Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jollyjeepers, Nov 6, 2009.
Many things need to be re-worked when installing a 400 turbo into a short wheelbase Jeep. The swap has to start with cutting the shroud on the grill to get the radiator flat against the front of the grill and getting every inch possible. On a early 5 you can gain almost 6 inches just with the grill. Then the fan needs an inch of clearance as the fan moves forward as it spins. A oe four bladed stiff fan that doesn't flex can help. I just installed the drivelines on the 49 3a last night that I am building with a 231/400 turbo/20 tc and it ended up with a 13 1/2" running length driveline in the rear. Easy to move the rearend 1" back to gain another inch on the driveline. My 3b has a 15" rear driveline with the same set-up on a m38a1 frame. I have done at least a dozen of these Jeeps with this combo and it does work. Or you can gain 3 more inches with a turbo 350 if the cost to build the tranny and the adapter isn't a factor.
Thanks, guys. This was a '69 CJ5 with a V6 that a new member, Nooner, here bought here in VA back in 2005 and then immediately got transferred and we bought it from him and stashed it in a garage.
He was told that it had a rod knock. It's a super stock original and rust free jeep (didn't know there were such things). Pete and I never tried to start it. We just made sure it had indoor storage to protect it and figured that some day we might open the bottom of it and take a look.
Well...I put it up for sale when Pete died for $1800. Had someone here offer me $1000 for it. The next morning I had a guy with cash in hand happy to pay that especially when he saw it. My dad showed up to help my son and I clean out garages at the time and stated that he wanted it and was rather upset that I didn't show it to him first.
He ended up buying it and just took it home to PA a little over a week ago and he had to throw a battery in it and start it. Turns out it has NO engine knock at all and just has some transmission noise in first gear and reverse I think he said. He drove it all around and checked it out good and it's a low mileage great running jeep.
Of course had I known that or had the time or lack of fear in damaging it I could have possibly asked a lot more for it.
So, since I have no other V6's or V6 knowledge, (I'm happy with :hurrican he was asking if I could find for him.
It's really bizarre for him to be into CJ's as he's had no interest in this part of our hobby and only considered a jeep if it had flat fenders.
It must be his lucky week because the same week he got home with it he went to an auction and got a one-owner '48 CJ2 with a 3-point hitch, PTO, arms, and all the good stuff.
I've printed out the Novak stuff and your info here to mail him. Thanks for the info as always.
So sorry to hear about Pete - he was a good man and even though I never got to spend enough time with him (or you for that matter) thinking of him can always bring a smile to my face. I'll try to call soon.
I'm glad the '69 found a good home! Ironic that it didn't have the problems we thought it did, but it was a nice little toot.
When you do these swaps and cut the grill tin do you also remove the front crossmember. And if so how do you brace up the grill? And by moving the motor forward does it affect how the jeep steers or drives with the extra weight of the motor moved forward?
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My 70 came witha T14, which my dad promptly swiped for his 69 (thanks, dad..). I found a cheap deal on a T90/Dana18/Warn OD combo, with the GM bolt pattern adapter on the front (it has to be the long input shaft version of the T90) I also got the driveshafts from the same Jeep. When used as a combo, all this was a bolt in swap with no other mods.
So, what input shaft and length, 2wd or 4wd T18 would one look for to swap a T18 in place of a factory T14? and, are there any factory adaptors for the t-case or is it just bolt in?
Its easy to make a much smaller crossmember to hold the grill once you put Saginaw steering on it. The weight transfer forward is minimal, as the longer transmission probably offsets it anyways.
This is an expansive topic, and has been covered a lot in previous posts.
You can do a junkyard swap by putting together pieces from a Ford and Jeep or IHC T-18, with some minor machining. You can also convert a Ford T-18 to work with a Jeep transfer case using a commercial adapter. In both cases you'll have to sort out the side effects, such as linkages, mounts, driveshafts and floors.
There were a few 1971 close-ratio T-18 Jeeps made that would provide a true 'bolt in' swap, but they are really, really rare, and worth preserving for their own sake. See the posts by me and Patrick in the thread above.
All early Jeep transfer cases have what is commomly called the "Texas" bolt pattern.
The basic transmiission models that bolt directly with the Texas pattern are the Borg Warner T90, T86, T14 and T15.
All "Jeep" T98 transmissions are adapted only to the small hole (3-1/8") model 18 transfer case via adapter plate.
All "Jeep" T18 transmissions are adapted to either a large hole (4") model 18 or a model 20 transfer case via an adapter plate.
Two basic versions of these cast iron adapter plates were made by "Jeep".
These both are 15/16" thick but fit only the 3-1/8" bore or 4" bore.
The T98 adapter plate is side tapped for a clutch control pivot ball stud.
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