What to look for

I am just finishing my first CJ5 build and want to get a Commando for my next which will eventually go to my son. I don't know anything other than I like the looks of them. I have found three priced between $1500 and $2500. The most expensive one has a lot of surface rust but nothing have rusted through. The drivetrain is there but not installed. The other two are less and are running but have some rot. What specifically should I shy away from or should expect a lot of work? I'm guessing a rusted tailgate is going to be a pretty extensive repair.

Andrew

 

Kinda depends on where you are really and what level of pain you are willing to accept.. If you are willing to travel, go west and get a good desert version...

 

As jeepenstien said, locatation will be a big concern. I bought my '69 for $1,280. 71,000 miles, A CO vehicle.
Actually, it's my daily driver now, and I alternate the drives with the '61 CJ3B.
Good luck for your search.

 

I'd take surface rust over rot any day, a rotten frame would be about the only thing that would make me pass on one. There's a lot of repro body panels available, specifically floor pans, inner/outer rockers, body supports, the typical stuff that rots, even tailgates. Not cheap but available if you have the cash to spend. Oh ya, be prepared to buy at least another on or three for spare parts :tea:.

 

Thanks. I guess the extra $800 for the one is better money spent than the labor and materials to bring the other up to the same point. Its been sitting in a barn for 10 years. The owner had the drive train rebuilt but never put it in. Just lost interest in it. Should know more next week. I sold a CJ7 to fund it and the guy is coming to pick it up this weekend. Hopefully the deal goes through.

 

Rebuilt drive train is a definite plus. Hopefully everything is still free and turning over from sitting.

 

One more question. I have narrowed down to two similar vehicles. One an automatic and one a manual. Regardless of what people prefer to drive, I am curious which is the better transmission choice based on future maintenance, repair, and durability. This will be a daily driver on the street. Let's assume that both transmissions have been recently rebuilt. I'm willing to give up my driving preference for reliability.

 

thistle,

I am actively looking for a Jeepster/Commando and here is what I look for and why (in addition to what's been mentioned above):

Year: '71-72 (last years before bullnose redesign)
- Saginaw steering (may be power, but not important to me). Saginaw seems to be less fussy than the Ross style of earlier years
- Dana 44 rear axle (flanged one piece axles)
- Dana 30 front axle (albeit closed knuckle)

If the PO is savvy enough, they may have made some the "upgrades" listed above to earlier models.

Regarding the transmissions, from what I read both trans type offerings were adequate for the JC. Most will also say the the auto (TH400) is WAAAAAYYYY overkill for the JC. It's only significant detractor is the lack of an overdirve gear. Take a look here for trans info: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmission_gateway.htm

Another question to ask yourself is what do you intended to do with you JC once you acquire it?

My desire is to "develop" mine into a daily driver/overlandy/expeditiony vehicle so my focus is finding a good starting platform.

Waggs

 

Thanks for the info. Strictly street use. Daily driver. Can you clarify and expand on the "bullnose" design.

 

Take a look at the pic in this link: http://www.boldride.com/ride/1973/jeep-commando-pickup#gallery/3

Note the grill isn't "Jeepy". These models may havea factory V8 (AMC 304) installed.

 

Got it. Thanks.

 

Waggs, 71 was the last year for the Jeepster. Saginaw steering came along in 70 although there were a few that still had Ross. Closed knuckle 30? All Jeepsters used a closed knuckle 27, 72/73 Commando were open knuckle 30.
As for the 400, yes, they are overkill but hey, you want reliability that's the way to go.

 

I'm not a fan of the AMC era Commandos. But, they were running the D44 flanged rear axle vs the, I belive D35.
Yes, I had to replace mine, the old one grenaded for no apparant reason.
The additon of the power brake booster helps.
I have a set of Terra Low gears out in the shop that I need to install sometime, It still won't do as well as my 3B offroad but the gears should help. 5.38 vs 3.73 axle ratios.

 

Jeepster started with the D30, a few got splined 44 around 69 then the flanged 44 beginning in 70 although some early 70 still had the 30.

 

Thanks pack rat, somehow I knew you would know about these things. I think my '69 is an early version, The D44 makes me feel a bit more confidiant on the roads and trails, at least I know it won't blow up for no reason.

 

For some reason I got the notion that during the :transition" years they used a closed knuckle 30 and then went to an open knuckle 30.

Thanks for the enlightenment!

Waggs

 

Thanks to all. I think I'm going with a '66. Everything original. Its been in a barn for 15+ years and the guy wants it to go to somebody that will restore it and enjoy it. He's turned down several offers because people said they were just going to flip it. Hoping this will be a project for my son and I to build over the next year or so.

 

Too many people watching Barrett Jackson, Fast and Loud and Counting Cars .

 

When Imake the deal. I don't want to jinx it. Hopefully, later this week.