Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by colojeepguy, Aug 18, 2016.
Tim's post does what you are asking for. He lists 2 options.
I have an idea of how to wire in a diode. I'll have to order a few so I can try it and then post my results.
I did find an inline diode that looks like a fuse. It might be great for easy install and protecting the diode. I just have to search for the correct rating.
That's cool but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Heck, with that you could just put an inline fuse holder in the circuit and plug it in.
Yep... Easy breezy.
Amazon.com: Hopkins 48955 Towed Vehicle Diodes Kit: Automotive
I just spent time drawing this...You have to identify your Jeep's wire colors.
Google Is Your Friend
For some reason the wire are all copper coloured
PS- why are your tail lights wired through the turn signal?? Thats just weird
Mine looks easier.
Yeah... Yeah... Yeah... I know... Those go to the light switch.
Edit - Fixed
Many years ago I did the 3 toggle switch method on my CJ5....3 switches on the dash works for me.
The local trailer hitch shop has a bubble pack with three diodes that have leads for wiring into your circuit.Pretty easy.
Now that's funny.
You could simply mount two taillights on a piece of plywood and fit two rods or pipes to fit into the rear bow pockets. The make a simple wiring harness that you can bring forward to the front bumper. I had a built-in plug with a toggle switch to work the vehicle lights while towing. It was complicated and a PITA. I am building the two-lights-on-a-board solution.
I have my TJ wired up with diodes and a plug that tucks behind grill bar that works great ,but for the '71 renegade II I didn't want to modify anything so I use H/F magnetic lights .Cheap and easy to take off and on. mike
I added the sockets in the factory lights on my TJ.
When Steve and I rewired my jeep, we ran everything keyed so that if the key was not on, no power could be drawn everywhere. Pretty much keeps me from leaving the headlights on or battery going dead when out in the meddle of no where. Side note, I drive with my headlights on day and night, too many close calls. My setup is wired in to the harness, after the key of course, near the rear of the jeep. Works just like a normal trailer.
I used to have magnetic auxiliary lights. Got tired of them.
My truck has a 7 pin connector so that is the route I went. My custom tow bar has the harness run inside the tubing with a plug (male/male) each end. There is another 7 pin socket mounted on the front bumper. I use a single multi-pole switch on the instrument panel to prevent feedback. However, the truck has 3-channel lights and my jeep has 4-channel (separate left/right/brake/tail) so I installed a converter. And for an extra level or coolness I wired in the reverse lights as well.
Cool! Most of the trailer connector schematics show one of the standard pin ***ignments as back-up lights. Seems like a big rig thing, but it would be useful. People take the backup lights as a warning, as well as lighting where you are going. Kinda think it's a bit futile, since I was never able to back up my flat-towed CJ more than a few feet. Maybe others know better how to do this.
I'm impressed with your documentation - how did you draw the print?
Yes Tim, backing up a flat tow is no fun. Pretty much straight line. It has been handy, backing down a straight, narrow dirt road a short distance because I missed a turn at night.
The electrical system is my own design, drew it in AutoCAD, a daily tool from an earlier career. I've since broken the schematic into about a dozen systems (ignition, charging, lighting, etc) as above. Each printed and laminated on 8.5x5.5 cards I keep in one of the tool boxes.
Just get this:
For wiring diagram do a search for "towing diode isolator tail light wiring" and display images.
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