Torque, clutch, hardware, paint...

Howdy all!
1) Got my engine back from the machine shop Wednesday, all redone, painted ford red (I know black is what it should be, but it looks SHARP!) Now onto re assembly of it all. Only my block is painted, I need to paint the head, oil pan, valve cover, manifold, cross over tube, oil mounts, water inlet? Water pump, so on so on...
I have POR 15 manifold grey for the manifolds, but what should be used for the rest? I think black would be very sharp looking, do they make specific paint for that all?
2) The machine shop forgot to install my clutch, no biggie, I can do that. I attempted it last night all brand new parts. On the disk itself, the drive nut? (splined thingy in middle) has more exposed on one side than the other. I assume the longer side points toward the tranny? Then, on the pressure plate, with the disk in the middle, the flanges don't mount flush on the flywheel. Do I need to adjust this? It's only wrist tight for now, so should I just keep cranking on it? Sorry I have no idea how a clutch works... For those, what's my torque on those bolts? Thread lock?
3) Head bolts, they removed my studs and said replace them with grade 8 aircraft bolts of the proper size... Now... What size is it? And torque those with thread lock?
4) Manifold bolts. Amount of torque with thread lock too?
5) Carb nuts, torque those?
6) Bell housing torque?
7) Tranny to bell housing torque?
8) Transfer case to bell housing torque?
9) Lastly, mounts, what torque on those?
My FSM doesn't seem to be able to show me any of the torque readings except on the fine stuff.
Thanks!

 

Clutch should say flywheel side on one side of it. Did you put a new pilot bushing in? Locktite the pressure plate bolts. As you tighten the plate down they will pull flush. Do you have an ailignment tool for the clutch? Cant help with any of the torque settings, but on the head bolts use some oil on the threads to get an accurate torque measurement.

 

AFAIK they did a new pilot bushing. No alignment tool, but I have it fairly centered. Cool, I'll look for the word then on it
So for the pressure plate, the fingers will losen up and draw flush? It just feels like a lot of pressure and maybe crushing to the disc...
Oh, and Jason, I didn't forget about you, just had finals and studying for a while, I'll get the list to you at some point

 

No marking on the clutch disc =/

 

DAYHYK Steve?
How about paint for those parts? Will POR 15 burn off?
Got the manifold's painted and it looks brand new

 

And I like the contrast I got the manifold's painted with manifold grey paint. It's the high temp stuff, and seems to be almost just metal, and thinner :?
I guess I'll hunt down black enamel then. How much am I paying for it you think?

 

So more than one coat? Cool.
Oh man I thought it was gonna be like the 40 bucks of POR... Haha.
6 is easy. Think ACE would have it or would I go to the auto paint store?

 

Auto parts for paint.
Heads 60-70 torque to 4o then the rest of the way. see pic for sequince
flywheel 35-41
intake 29-35
exhaust 29-35
carb 7
trans to bell 30
trans to tcase 35
Can't find bell to engine prob bout the same as trans to bell. If these are wrong somebody help. Hope it helps and is right. Out of a chilton, don't have a fsm for that year. doesn't say anything about thread lock, most have lock/washers iirc.

 

Say, thanks Bob! Sounds good enough for me. My engine is the L- Head so mine will be a little different pattern, but I have a sercive book with it, and then my FSM. Thanks!

 

Did you say the replaced the studs with bolts for you head? I would go back and buy some studs for it instead. That is just what I prefer. Also you manifold should have studs and not bolts. Put permantex (sp?) on the end of all the studs that go into the block or they will leak coolant.

 

before you mount the manifolds make sure they a flush with each other or they will crack, leave it loose where they bolt together until you get them snugged to the block

 

Here's a little tidbit from the 2A page on torque specs. You might want to copy it just to have it.

http://www.cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html

I would definately have an alinement tool for the clutch. If not chances it will not go back together easily.

 

Thanks Gary, I'll save that, that's gonna come in handy!
How easy is it to use one of these clutch alignment tools?
And for the pressure plate it will suck down correct?

Bill, why so adverse towards non stud bolts?

Lastly, got engine paint today, regular NAPA had it Painted stuff, looks nice now.

 

Clutch alignment tool - it is merely just a piece of plastic, sometimes with splines on it, that fits into the disc. as you are tightening the pressure plate down, you hold it agaist the flywheel to center the disc between the FW and the PP.

The pressure plate is supposed to have PRESSURE against the bolts. So, it will draw down to the FW surface as you tighten the bolts causing the disc to get squashed between the FW and the PP. If the disc is not perfectly centered, when you install the trans shaft into the disc, the mounting holes will not line up. Thus the need for an alignment tool. They are pretty cheap, usually less than ~ $5.
The way a clutch works:
With the clutch depressed and the engine spinning, the FW and PP are spinning but the disc is not because the throwout bearing is opening up and taking the pressure off the clutch disc. As you let the clutch out, the TO bearing allows the PP to engage on the disc causing the transmission to turn.

 

Oh man, that may be worth it then, I was thinking this big metal thing with a read out dial and all this
So you say the disc will not get damaged with me tightnening the pressure plate down, and even though there's about 3/16 between the FW and PP, it will disappear and still work?

 

yup

 

I use a junk tranny input shaft for an alignment tool. When you tighten down the pressure plate just do it evenly with the inserted alignment tool engaged to the flywheel. after you got it torqued down, pull the alignment tool out. If you stick the alignment tool back in it should fully engage the flywheel again..This is just exacly how it will happen when you mount bellhousing to the tranny during installation.