doesn't look half-bad.
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More Warn parts. Got the new remote plug and installed in the cover.
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Installed the relay back plate on the motor with new stainless clamps. Now to figure out cable routing. I will need to make the 3 motor cables.
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The Speedhut gauges have arrived. GPS speedo, fuel, oil, water, and tach. These look good and I can't wait to install. I bought these during their sale last month, and it saved me quite a bit.
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The speedo fits right in the flatfender speedo hole. The little screen in the middle you can toggle between several functions-odometer, clock, altitude, top speed, trip odometer, and more.
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73 year old jeep gets some tech. I had to set it in to see. These all glow red at night, like my 75 year old M37. I always have liked that, easy on my night vision.
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