worth going from 10" brakes to 11"?

Steamer, yes, I understood that was what you were told. Not meant to be a putdown of you or what you did - I just believe that the claim is not correct.

 

hmm anyone drilled 9" brakes to see how they do?

 

Okay - in the name of Jeep-kind, I'll boldly go where no man has gone before...

Mike - I'm sending you a PM.

 

I'm still running 10"ers and find no problem with them. Sure, you have to press hard, but I grew up on non power brake, small brake cars in the 50's & '60's.

Only mod I'm going to do is to have the 10" drums drilled.

 

You said more than a mouthful there! I'm not kidding, my right quadracept will be completely exhausted after driving in the mountains for a while. To the point that if I sit down, my leg will be shaking. It's rediculous! And I'm not bragging, but I've done my share of physical activity, and consider my legs pretty fit. I ran cross country in high school and college and I still hike a pretty good bit. Either something is a little off in the brake system somewhere, or I'm just becoming a wuss!!!

Since drilling the drums won't cost very much at all, and even if it does nothing to improve performance, I won't have lost anything - I'm willing to try it before going to discs.

 

Simple, you are removing equal amounts of material in a predetermined pattern around the whole assembly.
The biggest reason engine parts are balanced as an assembly is because they are cast and casting has inherent flaws compared to machining from solid stock. When you tear down an old engine and check the various weights of the pistons and then check modern ones you will find modern ones are far more similar in weight than ones made 25 years ago. Now drilling them by eye with a mylar tape is not gonna be as accurate as Billy or I doing it on an indexing fixture but it won't be far enough off for you to notice under normal conditions. Tires are far different than the drums as they are larger in diameter and the balance is affected more due to that, that is why when a weight flys off the wheel you usually notice it quicker.

 

Thats what I would do Bill, since your using a dividing head.

 

I have an old article here somewhere about drilling holes for baja bugs. If I can find it I'll get it scanned and send to someone who can look it over and post it if they want to.

 

I converted my 71 to 11" brakes quite a few years back, it increased my braking power and resolved my brake fade problem. The first set of brake shoes always had a problem when they were wet, the second set of brake shoes that I ran were Velvet Touch brake shoes, the Velvet Touch brake shoes were a metalic composition so they were a little harder on the drums but when they were wet there was no change in braking power. I do not know if the Velvet Touch brake shoes are still available.

I would be appreciative if I could barrow Lynn's template for drilling the 11" drums, I would like to make a copy. Thank you.

 

hmmm.. i've learned more about brakes in these 4 pages of replies than i have almost anywhere else.

i cancelled my order at the salvage yard for the 11's for now. if i eventually drill my 10's what should i look for as far as capabilities or machinery that the shop i choose needs?

 

my Jeep came with original 9" front and rear (lousy)
I upgraded with (take-offs) 10" front and rear (good)
then I bought new 11" front and rear (better)
I now have disc up front and 11" rears BEST
each change made a difference in braking ability
I guess I have tried them all and like my curret set-up

 

jp,

thanks. i sort of figured that would be the ranking. i suspect that that is what i will eventually end up with (disks front, 10's or 11's rear).

the rest of y'all,
curious though, to see how drilling the 10" drums will work if some one tries it.

for now i will be happy to simply simply finish my steering repairs. hopefully the frame gets welded on tues. this week! man... i am getting impatient. but just trying to plan ahead a bit. it's always dangerous when i have to think.