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Upgraded Tie Rod, Ends And Drag Link For 1974 D30

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, May 22, 2020.

  1. May 22, 2020
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    I am planning to do a tie rod flip on my 1974 D30. I'm going to buy some DOM in either 1 1/8 OD or 1.5 and .5 ID

    i am using this chart 4x4 Technical Support to narrow my search.

    I am probably going to buy weld in bungs for the tie rod and drag link as I only have 7/8-14 and not the 7/8-18 taps required.

    Here is a thread about this and mentions that welding on a steering knuckle is not recommended. 4x4 Technical Support
    I have reservations about welding a steel insert on a cast steel knuckle and the longevity of the weld. I would TIG weld it as recommended, but what's the consensus about this.

    I don't see a whole lot of information about the drag link aspect of this. I am using a power saginaw box now.. My drag link is one that came in a pile of parts and the adjuster is really flimsy. I want to just make a longer drag ling and eliminate this.

    Any of you have clearance issue with the cover and 1.5 OD DOM?
     
  2. May 22, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I've done 4 tie rod flip installs. The tie rod flip bung cannot come out of the knuckle due to the nut on the TRE and the weld is only there to prevent the flip bung from spinning and wollering out the knuckle hole.
    I have used both the Goferit and TMR customs flip bungs.
    Goferit bungs are poor design and limit the articulation of the tie rod. You are required to weld on top of the knuckle arm.
    The TMR bungs are the only kind I will use from now on. The welding goes on the bottom of the knuckle arm and does not interfere with any articulation of the tie rod end.
    As far as welding goes..... pre heat the knuckle and weld it.

    Post #300 Norcal69's Common Sense Build.

    Under side of the knuckle arm... Where the nut goes.

    [​IMG]

    Tie rod end side... aka top of knuckle

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
    47v6 likes this.
  3. May 22, 2020
    Jay's WWII Jeeps

    Jay's WWII Jeeps Member

    Napa CA
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    Why not use 1 ton tie rod ends? Are you going to use .5" ID DOM?
    I'm doing this with my Roxor front end now. I used .120 wall DOM.
    Jay
     
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  4. May 22, 2020
    47v6

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    The "one ton" Rod ends are not really one ton necessarily. They were also used on 1/2 and 3/4 ton applications as I have read. All of the upgrade ones I am looking at have either 7/8-18 or 1"-18 threads.
    First off, thanks for the answer and useful information.
    I actually thought about making my own inserts as I have a lathe and reamers.. The biggest question for me is the taper. What taper are the different TRE's available because I "may" have the right reamer or what TRE's are compatible with the inserts.

    Edit, seems TMR makes it clear what they work with Tie Rod End Inserts - Chevy 1 Ton Taper
     
  5. May 22, 2020
    47v6

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    One more question.. Can I do this to my pitman arm?
     
  6. May 22, 2020
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member 2019 Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    In my experience no need to flip the TRE on the pitman arm. If you want to avoid the weld in bungs and want to use 1" x .188 wall tube, I have a set of 11/16 x 18 taps you can borrow, this allows you to use the stock TREs. Well, one of them belongs to Muzikp, but we've loaned them out before and I happen to have them both at the moment.
     
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  7. May 22, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    No need to do it to the pitman arm. One of the great things about the tie rod flip is that it helps big time with the bump steer on lifted jeeps.
     
  8. May 22, 2020
    47v6

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    awesome. I need to figure out what direction i wanna go.
    I have NO bump steer even with my 4 " lift. Why? I dunno, got lucky I guess. So, you guys don't upgrade the pitman arm rod end? Just the TRE's on the knuckles? My drag link is really flex with the split adjuster and that's the real impetus in this swap. I will break it for sure. Its stock for 1974 and very weak. I can flex it by pulling on it.
     
  9. May 22, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    I got a pitman arm with no end in it. Drilled a hole and reamed it out for the TRE. There is a vender that is always referred on finding pitman arm. Can not think of who it is.
     
  10. May 22, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    If you want to you can definitely ream out the pitman arm to the next size larger taper. Provided there is enough meat there.....
    You typically don't need to flip the tie rod end at the pitman arm.
     
  11. May 22, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

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    One thing about a tierod flip it helps on the drag link angle.
     
  12. May 22, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Note: The idea behind the 1-ton Tie-rod ends is they're large enough you can just ream out a larger tapered hole from the top and not need an insert at all. The small end of the 1-ton taper is about the same size as the large end of the normal taper.
     
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  13. May 22, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Thats what I did. Flipped the DLink left the TRod on the bottom.
     
  14. May 22, 2020
    47v6

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    I don't think I need to flip my pitman TRE. I think I will buy the threaded bungs for the DOM, 2 LH TRE's and 2 RH TRE's with the corresponding required inserts. Should be pretty straightforward... Unless welding on the bungs is a bad idea...
     
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  15. May 22, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    The threaded bungs look like a pretty good way to go if you don't have the taps. No problem welding on them.
     
  16. May 22, 2020
    47v6

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    I'm confident in my welding ability.... I also just got a gas lens for my TIG torch. see how it goes for me.
     
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  17. May 22, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    :watch:
     
  18. May 22, 2020
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member 2019 Sponsor

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    I went with the taps because I am not confident enough to weld on steering components.
     
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  19. May 22, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Went using taps you need to have a lathe to line up tubing and tap. Doing it free handed you may get them started but if the tap is not lined up perfect the tap will start to go to one side and you will not able to go deep enough for the TRE to thread in.
     
  20. May 22, 2020
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

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    Can be done in a drill press with a table that will tilt 90*
    Never owned or used a lathe , sure would be nice to have.
     

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