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Tub Dimension And Body Mount Thickness Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by teletech, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. Dec 23, 2018
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Santa Cruz, CA
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    I'm trying to put Humpty-dumpty back together again and it would help to have the measurement from the back-top of the tub where the tailgate hits strait forward to the top of the cowl/dash. That or whatever similar measurement people use to know if the cowl is canted properly with respect to the base line of the tub.

    Mine is a '66 and I'm wondering if the 1/4" body to frame mounts are correct for my application, it looks more like I'd need 1/2" pads? I got it with a mix of old 1/2" pads and chunks of tire sidewall.

    Thanks folks.
     
  2. Dec 23, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I believe the originals are 3/8" thick rectangular reinforced rubber pieces. The round urethane replacements are 1/2" thick. Either way, they are all the same thickness.
     
    Rick Whitson likes this.
  3. Dec 24, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    When I replaced the cowl on my Jeep, too many holes in firewall from PO, I bolted 1"X1" box tubing to the cowl where the dash bolts on. I then welded 1"X1" box tubing from the dash along the top of the box, so when I cut the tub at the bottom of the door opening, I unbolted the box from the cowl, and then bolted the new cowl to tubes where the dash bolts were, giving me the exact length I started wit[​IMG]
    h. I hope this makes sense to you, it worked out for me. My 71 box has a 66 cowl on it,
     
  4. Dec 24, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  5. Dec 24, 2018
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Santa Cruz, CA
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    kaiserwillys.com only sells 1/4" ones in the factory pattern and 1/2" round mounts. If the "66 used something 3/8" I'll have to make them myself?

    I like the box tubing idea but getting back to where I started isn't really a good option:
    wreck.JPG
     
  6. Dec 24, 2018
    melvinm

    melvinm Member

    Arvada Co. 80003
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    I have been there and done that.
     
  7. Dec 24, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    The tire sidewall is probably original. That's what Jeep used for these insulators prior to the AMC take-over. They date back to the '40s. Walck's sells a modern replacement Body Mount Rubber Pad Military and CJ Models
     
  8. Dec 24, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I measured both sides of 3 different CJ5 tubs, a 68, 69 and 71. Putting the end of the tape measure at the top of the cowl/dash, below the windshield frame and between the dash bolt and windshield latch straight back to the top rear of tub where the tailgate hits and they are all 5' 9 and 3/4". The tape was straight but at a downward angle as the rear of the tub is lower than the cowl. Hope this helps.

    That photo is heartbreaking btw. Vivid reminder to double check your hood latches if I remember correctly.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2018
  9. Dec 25, 2018
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Interesting example if JEEP lean.
     
  10. Dec 25, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Wow,that was a clean Jeep, what a shame no rust, I hope everything works out for you. I would take the front end off and try and pull it back out, it is so clean it might pull out better than you think. I can feel your pain, I would like to help with that job, but I am too far away. Good Luck.
     
  11. Jan 13, 2019
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Santa Cruz, CA
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    5'-9.75" is the number I needed, thanks a lot for that! I'm 1/4" off now so time to go push on stuff a little bit.

    Yes, hood latches... plus Jeep lean, lift kit, bias ply tires, front mount winch, and that day I had removed the back seat, tools, and spare tire/gascan rack too... plus going downhill. Pretty much all the worst case situation but it still makes me sick to think of the damage.

     
  12. Sep 4, 2019
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Santa Cruz, CA
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    OK, so I've found the parts to complete a front clip and I've got the tub straightened out and back on the frame... sort-of.
    The issue I find is it looks fine until I set the hood on, I have to push the front clip over about an inch to have the fenders line up with the hood and tub.
    I've had the tub off (twice) to drop a plumb-bob to the floor and I can't find any issues bigger than a strong 1/16" in terms of squareness. I set the body tub on cardboard and traced it out as well, worst case is 1/4"
    There isn't any serious twist in the frame that I can find and the body seems OK as well. If I set the body centered on it's mounting holes the distance from the body to the frame is equal on both sides.
    I'm well and truly out of ideas about what the problem is. I'm pretty tempted to just oblong a few holes 1/2" and bolt it down, but I fear that will bite me when it comes time to install the steering column.
     
  13. Sep 4, 2019
    teletech

    teletech Member

    Santa Cruz, CA
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    Speaking of body mounts, what's the deal with the two places at the far front of where the tub sits on the frame? There are remnants of staples or wire that I assume was used to secure a pad of some sort.
    How thick was that material and can anyone confirm that it was in fact attached between the body and frame?
     
  14. Sep 4, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I believe there was a 1/4" or so strip of reinforced rubber under there, like tire sidewall or conveyor belt type material. There may have also been wood inside that U-shaped piece to keep it from crushing.
     
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