Where to start?

What should the timing advance and idle speed be for the F134?

 

Book calls for 5 degrees before top dead center and 600. My engine is happier at 10 degrees before TDC and 1,000 rpm. Point gap is .020 to .022 inch and the spark plugs are .030 inch.

 

Double post.

 

Best christmas present you can give yourself is a good Factory Service Manual. NOT Haynes or other generics. It will have every spec you ever need.

Try to find a good one, graphics are poor in some of the repops.

 

Yep, winch and overdrive is no good, if the engine won't run... Get it going first, then fix the "stop equipment" etc.

 

Whats wrong with the OD?

 

He means the OD doesn't do him any good if the engine isn't turning I expect...
Like others said, fix the Go part, then fix the Stop part, then fix the Turn part.
Then have Fun!

BTW, be careful with that PTO winch. The idea of those things kind of scares me if you are operating by yourself. Once the clutch is released and that thing is turning, nothing will stop it, and if there is tension on the cable I don't think you would be able to declutch the winch itself. You might think about an engine kill switch that you can reach from the front bumper area.

Don

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't you have to be in the driver's seat to operate a pto winch? I don't have one.

But thinking on it you need to engage the clutch to operate right?

 

Yes, you would need to engage the main vehicle clutch to get the driveshaft turning. But, there is also another clutch on the winch itself. This has engagement dogs, so there is no way to 'feather' in the engagement. Also, once there is tension on the cable the engagement dogs will be pretty well locked.
Whether you are in the drivers seat probably depends on what you are using the winch for. For self recovery of a stuck Jeep, you would likely want to stay in the drivers position.

If on the other hand you were moving something external or simply re-spooling the line on the drum you might be standing near the winch.

 

I second everything djbutler is saying about safety.

PTO winches are great. But they can invisibly build up enormous forces that need to be managed with care, or they can surprise you. They will easily pull apart a jeep frame, for instance, or snap a chain.

One foot on the clutch is a good rule.

 

Didn't have much time to work on it today but I did manage to move it back and forth in the driveway under its own power in 1st and reverse. So far so good.

 

Question: is the Warn overdrive engaged when the shifter is forward or when its pulled back?

 

The overdrive box is engaged all of the time.........one direction is direct drive 1:1 and the other would be 25% overdrive......

 

toward the rear is 1:1 -- no overdrive
toward the front is .75:1 -- overdrive engaged

 

what about if they are mounted to the rear of an overdrive unit? Does that change any thing other than placing the PTO to the rear three inches (give or take)?

 

So, what brake fluid do I use in this year model? (BTW, the factory service manual has been ordered and is on the way)

 

dot3.

 

They still work the same, yes, they can still pull a Jeep apart, even while idling in 2 nd if you have a v6.

Over the last few years, whenever there is a serious winch situation, (both of my Jeeping friends have electrc winches)
My 3B is the go to vehicle with the Konig PTO winch.
It's also possible to overheat a PTO winch, but it tskes about 6 hrs. of continous use.

I've been running this 3B Jeep for over 30 years, it would er my DD except for a medical issue so I don't have the hard top on now.

My Volvo decided to puke it's exhaust pipe this AM.

I'll drive the Commando to the hospital tomorrow.

 

Progress report: The engine jumps to life with just a touch of the key and hold 40 psi of oil pressure so that's good. I put it up on jack stands and ran through the gears including reverse and overdrive and everything seems in order so that's good. The PS hub either doesn't lock or I have a broken axle shaft so that will need to be sorted. The driver side seems to be OK.

Now for a couple of oddities (at least for me). When in 4WD the front axle turns faster than the rear - no difference high or low range. At first I thought that the diff gears must be different but when I applied a piece of clocking tape to the bottom of the front and back tires for a reference and turned the back tire by hand I get exactly two front rotations for every rear rotation. It must be the transfer case but I can't seem to come up shifter combination that works. (The dash sticker shows left shifter is the front axle in or out control and the right shifter is the high/low range selector.)

 

You say one hub is not locking in or a broken front axle? If a wheel is turning faster on one side then the other because of this that could be throwing you off. No way the transfer case can be driving the front different then the rear unless one is in neutral. If you really want to verify the front to rear axle ratios then pull the diff covers. You can count the teeth on the ring and pinion and do the math or look at the numbers stamped on the edge of the ring gear.


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