Warn Locking Hub Installation

I've got a set of what I believe to be Warn locking Hubs (older with a plastic dial) They look like this I want to change them out for the Warn premium hubs of that era.

When I removed the old hub there is a large nut on the end of the axel shaft holding part of the locking hub mechanism on. It doesn't appear that nut will fit inside the Warn premium hub style (new or old type) Is there something I'm missing. Everywhere I have read talks about a snap ring, but I have a big ol' nut.

Any pictures, explanation or help would be great.

 

I'd be thinking we need a picture of what you're working on, something doesn't sound right.

 

what year is it? Only the early 2a's and military jeeps had a nut as far as i knew. My 2a has them and my superwinch hubs fit with just a bit of shaving but they say just to lop off the threads to fit the hubs.

 

Thought I might have a picture with a hub removed, did find this Locking Hub Removed. This is on a disc brake setup so disregard that part but the inside looks the same, yours should be similar.

 

Excepting also you should have 10 spline instead of 30 if you are running either a D-25 or D-27 front axle. Isn't this right?

 

The nut doesn't hold the locking hub on. It's held on by the six bolts. The locking hub only needs to slide over the end of the shaft.

 

My axles are D25s 10 spline, My jeep is a 63, but perhaps someone swapped the axles out for earlier threaded ones some time ago. I'll take a picture the next time I have a chance.

 

like this? see theres a nut under the hub. those are just drive flages instead of locking hubs
http://www.cj-3a.com/fig25.jpg

 

My 66 has 2) 2-1/8" nuts on the spindle to hold the drum assy (incl hubs) on. You need to get a special socket to remove them - available for about $10 several places including NAPA. There is also a snap ring at the end of the splined shaft. Sometimes this is missing. The outer hub housing (with the drive apparatus) is held on to the hub body with 6 bolts, as previously mentioned.

 

Here are some pictures of what I've got. It seems I may have some hubs designed for threaded (with a nut) axles. What is the best way to make this work with a set of vintage premium hubs?

 

Hmmm Your hub bodies look just like mine but that nut on the end of the shaft doesn't match what mine looks like. Sorry, I'll step back into the crowd now... and let an expert answer your question.

 

like i said you need to lop off the threads and have nothing there to run the other hubs. Some say you need it to keep your axle from floating in too far. But iv seen many jeeps with no c clip in place. And thats what the instructions to my superwinch hubs said to do. they also say the threaded axles are desireable on g503 by the military crowd so you might be better off selling them and upgrading to the other style.

 

This sounds like good advice to me. Post up on the G http://www.g503.com/forums/ and see if you can sell them or trade for a set without the nut on the end. Most of these axles have a snap ring that keeps the axle from floating in and out in the hub. Yours have a nut - an uncommon (and earlier?) variant. And I'd expect, not the right axles for this vehicle.

 

Plus they probrobly have that older style joint that is weaker and has less of a turning radious dont you think?

 

Don't know - could be.

I was looking at a MB restoration thread on the G that has some excellent pictures of the threaded axle end. Maybe they are weaker, and the restorers want them because they are period correct. The MB has a front D25 as I recall.

To the OP, what's your axle ratio? D25 and D27 axles for a CJ are not hard to find. They get discarded a lot in favor of the later open-knuckle D30.

I wonder where Ken is re this post. He's usually a font of this kind of info.

 

Does anyone know how easy it is to switch axle shafts? Do I need to change the spindle bushings? How do I go about changing the shafts?