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Woodstock

Rozcoking23 said:
What’s left to do to frame before it’s ready for the body? Other then motor/ tranny, transfer case.
Click to expand...
The list:
Motor back in
Transfer case on
Overdrive rebuild and install
Brake lines complete around the front
Line lock, prop. valve plumbed
Fuel filler lines
Fuel vent, rollover valve inst.
Splice fuel sender
Body heat shield
Gauges and elec. out of dash while body on side
Cam sensor (back of block hard to get to)
Oil press. sender
Starter
Crank position sensor

Then I'm ready. I'll make it.
 
Some of the last frame work. The proportioning valve, line lock for the rear, and brake lines around the front to the front flex lines are done.
IMG_8514.jpeg

Stainless braided -3 lines from WFO. "For offroad use only", not sure why. And so is almost everything I have bought for the 5.3. Must be a liability thing. 20"long, should be enough travel.
IMG_8515.jpeg

Next, heat shield. I have seen a product like this used successfully, and I think it really helps keeep the heat out of the cab. This is from DEI, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-050503?rrec=true bought at Summit, and is aluminum backed, and has a super sticky peel off adhesive. Since the under-body is freshly painted and clean, this should stick very well.
IMG_8518.jpeg

I got to work making templates with the material I had at hand.
IMG_8520.jpeg

I am mostly putting this stuff above the exhaust, or wherever this roll will get me. And yes, once it's on, it's not coming off.
IMG_8521.jpeg
 
I got the Dana 18 up on the table for inspection. I built this a few years ago out of a D20 case and 3.15 gears. The end play is a little loose, so I will set that up again.
IMG_8525.jpeg

I ended up taking 1 shim out (about 10 thou), and it's good and snug now. Then I set the motor back in, and put bolts through the motor mounts. That felt good, it's finally in for good. The transfer case goes on really quickly from the top, new gasket, and about 5 minutes later it's done.
IMG_8532.jpeg

This has all been mocked up before, so it goes together pretty easily. The items on my list are starting to go faster.
IMG_8527.jpeg

Now the transmission and transfer case are final-bolted to the crossmember, and I have the torque mount donut in. I also dug up the front driveshaft and mocked it in there.
IMG_8530.jpeg

This is going to be too short, as the motor went back and the axle went forward. I think about 4" combined. This is a long travel PTO spline DS I got from Driveline Service in Carson City 10 years ago. I'll take it back and see if he can stretch it. I am also a little concerned with clearance. It misses the transmission fine, but will get close to the pan on full stuff. I'll check that when I get it on a ramp.
IMG_8534.jpeg
 
I haven’t been on the site for quite some time. Read through all 39 pages and wow, the trials and tribulations you and this machine have been through over the decades. Great fabrication, problem solving and quick thinking trail repairs are first rate. I’m following and cheering this gets completed prior to your due date.
 
Oldriginal86 said:
I haven’t been on the site for quite some time. Read through all 39 pages and wow, the trials and tribulations you and this machine have been through over the decades. Great fabrication, problem solving and quick thinking trail repairs are first rate. I’m following and cheering this gets completed prior to your due date.
Click to expand...
Thanks for following. Yes, if I think about it, it has been a long journey, but it's what I do to have fun. I am feeling better about getting finished, so stay tuned.
 
I need to fill the hole on the transfer case, and of course that would be with a Warn overdrive. I have only had the overdrive for a few seasons, but it goes very well with the 3.15 low gears, because 1-over is like my old low of 94:1, and is used much more than 119:1. Anyway, when I removed it, I noticed it was a little loose, and on inspection, I was missing a spacer on the adapter spud shaft that allowed it to move in and out a little. I think that would explain some noise and some hard shifting. So, I need some small parts. I got out my vintage Warn book and ordered some parts from Advance Adapters.
IMG_8539.jpeg

Parts from AA arrived neatly packaged. I am sure glad I can get these from AA, and not you-know-who. I got new synchros, thrust bearings and races, and the spacer that goes where the PTO output gear was. Yes, for the first time in my life an overdrive on my jeep does not have a PTO on it.
IMG_8537.jpeg

Disassembled the bowl gear to replace the bad bearings in it, and installed the new synchros and little dogs in the main housing.
IMG_85381.jpeg

Installed the bowl gear in the transfer case and torqued to 100 lb. I got pretty lucky, as the washer and snap ring went right in on the first try. That never happens when doing it from below.
IMG_8540.jpeg

