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v6 engine placement

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by den, Jun 18, 2004.

  1. Jun 18, 2004
    den

    den New Member

    maine
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2004
    Messages:
    3
    I have a 55 m38a1 and am putting in a buick v6 I have the motor tranny & transfer all attached and am getting ready to weld in my motor mounts but woud like some reference dimensions before i do.I am using the donor commando motor mounts.how close is the fan blades to radiator and motor mount to front frame crossmember?
    Thanks
    Dennis
     
  2. Jun 18, 2004
    53 m38a1 w/225

    53 m38a1 w/225 New Member

    Bell California
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2002
    Messages:
    5
    I have the same thing in my M38a1. Just mount the motor as close to the firewall as possible.
     
  3. Jun 18, 2004
    vanguard

    vanguard

  4. Jun 19, 2004
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Hello Dennis, welcome from Ohio.

    Here's a pic from my '71 CJ-5 w/ 225 V6 (passenger front side):

    [​IMG]

    HTH!! Just curious, where are you from and how did you hear about ECJ-5.com? :)
    -Alan
     
  5. Jun 19, 2004
    den

    den New Member

    maine
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2004
    Messages:
    3
  6. Jun 20, 2004
    Jeepnut67

    Jeepnut67 New Member

    Mammoth, AZ
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2003
    Messages:
    49
    Hippo, I am intimately familiar with the V-6 Jeeps and I have Absotively NO ideer what the frick that picture is!. What is it???? hmm think I finally figured it out... its a shot taken following the lines of gravity taken about 2 feet from the front and a foot from the right side of said CJ, huh? What are all the hoses for??? R) :stout: guess I need more :coffee: the :beer: is kicking in too much.
     
  7. Jun 20, 2004
    Jeepnut67

    Jeepnut67 New Member

    Mammoth, AZ
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2003
    Messages:
    49
    [​IMG]

    This make it easier???
     
  8. Jun 20, 2004
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,513
    The commando uses the CJ frame mount on one side and a real short mount on the other (I forget which side is which)
    If you could find the longer CJ frame mount to replace the short mount, I believe the job would be easier, as you won't have to fab a frame mount for the small mount.
    The CJ v6 fame mounts are basic weld in once you have the proper position decided upon. I would measure mine for you, but I am a 2A and would probably not help.
     
  9. Jun 21, 2004
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Jeepnut, very good 'cept the pic's backwards. Hoses? I don't see no steenking hoses. R) The red & black cables are for my Ramsey Winch; there's a wiring loom in there; an oil pressure line; and a +Batt-to-starter cable. The oil filter has a grippey-thing on it to make installation easier (aka "condom" :D )
     
  10. Jun 21, 2004
    steverdenver

    steverdenver Member

    Denver,(Littleton...
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2002
    Messages:
    61
    Just for the record, you can put you engine in how you want.

    It is all a compromise anyway.

    I put mine in my CJ6 (4 cylinder original) about 1-1/2 inch to the driver's side off center and forward about 3/4 inch more than a Jeep that came stock with a Buick V6.
     
  11. Jun 21, 2004
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Did it compromise steering to the left? Does the draglink hit the bell or inspection plate with it that much forward? Thanks. :beer:
     
  12. Jun 22, 2004
    steverdenver

    steverdenver Member

    Denver,(Littleton...
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2002
    Messages:
    61
    V6 Placement

    Hippo393

    I do not know about clearance with Stock Steering. I guess you could not move he engine over more than about 3/4 inch with stock steering.
    The Buick V6 swaps with stock steering I have seen had the box and arm almost rubbing against the V6 engine block.

    Also if you keep the stock brake pedal and MC, you will have to heat and bend the pedal arm for bellhousing clearance.

    I am at the same time as swapping to a Buick V6, doing Siginaw Power steering. (and Swing Pedals).

    Personally I would never run an early Jeep without a Siginaw Steering system. I have done Siginaw even on early Jeeps with 4 Cyl engines (134s). It is such a great improvement that I am highly motivated to just do it. When I was a kid we used Chevy manual steering off of 1958 Sedans-- due to their low gears.

    Even with Siginaw Steering, the clearance is close to the exhaust manifold-- that is to the steering U-joint at the base of the steering column.

    Actually I have modified Exhaust manifolds by nickel welding new outlets on them to make extra clearance for my Siginaw steering many times. Welding on an exhaust manifold is a risk-- could warp or crack latter--- but if it wreaks it I just had another one on hand and did it all over again. But really, it has always worked out and never broke or warped enough to not work.


    Also I recommend using a Hydraulic clutch system.

    I am mounting my slave to the t-90 case. It is a push slave that pushes an arm I built-- that will pull on the clutch arm. This way when the frame flexes--it will not affect the clutch like machanical clurch linkage does. My MC and Slave is salvaged off of a Nissan 720 PU (that I once owned and scrapped).

    The thing is, I am doing a frame-up rebuild, which is different than just an engine swap. When you have the entire Jeep disassembled the approach to doing Engine, Steering, Brakes, Suspension is different than if you are doing it with the Jeep together.

    One way to position you engine correctly with stock steering and brake pedals is to construct the motor mounts so that you can move the engine around a few inches in the engine bay-- and then tack it into place when it is postioned correctly.

    You could position the engine on blocks, then when it is just right adjust the mounts.

    Or

    Build mounts off of the three holes in the cylinder heads that arch down like legs to the frame rails and tack wide plate on the frame that the legs support the engine upon. THese serve as temp mounts to position the engine. Then when the mounts from the heads hold the engine-- build the perm mounts to the mounts on the block. ( This is what you can do to support the engine if you need to modify a stock mount also if later you go back and have to hack a mount to make Siginaw Steering intermediate shaft clearance-- to support the engine while modifying.)

    Or

    Construct mounts that are adjustable with extra iron over lapping so you can slide the engine around a few inches.-- and after adjusted in the right place, weld them permanently and trim off the excess iron.
     
  13. Jun 25, 2004
    den

    den New Member

    maine
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2004
    Messages:
    3
    Thanks for all replys
    Dennis
     
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