Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by lynndiwagon, Jul 12, 2008.
hhmmmm, I need to re-read my EZwire labels.... but I think this'll be easy.
i dunno if this will help or not but here goes.
Bill, is yours still set up for 12 volts or 6 volts?
Mine will be 12 due to the alternator conversion, if yours is 12 now, I'll just tape that wire and secure it ssafely.
Thanks. If I'm ever out your way, I owe ya a beer.
Will this also work on a Lhead 134 12V system
Man, talk about timing, took Brutar out for the second time after its 25 year barn rest and it ran great but the starter puked. Love this site!!!! Thanks guys
that was mr bill....
I apologize for resurrecting an ancient thread, but I just tried this and it didn't work....
The Toyota bendix apparently doesn't pop out enough to engage the Jeep flywheel. The starter just spins, and I think I can hear the bendix clicking out, but it doesn't turn the engine over. I also had to ream the top hole in the starter a fair amount to get the top bolt to go in and the starter to center in the bell housing hole properly. This is a "Quality-Built" brand rebuilt 16224.
I have a 1966 (mfd in 1965) CJ5 with the F-134.
I did, however, bypass the solenoid built into the starter, by putting the starter wire under the same lug as the wire that goes down into the actual starter motor, so that I wouldn't have to change all my solenoid wiring around and solder on new connectors. But surely the solenoid on these things doesn't need to be powered to fire the bendix. The bendix is 100% centrifugal-force activated, right?
I am a bit loathe to try to return the new starter now, since I reamed that one hole. Seems dishonest....
The solenoid is used to mechanically activate the drive gear, same as the v6 starter does.
Ahhh! Very very interesting. Thank you, sir. I will rewire it tomorrow evening and report back.
I really appreciate the advice!
I just installed this starter from autozone all I had to do was enlarge the holes in the starter. Works fine.
Keep in mind this only works on the 129 tooth ring gear and the later bell housing. It will not work with a bell housing that has the starter bushing in it or with a 97 or 124 tooth ring gear
Just finished reinstalling it. I made a little jumper so that the big input terminal of the Toyota solenoid powers the S terminal, so I am still using the old solenoid on the fender for the key switch and 12v ignition coil bypass and so forth.
I'm gonna cut a video of what I did and post it here in a bit, in case it will help the next guy avoid doing the same things wrong that I did.
Alrighty, here's the crappy video. Sorry for rambling so much...
I installed this one today. $68 at autozone and that was including the core charge. Think i told them a 69 landcruiser.
The holes have to be oblonged just a bit to the outside edge so the bolts line up with the bolt holes on the bellhouse. The starter is aluminum so just reamed it out with a 3/8 drill bit.
Thought the hole needed to be enlarged to fit the bolt at first, but it needs to be oblonged to the outter edge so it will line up with the bellhouse holes. I reamed both holes so i could use the original bolts. If you used a smaller diameter bolt for the bottom you wouldnt need to ream that one out
Original top bolt. That stud is close. Helped to remove coil and bracket, and air cleaner from firewall and even then it was fun to tighten down
And installed. Switched power from key went to the spade terminal away from the engine. Has a green pigtail for something but apparently don't need it for this application. Maybe full 12v to coil when its cranking?
dont apologize, this is on my list of possibles with the jeep, and its nice to rehash/relook at all this no matter how trivial.
sorry if this is old news to most but ive searched/looked into it recently and love any new or not info to be gained.
Might be an old thread, but for those of us who had no idea you could fit a Toyota starter to an F-head, it's gold.
Yup. Has some good info so hope the pics help
Added to the Technical Index.
OK, so after two weeks from hell, trying to get my injured F head back to life, from a bad number two connecting rod and has now turned out to be a experience I did not plan for. I get this now pretty much totally rebuilt F 134 in the 53 3b and the starter bendix poops itself. Can't find a local rebuilder, dodn't want to spend $260 to 350 for a rebuilt and POW, I find this thread. Going to pick up a Toyota tomorrow and see if this works. Thanks for doing this and having the knowledge guys. Will let you know. By the way, I have three F134 starters and they are all not operable for one reason or another, but non have a good bendix. Will order a kit later, but have to hear this thing run. Thanks again.
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