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Converting Dauntless 225 to Automatic

You'd also want to make sure you find an automatic with a lock up torque converter, otherwise you'll negate a lot of the benefit of the OD due to torque converter slippage. TH350C vs. TH350 for example.
 
I would imagine that you would want to add power brakes at the same time, or at least an upgrade over the stock brakes.
 
Norcal69 said:
I would imagine that you would want to add power brakes at the same time, or at least an upgrade over the stock brakes.
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Yes. I'm running a slightly warmed over Dauntless with 4.88's and 3:15 Tera Low gears, TH350 with a ~1600RPM stall converter and with 11" rear drums and front disc, it's almost too much in low range.
 
timgr said:
but I believe you don't need as low a crawl ratio with an automatic as you would with a manual transmission. The two-footed style means you don't have to move forward until the stall speed of the converter is reached... this is typically 1500-1800 RPM for factory converters. Plus the converter multiplies torque from the engine at stall by roughly 2:1, so in terms of torque available you have twice the reduction of a comparable geared vehicle. And, you can control your forward speed by releasing power as you need it by letting up on the brakes.

The truck 4-speeds are great if that's the style of driving that you want. An automatic will be different, and have different trade-offs.
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Yes. I do like my manual transmissions, but for off road technical stuff, the automatic is a far better choice IMO, with the exception of steep downhill runs.
 
If you have a lock-up converter, can't you flip a switch and force the converter to stay locked for compression braking? I'd think that would be a useful feature for steep downhill.
 
timgr said:
If you have a lock-up converter, can't you flip a switch and force the converter to stay locked for compression braking? I'd think that would be a useful feature for steep downhill.
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Yes, and I've though about that. I'd really like a 700R4, but as I said, I just don't think it's feasible without moving the engine forward.
Mine works well enough as-is, and I'm not sure how hard it would be to find a BOP TH350C
 
When I rebuilt my '61, I put in a SBC and 400 transmission. As Patrick said " driveshaft is short". Mine is about 13" from u-joint centers. My Jeep is my hot rod, not an off-road beast. Really fun to drive. It's in the plans to install a 700R4 to lower the rpm a little. They make adapters and about the same length as a 350.
 
Hello
I know this thread is forever old but I wanted to chime in and comment but add a question. I currently have 1969 ‘5 with a warmed 225, locked 4.88 diffs, TH350, D18 t-case (Terras) and OD. Wheels and shifts like a dream, but OD DOES require a shift to neutral. Rolls down the road as fast as you’d want.

Question to those who have a similar auto
Setup. My converter stall is 1500+/- and in high range doesn’t allow for a great launch to traverse steep sand dunes. Thinking about 2000rpm but concerned about the heat when going slow. Does anyone have a convertor range and mfr that handles this scenario but can also chug along for crawling..?
Yes, I want the cake and eat it too. Haha
Thanks
 
Machine said:
Hello
I know this thread is forever old but I wanted to chime in and comment but add a question. I currently have 1969 ‘5 with a warmed 225, locked 4.88 diffs, TH350, D18 t-case (Terras) and OD. Wheels and shifts like a dream, but OD DOES require a shift to neutral. Rolls down the road as fast as you’d want.

Question to those who have a similar auto
Setup. My converter stall is 1500+/- and in high range doesn’t allow for a great launch to traverse steep sand dunes. Thinking about 2000rpm but concerned about the heat when going slow. Does anyone have a convertor range and mfr that handles this scenario but can also chug along for crawling..?
Yes, I want the cake and eat it too. Haha
Thanks
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I have no experience 4 wheeling whith an auto transmission but I do have some experience with muscle cars running a high stall converter. I think it would be pretty much useless for low speed crawling. Like you said, you want your cake &eat it too.
 
I have a the same setup (see my signature). I love my setup. High stall seems like a terrible idea. You want to stay below your stall speed while crawling. This way you have torque multiplication at low rpm. I would go to 5.38 gears with 33 or 35s and OD so you can drive on the highway.

I confront a lot of different terrain and don't want to get stuck way out in the desert with my wife. I have to be able to float on desert washes and climb steep tight mixed trails. I rarely even slip a tire. When you have the right setup it's relaxing and you don't worry about getting stuck.
 
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Machine said:
Thanks for the feedback!
53A1, what stall do you currently run?
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Sorry I was outa town. I run stock around 1500.

Peak torque is pretty low in the 225, I think it starts around 1900 rpm. I crawl around at 1500 to 2k so you're almost at stall so it's not mushy yet you get a torque multiplier and the engine is producing good torque. The heavy flywheel or torque converter in our case smooths out the thottle response so you don't break loose.

I watched a guy climb up a mixed terrain hill (gravel, send rocks bends, ruts) in a pickup in 4WD low and he ended up having to gun it. Didn't look relaxing at all. He started fish tailing, axle hopping and finally made it up. When he left, as a test my wife and I went up the same hill in a slow crawl with the lockers engaged. Didn't slip the tires once. This is how I like to climb around because I need to keep it safe.
 
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Also, you can't use a deep sump and I had to bend the corner of the tranny pan a very small amount. No big deal. Yep, you need a bop 350 and a short tail stock and the adapter kit for your tranfer case. You need a small yoke u-joint and shorten rear drive shaft. I have a small trans cooler and my trans runs very cool even on the hot days. Even a stock 350 trans is way over built for the CJ. The engine is a different story. I had to install a Spal to keep the temps down in the 225. Your transfer case will drop down a couple inches. Just redrill on frame, move mount and use bushings to drop cross member.

You have to figure out your shifting setup but a GM tilt column is ideal. It has the shifting flange that comes off the bottom just after the firewall and all you need it a short piece of rod to connect to the TH350 shift arm. Your shifters will be moved back a little bit but not much, maybe a couple inches. You do have to heat and bend the trans case and OD shift arms straight. Not a big deal.

I've had ZERO problems.
 
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I have a TH350 that was used in a Dauntless, already has the conversion to Model 18 T-case. It was going to go into my old Jeep, Posimoto, but I never put it in. If you are interested let me know. sierraflooring@hotmail.com I bought this tranny from tarry99 who, I think, bought it from mikes66? 67? It's sitting in my shop and would love a new home.

I think you would need to convert to power brakes to be happy with the stopping aspect. My current Jeep is an auto and I can tell you it's absolutely awesome for offroad. Never stall on a climb again. Never have to do the gas, brake, clutch dance again after stalling on a climb. I would never go back. But, that's just my opinion, and you know how that goes. Hahaha
John
 
Patrick said:
Yes. I do like my manual transmissions, but for off road technical stuff, the automatic is a far better choice IMO, with the exception of steep downhill runs.
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I agree. I find the manual is too much work if you get in a bind but they offer the ability to get some ridiculously low crawl rations for pretty cheap. I have pretty good engine braking but nothing like a manual. I would recommend at least 11 inch brakes.
 
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