Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by ITLKSEZ, Aug 20, 2015.
Recessed ubolt/spring plates?
Geez, that was quick!
I'm building a pair myself right now, different design but same general concept. Are you using square ubolts with spring under?
Square u-bolts with spring-over. These will go under the axle and capture the nuts so there is nothing below the tube for maximum clearance.
Sometimes, no most of the times, I wish you would leave more tools laying around in the background of the photos so I can see what you were using.
That's slick! My plates cradle the spring in the spring under position using the standard ubolts, so nothing will hang below the spring.
Theres a reason I zoom in on my stuff. The shop looks like a hurricane.
Torch, abrasive chop saw, cutoff wheel on one grinder, grinding wheel (or flap wheel) on another grinder, and a stationary bench grinder with a stone on one side and a stiff wire wheel in the other. That's about it. I have no vice; everything gets clamped to the bench to work on. No press or shear... Primitive. It's a woodshop after all.
I went back and ground out all the external joints to get complete penetration on the welds.
And here's the reason behind the 2-stage arc in the one plate. My driver's side spring will be right next to the housing, so I needed to go up and over it with the plate.
Pardon my crooked parts; I didn't spend nearly as much time on this as I could have, and my steel supplies are running dangerously low. Digging through my scrap buckets! I have a hard time making parts look perfect when they're just going to get hidden and covered in dirt and rock rash.
We are our own worst critics. I have to take my contacts out to make my stuff look as perfectly crooked as yours, and even then it's still not that perfectly crooked. For a wood guy you sure can weld good and stuff. Really like this design, great work as usual.
Your crooked stuff is straighter than my straight stuff. Beautiful as usual!
I can't spread butter as nicely as those welds.
I can't TIG weld as nice as those MIG welds. Dude. Every part you make that you complain about would be my masterpiece.
Thanks guys. It really isn't my intent to show off in any way; just showing techniques that some of you might find useful. Sharing tips and tricks I've picked up over the years in the industry.
Grooving or V-ing a joint like that, then welding with the perfect temp actually forms a measurable bead on the underside, ending with a weld on the face that can be ground flat if needed for clearance or aesthetic reasons without compromising its strength. It takes practice though; get it a little too hot or go a little too slow, and the whole puddle ends up on the floor and you're left with a big hole in your work.
Shut up. Its hot sheet and i like to see what i should try and aspire to. Every one else should too.
I admire and appreciate your skills Ryan, you are an inspiration. I don't take your posts as "showing off" in any way, but as you stated; sharing tips and techniques. I'll take a good idea any chance I get, you have some good ones.
Dang nice fab work. This project is looking good.
I'm glad to be done with this spring hardware. It got more complicated than I'd planned. The holes next to the strap ended up so close to the strap there would be no room for a nut, so I had to weld in a sleeve and cap it off, in order to get the nut further away from the arc. The sleeve is visible on the left, and the template for the cap is on the right.
Here it is finished after some clearancing with a die grinder.
Top plates and spring perches are also finished.
After it's all said and done, I'm not sure all the work was worth the extra inch or two of ground clearance, but I really hate getting snagged on u-bolts. Why go spring-over without making use of every inch possible, right?
If you're wondering why not just use standard u-bolts with nuts above the axle, I just don't like them. The bumpstops I plan on using would get annihilated by the bolt-ends and nuts. I have that setup on my 3B and I've never been pleased with it.
This axle is ready to get stashed back in its hole until I can justify sending off the shaft to be shortened and having some custom U-bolts made. The threads need to come up higher on the bolts than any that I'm finding online. There's a spring company in Spokane; I'll swing in next time I'm over that way.
So the final measurements are in. This pinion is 2 7/8"off center, and my t-case output is 2 3/4" off center. The shaft will be 1/8" from being directly in line. That's better than I'd hoped for.
Here's a mock-up shot to show final perspective.
Gotta love zip ties!
Just an FYI: If all else fails, there's a shop in Yakima (White Front Shop 509-457-5595) that I have used many times. I'm sure Jim would make and send the desired parts.
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