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What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

I started tearing apart the D30 that's going in the Commando.
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I'd never before taken apart a set of Lockomatic hubs, and the drums and spindles were pretty stubborn, so I spent a solid 2 hours getting it to this point.
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The plan is to convert to factory style disc brakes, and install a True Trac diff. Since it will be automatic transmission, gears will remain 3.73s.
I was debating whether or not to change out ball joints and u joints. They are tight, but they're old and crusty. The rubber boots are hard as a rock. So I've decided to replace everything, seals, bearing, ball joints etc. It'll be expensive but worth it in the long run for peace of mind.
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Edit: just spent 5 bills at Rockauto and East Coast Gear. :( I need a cheaper hobby!
 
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I started tearing apart the D30 that's going in the Commando.
View attachment 103556
I'd never before taken apart a set of Lockomatic hubs, and the drums and spindles were pretty stubborn, so I spent a solid 2 hours getting it to this point.
View attachment 103557
The plan is to convert to factory style disc brakes, and install a True Trac diff. Since it will be automatic transmission, gears will remain 3.73s.
I was debating whether or not to change out ball joints and u joints. They are tight, but they're old and crusty. The rubber boots are hard as a rock. So I've decided to replace everything, seals, bearing, ball joints etc. It'll be expensive but worth it in the long run for peace of mind.
View attachment 103558
I pulled out the old rusty/crusty axles from my D-30, They still appeared tight but replaced the joints anyway. Glasd I did, found them dry and worn inside. I removed them from the housing and stuck then in bucket of old used transmission fluid covering the joints and soaked them a couple weeks. Made disassembly much easier.
 
My el cheapo Harbor Freight press (that I got for free) did a good job pressing out the ball joints on the D30.
View attachment 103575
I’ve had one of these for over a decade, and recently swapped the manual jack for an air/hydraulic jack with a foot control, and man what an improvement! I think it was something like $100 for everything I needed…should have done it years ago.
 
I’ve had one of these for over a decade, and recently swapped the manual jack for an air/hydraulic jack with a foot control, and man what an improvement! I think it was something like $100 for everything I needed…should have done it years ago.
Please do a seperate thread with parts # and pictures. I'd love to do that - but I don't want to reinvent anything.
 
I finally fixed the shock mount I broke back in September... turns out i have a lot more down ward shock travel than i thought on the rear and probably should have moved it while it was off.

I had to unbolt the shackles and swing the axle down about 4" past it's natural drop to get the shock on. No picture. Phone was inside.
 
Fred Williams uses a tool he made with a washer welded to a piece of tubing. This video should start at the right time-stamp:
 
I took my axle housings to the car wash. Shoved there wand down the greasy tube.
 
I have the D30 I'm building stripped down to a bare housing. Problem is, the inside of the tubes are very rusty and crusty. Any ideas how to clean this out?
View attachment 103703
I used to have a chimney brush (about 4’ long) where I clipped the metal bristles shorter. I probably still have that up at Hatteras, NC. I would chuck that in a variable speed drill.
 
Put a new master cylinder on the 71 along either new lines from there to the distribution block. I installed them in reverse when I built this heep way when Moby Dick was a minnow. Not sure if actually matters with drums all the way around but it bothered me. Plus the old lines were too close to the exhaust header for my liking do I ran them back under the toe board and the front to the block. Also put 11 inchers on the back finally so I’ve got 11s at all four corners now. Still have to trudge through the bleeding process.
 
Put a new master cylinder on the 71 along either new lines from there to the distribution block. I installed them in reverse when I built this heep way when Moby Dick was a minnow. Not sure if actually matters with drums all the way around but it bothered me. Plus the old lines were too close to the exhaust header for my liking do I ran them back under the toe board and the front to the block. Also put 11 inchers on the back finally so I’ve got 11s at all four corners now. Still have to trudge through the bleeding process.
Wish I had 11"
 
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