Where to start?

I just bought this 66 CJ5 for a winter project. It wasn't running when I got it so I'm in the process of taking inventory. The F134 fires beautifully with a little fuel poured into the carb but dies right away. The brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. It has a really cool Warn overdrive and a PTO powered Ramsey winch but like I said, the condition is unknown. All that being said, is there a good tried and true logical progression for restoration of this type?

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Start, stop, move.

That's my order anyway!

Love the Ramsey and the Warn Overdrive! Where's the rest of it? I see the PTO shifter on the floor, but not the winch.

 

Nice jeep, Love the 5 shifters.

get it running (Ignition tune up and address fuel issues if you have any), then do the brakes, then figure out what you need from there.

 

The winch seems to be intact but the drive shaft is missing. (overlooked in my hast to get it on the trailer) My guess is that the drive shaft was removed when the headers were installed because of clearance? There may be a straight shot past the pipes but I won't know until I get it mounted.

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I think the multiple shifters was what sold me

 

Also included were the original 1966 title and Bill of Sale.
The base price was $2239.58
Optional Equipment and Accessories Installed by Manufacturer:
Tires $27.92
Locking Differential $44.65
Fresh Air Heater 82.42
Front Passenger Seat $54.00
Black Nylon Top $125.00
Automatic Hubs $78.50
Total Amount $2526.65

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Hold on tight to that.You don't see those very often.

As far as the driveshaft goes, I seem to recall it running near where the header sits, so you may be right. What model is that winch? 200?

 

That is awesome $2500 dollars new! Is that the over drive shifter next the transmission shifter it kinds looks like one for a warn overdrive?

 

Before any restoration, I would make the Jeep start, stop, move as mentioned. You need both power and brakes to drive it, so that's where to start.

JMO you should drive it a while before you make any big plans.

Don't drive it any more than putt-putt in your driveway without a front bumper - the front bumper is structural on these Jeeps. The original bumper would have been riveted in place, but they get bent and replacements are bolted on.

 

Yes it is, he said it has one.

 

Please do not take it all apart. Far too many of these Jeeps get torn apart and never get put back together. As mentioned, please fix the little things before making huge decisions on component replacement.

 

I want that tub !!!!

 

"JR246R" is stamped on the ID plate of the winch. 8000lb

 

x10!

That was a lot of money when new. At the time, I recall a new Mustang could be had for under $2000.

Very likely the headers caused a clearance problem. Even the original front pipe had to be bent outboard slightly to clear the PTO winch driveshaft.

PTO winches are doubleplus-good!

 

It lives! I tore down and cleaned the Solex carburetor and that seemed to solve the fuel delivery problem. I am actually amazed by how smooth it idles with just a shot from the hip for a carb adjustment. Tomorrow I hope to spend some more time with the motor. What should the timing and idle speed be for the F134?

 

I love the concept of the PTO winch but I'm still trying to get my mind around how to use it on the trail. Do you put the transfer case in neutral and let the winch dead pull or do you leave the axles engaged and pull and climb at the same time? Do you clutch or shift the PTO to pause a pull? I bet you can really spool lose line fast in OD!

 

Ok, now bolt on the front bumper. Use grade 8 nuts and bolts, as big as the alignment holes will handle and torque them up. The torques for the different size bolts and nuts is available on line (NAPA would probably be a good source). Probably on the order of 75 foot-pounds. but get that from the bolt makers.

Then pull the little round cover that is below the pedals. The brake master cylinder lives under there. May take a Crescent wrench, or some one here knows the size wrench to use. I do not remember right off hand. Loosen it by wrench then remove by hand. Now you can check and refill the reservoir level. If you have no brake peddle pressure, and you think it has been a while without, better plan on replacing the master, and maybe the slave cylinders. And consider converting to 10" or 11" brakes if you have to replace stuff at the axle end of things. I understand the 11" are more abundant, and cheaper to acquire.

Then check to see if you have brake lights, headlights, taillights, and turn signals. Which is basically your whole electrical system with one of these old CJ5's.

 

All of the above. Just don't let the line get slack when winching in if you have the axles pulling too - serious damage can happen to anything the line loops around, even the winch itself. Better to work in neutral.

 

Transfer case goes into neutral, winch gets engaged.

Your transmission now controls the winch. The overdrive cannot be used while winching.

You can leave the transfer case in gear but I do not recommend it for the reasons PeteL stated.

PTO winches are incredibly strong, since they run off your engine. Just don't stall.

Ramsey 246 is very similar to the 200. Great winches.

Do you know if you have a dual output PTO? The dual outputs run one driveshaft to the front, and also have a mounting point for a rear shaft.

 

Looks like a rear output shaft to me. Now all I need is a post hole digger

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