Which Carter Carb

I have two different Carter Carbs, a YF and Ball and Ball. Both need to be rebuilt. Can anyone tell me which is a better carb for the F134 4 cylinder?

 

A Carter, Ball and Ball?? You got me there.

 

It was on the Jeep when I got it. The replacement motor has the YF on it.

The Ball and Ball carbs were used on early Chrysler motors. From what I read. There is a guy on YouTube that has great videos of rebuilding each. I sent a message to him over a month ago but got no reply.

 

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2011/02/Carter-Carburetors/3695261.html

Here is a good article on the BB1

 

You need the YF.

 

Can you explain why?

 

I have two 134F head motors, they both have Carter YF carbs. I have put kits in both of them, one of the kits was so bad the only thing I used was the gaskets, and had to modify them. The jets were wrong, the needle was wrong my motor would hardly run, I took it apart and put all the original parts back it, with the new gaskets and it runs right. The other one I got a better kit, took it apart, cleaned it with carb cleaner, blew out every orifice until it was clean, put in all the new parts and it has worked perfect for over 10 years now. Starts right up, runs cold, when it is warm it idles perfect, goes through acceleration smooth and returns to idle. No coughing sputtering or anything. I think I would work on keeping the Carter YF, and fixing what don't work. good Luck

 

Rebuild the yf I recommend the harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning it works great.

 

I defer to Scoutpilot's great depth of knowledge on carbs.

However, one reason may be that the YF as set up for Jeeps, is equipped for rough duty and steep slopes, etc.

It is important to get the correct rebuild kit, which for instance has a smaller float valve orifice, and a spring loaded float needle. Many generic kits do not have the right parts for Jeep application.

When people lose faith in their YF carbs it often is because of air leakage due to wear around the throttle plate shaft. That can be rebushed and corrected

 

Thanks, the Jeep starts, run and idles. But the float keeps sticking and I have to tap the carb in different places to make it stop. I don’t recall here being a spring on the float needle so maybe a PO lost it or forgot to put it back in. There is a lot of pitting on the bottom of the bowl as well.

I will order a kit for the YF as it is obviously designed for this application.

Thanks again for the help. I can always rebuild the BB1 and have a spare carb ready should the YF fail, though doubtful.

 

Thank you for detailed answer. I do get some coughing and spluttering, but it is much less now that I found and stopped a vacuum leak.

 

Thanks, I will check out that cleaner, I also recall someone else in another thread uses Toilet Bowl cleaner.

 

The reason for the smaller "Jeep" valve orifice is to reduce opening pressure on the float.

Also fuel pump delivery (static) pressure should be no more than 2.5 to 3 psi for the YF. Some folks like to install an in-line adjustable regulator before the carb.

 

I vote YF, it also took me 2 or 3 attempts at cleaning and adjustments, but now
It starts cold, idles well down to 600rpm. When warm no hesitation and pulls
From idle to 3800rpm (My self set redline).
My original was junk, this one came off an AMC inline 6.

 

Smaller orifice... are you referring to the brass fitting on the front of carb?

I am running the stock fuel pump with glass top. I would assume pressure should be normal though it’s possible it could be high. I have no way to check. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge.

 

No, the diameter of the fuel passage in the needle-valve seat.

Less square inches equals less pressure to push the float down. Thus less flooding on rough terrain.

 

A combo pressure/vacuum gauge is one of the most useful tools to own, and incredibly cheap to buy.

 

Maybe Red Green can help here.

 

A lot of great advice here. The YF was designed to fit many different motors. The kit most available in today's market is for the 300CI Ford Six Cylinder, Inline motor. that's why most folks who do it themselves have problems. If you buy the one from Mike's Carbs, it has three different needle and seat combos. each one requires a different setting for the float. I recommend the kit from Pete DeBella as it has the correct all-metal needle and seat with spring loaded pin. On the subject of floats. Make sure the float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Also, make sure the tang of the float that contacts the needle isn't gouged. A gouge here will cause the needle to cock off center and flooding will ensue. More questions? Just ask.

 

Thanks Scoutpilot. I really appreciate it.