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Woodstock

While waiting on fuel injectors, I spent some time looking at the old 8274 that's going on the jeep. This has been considered as possibly optional for this season, if I run out of time, but what the heck.
IMG_8787.jpeg

The round clutch knob is the first indicator of a early-ish winch. I think pre-1980. The 5-digit serial number also says early. The date code, AK8, means- A= first month (Jan), K=11th working day of the month (in 1978 that was the 17th), and 8= either 1978 or 1988, and since we know it's pre-1980, it's 1978. So Jan. 17, 1978. My brother Sam's
11th birthday. Pretty cool.
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I am going to upgrade/rehab this winch a little. In the plan is a new 6 hp motor, new Albright contactor, new contactor cover and plug, new brake, new remote, new rope, and a general clean up. So I started with pulling the original Prestolite motor, that I think is like 2.5 HP.
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I received my really nice TRE rope, 125' of 3/8" with an eye on the end. This is the same rope @Fireball used recently. TRE is reasonable, and was on my short list before he got it. But thanks to Roy, for the advice on length, I think it is better to carry an extension than to load up the drum with 150' and not have room if it bunches up.
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I also got the beginnings of my fan shroud from Summit. I think this will be easy to adapt to my situation.
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A little more on the winch. I bought this nice Warn aluminum fairlead, it really wasn't bad at 50 bucks.
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Mocked up there. I think that under the bumper will be fine, as this jeep is a little on the high side, although it should come down 3". I like the look a lot. Can't wait to get the winch in there.
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In other news, I got the front bedliner sprayed. I still need to spot weld the driver side tool box lid down, but the floors are mostly done (enough). "Done enough" might become a term I use more and more...
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And then, a very welcome package.
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In my book, you just can't beat Tom Woods. I ordered it Friday, received it Tuesday. Free shipping and no drama. Anyway, it's 22-1/2" long, with a longer travel spline and 1310 ujoints. I know that's a little small, but Nick and I run 1310's and have never had a problem. Of course, that's with a V6. I think as long as I keep my foot out of it, it should be fine.
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This is the little touch screen programmer that comes with the Holley Terminator X. I can make changes, troubleshoot, or just use for monitoring what's going on. I started to think about where to put it.
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Maybe here, I don't know, my dash is kind of full.
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Then I turned to the fan shroud. This is a universal shroud that I got from Summit. It needs a little trimming for the upper hoses.
IMG_8873.jpeg

Then some careful measuring and layout to transfer the center of the fan to the shroud. And then cut.
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It needs some clean up, but this will work. Usually "universal" isn't, but in this case it was a cost effective time saver.
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Will you close up the bottom of the shroud or leave it open?

I’m going to start building my shroud in a few days as soon as the half doors are finished, and my radiator sits higher than the fan like yours, so I’ve been thinking about how I will seal with the bottom.
 
cj2atruck said:
Will you close up the bottom of the shroud or leave it open?

I’m going to start building my shroud in a few days as soon as the half doors are finished, and my radiator sits higher than the fan like yours, so I’ve been thinking about how I will seal with the bottom.
Click to expand...

I made the bottom piece removable on both of the ones I made so you can get the upper part out without removing the fan.

Shroud made of welded steel on the '71:
AP1GczMhScVIkKmoYxxW-BUq2-LdkZtQDDvMl-yYEiB22eIu6uhkZlm1y_OD60HzYSN5CjP6txXhyj_TqzTdiw92IFOQahRq3i4wK_III__pdCnsgtGGpEcWqyMl_VKUCxAqukRVv1s1wXrV2uzDR2WWwUD-OQ=w1000


Riveted aluminum shroud on the DJ-2A:
AP1GczOpnU2TpqvYWz7Lxm26Nr0i-r2fHKO5v6zOZv_ztyTNe3siEvhytmXbD1-x1eXLLvYd2QZ2aofz8jFMDzPjF6e-ZAISZSf9vSx0jmess6mm8eSngeSZjuyEO78A68j2sns5kXdaFJeciuChMjcS588umQ=w1000


The lower piece was a little floppy on the thin aluminum shroud, so I added a brace to the crossframe for support:
AP1GczM-56rwkArbEx0pO248ds8MagH2tAf6GQqzhF0p6jdivYjoOY2-IU5UZ1q1hKuITRjFlXypv9KrA2J9GqdLoMTwkKYDAuqBq_2DkKovJwwgcg6U2vtgeMPmNA5fBo5QXpVPahYz3GsRLcvUJFhqzBUo_w=w1000
 
cj2atruck said:
Will you close up the bottom of the shroud or leave it open?
Click to expand...
You know, I wasn't going to. But I now see Roy's removable bottom shroud and kind of like it. But that will be later, if needed kind of thing. I am playing beat the clock (like a few guys here), to be ready for a little trip that is coming up fast. So anything that can wait, will wait. I also think, knock wood, that the big mechanical fan, combined with the shroud, is going to be fine for a little 5.3. Anyway, my plan was to just do what the stock V6 jeep has, open on the bottom. This is my stock '67 shroud.
IMG_88881.jpeg
 
Fireball said:
I made the bottom piece removable on both of the ones I made so you can get the upper part out without removing the fan.