I installed the main housing, and dug up the rear bearing cap, that I took off when I did the PTO. Also connected the shift linkage. I hope this little tune up will make it shift better, and maybe quiet down a little. One more step towards getting the tub on.
IMG_8541.jpeg
 
timsresort said:
I need to fill the hole on the transfer case, and of course that would be with a Warn overdrive. I have only had the overdrive for a few seasons, but it goes very well with the 3.15 low gears, because 1-over is like my old low of 94:1, and is used much more than 119:1. Anyway, when I removed it, I noticed it was a little loose, and on inspection, I was missing a spacer on the adapter spud shaft that allowed it to move in and out a little. I think that would explain some noise and some hard shifting. So, I need some small parts. I got out my vintage Warn book and ordered some parts from Advance Adapters.
IMG_8539.jpeg

Parts from AA arrived neatly packaged. I am sure glad I can get these from AA, and not you-know-who. I got new synchros, thrust bearings and races, and the spacer that goes where the PTO output gear was. Yes, for the first time in my life an overdrive on my jeep does not have a PTO on it.
IMG_8537.jpeg

Disassembled the bowl gear to replace the bad bearings in it, and installed the new synchros and little dogs in the main housing.
IMG_85381.jpeg

Installed the bowl gear in the transfer case and torqued to 100 lb. I got pretty lucky, as the washer and snap ring went right in on the first try. That never happens when doing it from below.
IMG_8540.jpeg

I installed the main housing, and dug up the rear bearing cap, that I took off when I did the PTO. Also connected the shift linkage. I hope this little tune up will make it shift better, and maybe quiet down a little. One more step towards getting the tub on.
IMG_8541.jpeg
Click to expand...
Beautiful!
 
I held my breath, and installed the exaust for the last time. I was worried it could have moved during the final welding touch up I did, and not bolt up cleanly to the headers. Amazing what you can worry about in the middle of the night. It's like the meme with the wife in bed "I bet he's thinking of other women...". No, just exhaust. Anyway, it went right in. Exhale.
IMG_8531.jpeg

Last item on the list, finish the under floor heat shield. This went well, and I recommend it.
IMG_8543.jpeg

I did get my Bilsteins from WFO, and test fit the rears. I don't like the boots, so they will probably come off. Now... time for tub on, in (not quite) January. I have the balance point pretty well figured, so this goes pretty fast.
IMG_8544.jpeg

Before I show a side shot of the jeep, I want to put tires under it, so I turn to the beadlock rings that need a little love. I thought about buying new outer rings, but then realized they will just look like this by the end of the summer. So I will just give these a few minutes each with some Scotchbrite.
IMG_85281.jpeg

There, much better. I still like my Raceline Monster beadlocks, and I think they go with this jeep well, so a little clean up was warranted. Next I'll mount up the tires.
IMG_8529.jpeg
 
jeepstar said:
pardon my ignorance, but arent your shocks upside down? thought the boot goes to the top?
Click to expand...
Positioning depends upon how the valving is setup inside. My Rancho 9000 shocks are mounted as you indicated, with the boots on the top. However, my Kings on the JK were mounted with the shaft on the bottom (no boots on the Kings). Just depends upon how the shock is built, but I don’t remember how I mounted the Bilstein shocks on the Gladiator, but I’m too lazy to walk outside in the dark and look under the Jeep.
 
Rozcoking23 said:
Recommended mounting is if filled with oil then boot side up if nitrogen/pressurized then can be mounted either end up, if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

It's whether it's a monotube or twin-tube type shock. You can invert a monotube shock, but you can't invert a twin tube shock.

If you invert a twin tube shock, you end up pushing the nitrogen back and forth through the base valve and not oil:
AP1GczPoPip5ZNzqiK5zImJLcAvdaqaQCnM8vsET9KtC22RSnEdaEReZ9yY4bc5owIBbIDWHjXu_WDviqXXkXIjZ68XFjbqX_I98NyRpqFmkM4XIHeFzZ7ri94IPOzbZuY1BfTDT5w9EqcPpD9PNLmig-Uvt8Q=w800-h600-s-no
 
Back to tires. I soaped up one of the new BFG's and shoved it over the wheel. (With the outer ring off, obviously).
IMG_8545.jpeg

As I said earlier, I thought about buying new rings, but did not, but new bolts were in the budget. 30 grade 8 bolts per wheel.
IMG_8546.jpeg

I set it up on a bucket, then started the process. Hand start the 30 bolts, then a little snug with a impactor, (less than 1 foot/lb). Then, by hand, in a star pattern, 3 rounds of torque, until I reach 18 lbs, then a last trip around to make sure. This is why I am only going to do one of these every day after work, until I'm done.
IMG_8547.jpeg

But after one is done, I can mount it, right? Let's just see what this looks like.
IMG_8549.jpeg

I like it, and had a beer to celebrate. The slightly stretched 3B is really growing on me, to the point where it looks normal whenever I walk out in the garage. It is way too tall here, like 34"under the rocker. It will settle as weight is added. The old jeep was 28", and these are the same springs.
IMG_8551.jpeg
 
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