Track Bar

Hello Everyone,

I recently purchased a 1977 cj5. I have a sway or wondering issue. New hd drag link, hd tie rod, new power steering box. New shocks. 32" tires @ 40 psi. 2" body lift. I took it to an alignment shop and he says it needs a track bar to secure the front axle to the frame before he will do an alignment. Your thoughts

 

Try a different shop?

There was a stabilizer bar available in '77, but I suspect it was optional. If the shop tells you to get a track bar and really means track bar, they don't know their business. A track bar is only needed on a vehicle with front coil spring suspension. It keeps the axle from moving left and right as it moves up and down. The stabilizer bar could also be called a sway bar, since it helps prevent body roll on this Jeep. It won't affect the alignment setting.

How much lift do you have?

The shop can only set the toe-in and center the steering without taking the suspension apart and adding shims. You may need caster shims to make your Jeep track right, especially if you have lift springs. Around 5-7 degrees positive caster works well. If you get an alignment, insist on a printout from the machine. Post it up here.

First post! Welcome from Boston.

 

Sounds like the alignment guy doesnt know what he is talking about to be honest.

 

Since my post, I went to my local Performance shop A&A Auto, formally owned by
Top Fuel Drag Car Champion Joe Amatto, they have no listing for a track bar. Wrangler Yes. I went back to the alignment shop
and told him do his best. He really does know his stuff. Maybe just some dust on the brain today.
I owned a cj5 for 15 years in the 70's and never had wondering like this.
He says the shackles are not stock size and may play a part in this.
The bushings I installed were Energy Suspension . They do not come with
metal sleeves. The oem ones do. I know I have a lot of work to do for a comfortable ride. I have time.

 

The urethane bushings should have an inner steel sleeve and no outer sleeve. The original rubber silent block bushings have an inner and outer steel sleeve.

Long shackles will change your caster angle. How long are the shackles you have now?

 

40 PSI is really high. Try 22-26.

 

This photo was taken with out something to scale it to. This is the front.
Also steve 1973 says lower psi. I thought raising psi would take away side wall deflection.
The bushing kit came without sleeves. I called and they said not needed. I really think down the road , I will put the OEM style on.

 

The lower pressure will let the tire use all of the tread instead of just a thin strip on the middle therefore improving the ride. Run them through a puddle and then on dry pavement to see the contact patch , deflate till you get the whole tread. Mine work out to 20 ish in the front and 18 ish in the rear.

 

Jeeps don't weigh that much.

 

Here is a visual of what Jeff is describing, although your pressure will not be this low for street driving.

 

My skinny tires will stay on the rim to about three psi.

 

Ok. I see what you are saying about the psi in the tires.
I will drop pressure to 30 psi and see what it feels like.
If not good I will go lower until it makes a difference.
as for the alignment, I have attached the print out for you to see
what my settings. he said its about an 1/8" toe in. It feels like I am not touching the road.

 

Looks like you could use some shims. Caster should be around five degrees I would put some four degree shims in it.

 

Having just done caster shims on the front of my Jeep (Old Red Maintenace Thread), it makes a world of difference. The Jeep went from being a white knuckle drive over 40mph to almost being relaxing.

 

After hearing everyone's advise, and giving a lot of thought, general consensus is to add 5 degrees the the front axle.
But I want to try something else before I do the shims. The alignment guy said to install
a track bar. It makes sense. So I am going to install a 1/4" thick angle where the bump stop would go with a tab welded, with a 5/8 hole.
Clamp on a axle perch next to the pumpkin and weld a tab to that. I will connect both with a radius rod. Trying to keep the rod as close to being horizontal as possible. I do not go off road so travel is not an issue. I think this will lock the front rear and frame together and stop most of the wondering. This is not costing me any money to do. I have everything I need . The shim route will cost me money. Lets just say I'm taking the easy way first. Does anyone see a problem with the radius rod? I am doing this on friday so to give time for feedback.
Thanks

 

IMO, it’s like putting a steering stabilizer on a Jeep to cure death wobble; it’s just a bandaid that will hide the real issues.

The track bar will lock the axle in place as planned, but without the proper caster, you’ll always have a wandering problem.

If you have more time and fab skills than money, you can cut the spring perches off the axle and rotate them 5° negating the need for shims. Just make sure you take good measurements.

 

A radius rod runs parallel to the frame rail, usually one on each side. A track bar, aka panhard bar, runs parallel to the axle. Neither of these items is necessary with a leaf spring suspension. You mentioned longer spring shackles. These are often a source of problems like you describe. I suggest you consider stock length shackles, and make sure the bushings don't have excessive play. Shorter, stock length shackles will possibly negate the need for caster shims too.
Panhard bars are used with coil spring suspensions to locate the axle side-to-side. These shouldn't be needed with leaf springs.
-Donny

 

Yep, pointless IMO. Not even benign. I predict it will cause more problems than it solves.

Start with factory-length shackles and new shackle bushings. Lots of old posts here about shackle bushing replacement.

Sorry for piling on, but I'm just repeating what I told you days ago.

 

I can't read this - it's too small. 640x480 or 800x600 are good sizes for posting pics.

 

Hello to everyone

Well today I installed the Panhard bar. I took it out for a test drive and what a difference. This was a
noticeable improvement. It still had a little wonder but I could drive it. I could relax driving , but being cautious.
I live in Northeast PA, and for paying the HIGHEST fuel tax in the nation, these roads suck. Its hard to keep any vehicle on the road.
With that said, there is still work to be done. Maybe put one in the rear.
I will do the shims in the front axle like you said. Trust me , I really do trust and like your input. I have a hard head and sometimes I run with something just to do it. But I am happy I improved my ride.
Do I also shim the rear axle also? Or are they just tagging along?
I attached a picture of the panhard bar .