Which 4-speed?

I tried having a long factory input shortened. The shop gave up when the 3rd bit broke. It was barely touched.

 

I was told, and the tag verifies, that the transmission came out of a 1968 Ford 3/4 ton pickup(2WD). I will open it up and check the condition. He seemed pretty confident that I could just run it as is, I'm hoping he is right. I realize there is more work to do, I'm going to see if I can scrounge as much as I can to keep the cost down(that will be part of the fun!) I have a friend who can do the machining I need on a few parts. I'm not afraid of doing some drilling and tapping. If the scrounging route doesn't pan out, I can get a spendy kit.

 

1968 will work just fine. Has the early non-plastic tipped shift forks.

Yeah but because of the drilling and tapping you'll have to dis-assemble and rebuild it anyway.
You'll want to take yours apart and check condition of needle rollers, bronze blocking rings and all other parts.

I have a NOS AMC rebuild kit .
They are Jeep sized parts... so fit depends on what specific parts you may need.
After you know what you need PM me on it if your interested.

 

I'll try to get it open and inspected in the next few days.

 

The Bell Housing on the Left is the Advanced Adapter Housing specifically built for the Buick V6 that adapts several transmissions including the Ford T-18 to the V6..... The Housing on the Right is the stock Buick housing which can be adapted to fit the Ford B&W T-18 as you now have, just need to relocate two holes in a different position.

I sold the A&A Housing to a member here but I still have the OEM Buick housing...........

And just for pictures sake here is allot of the internal components of the Ford T-18 especially the parts that get abused.........including an A&A adapter and short shaft for the Dana 18 TC.

Good Luck on your project....

 

My $1.5 cents worth...

The Ford T18 is by far the easiest to adapt of all the different T18 iterations due to its 6.5" input shaft length. Stay away from the J series and IH stuff. They all require input shaft changes that the Ford does not. You can either modify the Buick bell or get an AA bell like Tarry mentioned. Easy Peasy. Both AA and Novak will have the correct pilot bushing for the Ford input, and they will also have the proper clutch disc for the Ford input shaft. You are already aware that you need to adapt to your D18 with either factory mainshaft and plate or aftermarket from AA or Novak. Crossmember mods may be needed as well as floorpan, driveshaft length, and clutch linkage mods. Sounds like a lot but you'll LOVE it when you're done, and you only have to do it once.

Send us some pics when you're done with it.

FWIW,
Mike

 

I finished cleaning up the out side and took the cover off, first and reverse are a little dinged up but everything else looks good to my untrained eye. The close-up is the worst part I found.
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Drilling and tapping the transmission/bell housing looks to be pretty do-able. Preliminary measuring looks like my transfer case will be about 2" back from where it is now, so yes, I expect to move the cross member and alter driveshafts too. Floor pan won't be a problem, and I already have the AA chain clutch linkage.
Thanks again for the encouraging words, I'm getting kinda excited about this.

 

That sliding spur gear with the chipped teeth is first. There is also a small intermediate gear for reverse down in the case which gets abused too. I expect these gears get chipped by novice drivers that don't understand what damage they are doing by grinding first gear. You can get replacement gears from Parts Mike and other places if you want them to be perfect. You can also hone the chipped teeth smooth with a stone ... that will shift a little better than the chipped teeth, and should be a little stronger because of the removal of sharp edges. A CJ is so light compared to the trucks this transmission was intended for, those chipped teeth are likely irrelevant - except for smooth meshing - to future use.

If you want to shift into first while moving, I suggest you learn to double clutch.

 

That particular gear doesn't look to bad.......take a small die grinder or even a small du-more and re-shape the tips ...........don't get carried away just round off the sharp ends.....likewise the counter shaft below probably has similar damage.....If the reverse idler is damaged just change it........easy to do.............and make sure you verify that the input shaft gear has 17 teeth..........for a 6:32 low gear.

 

Moser did mine with no issues. I'm running a shortened long-input T18 in my 3B behind the 134.

$75 for the respline service.
Shop Services « Moser Engineering

 

Hmmm might need to call on Moser some day...........

That 1st reverse slide gear looks about average condition.
It most certainly remains in usable condition.

After you get it apart you'll wanna take a close look inside the bronze blocking rings.
You'll want to dislodge any and all imbedded steel fragments from the cone faces.
Re-use them IF the face striations are crisp.

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll be doing some polishing soon.
Double clutching... The first vehicle I had was a '62 Ford pickup with a sloppy "3-on-the-tree" and bad syncro's. I had to double clutch every gear! My left leg got bigger muscles than my right because of it. It was weird driving a vehicle that I didn't have to double clutch...