Shroud made of welded steel on the '71:
AP1GczMhScVIkKmoYxxW-BUq2-LdkZtQDDvMl-yYEiB22eIu6uhkZlm1y_OD60HzYSN5CjP6txXhyj_TqzTdiw92IFOQahRq3i4wK_III__pdCnsgtGGpEcWqyMl_VKUCxAqukRVv1s1wXrV2uzDR2WWwUD-OQ=w1000


Riveted aluminum shroud on the DJ-2A:
AP1GczOpnU2TpqvYWz7Lxm26Nr0i-r2fHKO5v6zOZv_ztyTNe3siEvhytmXbD1-x1eXLLvYd2QZ2aofz8jFMDzPjF6e-ZAISZSf9vSx0jmess6mm8eSngeSZjuyEO78A68j2sns5kXdaFJeciuChMjcS588umQ=w1000


The lower piece was a little floppy on the thin aluminum shroud, so I added a brace to the crossframe for support:
AP1GczM-56rwkArbEx0pO248ds8MagH2tAf6GQqzhF0p6jdivYjoOY2-IU5UZ1q1hKuITRjFlXypv9KrA2J9GqdLoMTwkKYDAuqBq_2DkKovJwwgcg6U2vtgeMPmNA5fBo5QXpVPahYz3GsRLcvUJFhqzBUo_w=w1000
Click to expand...
Thanks for the pictures. I plan on making my shroud in four pieces and use rivet nuts for easy assembly, but had not figured out the bottom piece yet. My radiator is for a 1965 Mustang with a 289, so I have a lip on each side that will hold the shroud in place.
 
I know, it should be running by now. Here's what's happening. I decided to go with a LS2 Trailblazer SS intake, because it's slightly shorter, and has good flow, so why not? Well, now I see why. The TBSS intake I bought came with E85 injectors, which I didn't notice until I went to program the Terminator X. So, I went shopping for injectors that fit the TBSS manifold, that Holley recognizes. And yes, I could buy them from someone that has them in a few days, but they cost $80 each. So, instead, I bought genuine GM on Ebay for 1/8 the price, and it takes a week. Got them today. They are too short, and this is a known issue, so ICT Billet makes spacers that solve the shortness. I can pick those up at Summit tomorrow. Rant over.
Anyhoo... over the weekend, it was nice, so I decided to paint the grille so I don't have to drain the cooling system later to paint. So I hung the grille.
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I mixed up some Woodstock Green Poly, about 6 ounces, and 3 coats 10 minutes apart, it's done.
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Then I turned back to the rocker guards. A little welding to finish the stretch, and some bedliner, they are ready to go on after bodywork.
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And some touch up and paint on the seat mount. I added a center support to reduce flex. This means I'm close to permanent seats.
IMG_8885.jpeg

It was a perfect day for painting, and it turned out good. I have to be patient. I found setting a 10 minute timer for letting the paint flash helps. That way I don't spray too much too soon, and I don't wander off on something else and forget. Anyway, it's good to have it done, and I feel better about my paint skills.
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timsresort said:
I know, it should be running by now. Here's what's happening. I decided to go with a LS2 Trailblazer SS intake, because it's slightly shorter, and has good flow, so why not? Well, now I see why. The TBSS intake I bought came with E85 injectors, which I didn't notice until I went to program the Terminator X. So, I went shopping for injectors that fit the TBSS manifold, that Holley recognizes. And yes, I could buy them from someone that has them in a few days, but they cost $80 each. So, instead, I bought genuine GM on Ebay for 1/8 the price, and it takes a week. Got them today. They are too short, and this is a known issue, so ICT Billet makes spacers that solve the shortness. I can pick those up at Summit tomorrow. Rant over.
Anyhoo... over the weekend, it was nice, so I decided to paint the grille so I don't have to drain the cooling system later to paint. So I hung the grille.
IMG_8882.jpeg

I mixed up some Woodstock Green Poly, about 6 ounces, and 3 coats 10 minutes apart, it's done.
IMG_8883.jpeg

Then I turned back to the rocker guards. A little welding to finish the stretch, and some bedliner, they are ready to go on after bodywork.
IMG_8884.jpeg

And some touch up and paint on the seat mount. I added a center support to reduce flex. This means I'm close to permanent seats.
IMG_8885.jpeg

It was a perfect day for painting, and it turned out good. I have to be patient. I found setting a 10 minute timer for letting the paint flash helps. That way I don't spray too much too soon, and I don't wander off on something else and forget. Anyway, it's good to have it done, and I feel better about my paint skills.
IMG_8887.jpeg
Click to expand...
I see an M37 and M274 in the background Nice!
 
Not as sexy as hearing my LS run, but also needed. The Warn 8274 (DOB 1-17-78), needs a lot, and I can work on it a little at a time after work. First, more disassembly, to get the drum off, I have to crack it open.
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Drum bead blasted and painted. This is the easy part.
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Next, I need to rebuild the brake assembly. I bought a bunch of parts from Montana Jack's Outpost.
They have everything I need for a 8274 rebuild. First I need to get the brake assembly out of the housing so I can disassemble.
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That wasn't too bad, just rotate a locking plate and tap the shaft out of the housing. Once in the vise, I thought I could use a puller (cheap HF) to pull the drum. Yeah, no. It was frozen on there, with heat, still nothing until I broke the high quality chinesium puller.
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So into the press. With about as much pressure as I thought it could take, and some heat, it finally (ka-bang) let loose.
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