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Tinkering On My 1957 Cj-5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Dutch, Aug 19, 2018.

  1. Oct 28, 2018
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    This primer is supposed to work pretty well, my buddy who sprayed it on for me has used it on several projects of his own. That said, it will be covered up and not just left to have water/snow land/sit directly on top of it.

    I was actually considering just putting a clear top coat over the primer and leaving it. I don't want to top coat it until after I'm done doing body work though. It has a few rust holes left behind after the sand blasting to repair, and I'll need to make some adjustments to the rear wheel openings and inner fenders. I also need to add in the under seat filler opening. add on in on the passenger side for a second tank, and things like that.

    The little Kubota should make about 100hp and 250+ ft/lb with a turbo. They're completely mechanical so the only wiring that'll be needed is the starter. Its right my alley engine wise as I've been a heavy diesel mechanic with the Army since I graduated high school. While we have a lot of HUEI CAT's now most of what I've worked on is basic mechanical diesels.

    I'm just gathering stuff up now and working on storing things. I am in the process of having a new house built and my current house has to be sold here in the next month or two. Unfortunately that means I can't get too deep into the project now. The tub will be going to a friends house and put in a shed. The CJ5 will also be going to his house and covered. I'm going to put the new throttle pedal and choke cable in first though. That way it can be driven there. Well, I need to see what is binding in the drivetrain, but I'm pretty sure its the parking brake drum. After that I'm just going to get the parts for the engine and just work on that and the drivetrain.
     
  2. Oct 28, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    by design all primer is porous, it helps with adhesion. do not rely on it to protect the steel for any length of time.
     
  3. Oct 28, 2018
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
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    9,754
    That's the thing. I have a previously restored '34 pickup, where rust is bleeding through the paint job, because there was moisture in the primer coat.
     
  4. Oct 28, 2018
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2010
    Messages:
    966
    Isn't there a "primer/sealer "that would give more time between priming and painting ?
     
  5. Oct 28, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    an epoxy would be the longest lasting but hard to work with...any modern 2k primer would be next with a few weeks to possibly months without too much damage/moisture infiltration. last would be any air dry primer, spray cans of any kind or old school lacquer primer, which lasts about as long as the solvent is in it then its a sponge. I start any job with a 2k primer surfacer as it provides a solid base for the finish. I use no air dry products, they all have an activator. this includes any filler or sealer it all chemically hardens. if I were to have to wait a long time between primer and paint I would spray some kind of hardened paint on it ,one coat would seal the primer and would be a good guide coat for sanding later. I prefer black for this as its inexpensive and easily makes low spots and pinholes visible when sanding.
     
    fhoehle and dozerjim like this.
  6. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    Its been a long time but I'm still working on this thing. I've since moved into a new house, further built and then sold the XJ, and even got married again. While all of that was going on the CJ6 tub and a lot of other parts got sold off and the CJ5 was sitting out on a friend's property nearby and kind of forgotten. I'd started on a tube chassis buggy plus had put a lot more time into the XJ, inlcuding multiple trips out to Moab with it. Then back in February I came across a guy with an early CJ6 sans paperwork and managed to work out a deal for a little body/chassis swap if you will. This required me to finally go retrieve the CJ5 and haul it over to the Western Slope in order to do the swapping of parts.

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    The CJ6 donor body and frame are 1961 but it had some interesting parts mixing going on. The grill/radiator were AMC V8 ones, the front fenders are intermediate, and the windshield frame had been converted to bottom wipers. The floor and most of the tub are solid, but at some point somebody decided to cover the majority of it in bondo and repaint it white. You can barely make out the body lines from the factory tub extension and there are some rust blisters where moisture was trapped under the bondo. Still, its solid enough for my purposes. I'm just building a retro light duty wheeler, not a show car.

    More to follow, imgur changed how it works so I need to upload all of the pictures from the last few months.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2020
  7. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    I'll group the next few posts by what was accomplished, so they'll be a bit jumbled timeline wise.

    I finally got around to getting the Kubota V2203 converted from a reefer unit to a "bobcat" unit, plus drilled the holes for my dip stick tube and turbo oil return. I made a small block off plate to remove the shutoff solenoid, I'm going to use the choke cable for the manual shut off. I then installed the Overland Diesel turbo and alternator kits. For the engine to transmission adapter I am using a Kubota Swapper Small Block Ford adapter. This was because I had been planning to put the diesel in my buggy instead for the time being and wanted to run a Ford C4 automatic behind. With the new "tub" sourced for the CJ I went back to my original plan but had already purchased the adapter and sold off my previously built Jeep T18 w/ T90 bell housing. In the end this will give me a larger clutch and doesn't change too much, just makes packaging a bit tighter.

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  8. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    For some reason somebody had installed 60's Ford Fairlane taillights into this CJ6 tub. I have no idea why but they were an eye sore IMHO and had to go. I got some Warrior Product corner guards and used them to cover up the holes left behind. I'll probably drill them out for the typical 4" grommet style lights later, but I haven't got around to it yet.

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  9. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    For some stupid reason imgur won't let me link over vertical pictures so I'm missing quite a few from this phase. While my son was on spring break I pulled him off of FortNite for a day and had him help me pull the entire front clip and powerpack from the CJ which we've named White Shadow in homage to the oversized slug from Pixar movie Turbo. I find it fitting because its an oversized CJ and with the diesel will probably move with all the speed of a slug.

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    bigbendhiker likes this.
  10. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    I found a Ford T18 with the 6:1 first gear and correct SBF bell housing. It came with the clutch and flywheel as well but wasn't able to use them as they were for a 289 V8 and I needed the neutral balanced inline 6 flywheel. It had been pulled from a butchered up MB siting on a CJ5 frame that some poor guy younger than me had bought for his first Jeep project. I wish him the best, but it made my original 5 tub look factory new by comparison. For whatever hairbrained reason the person that had swapped that engine and transmission into the MB used an Advanced adapters D300 adapter on the T18, and then a T4 to D18 adapter behind that. How the heck it all fit in there I beyond me. Even though the longer wheelbase of the CJ6 could've handled the length of the package I did some trading around and got the main shaft and adapter plate from a Jeep T18. I figured it would save on potential leak points and complications.

    I pulled the T18 completely apart and ran it all through the parts washer at work for a few hours. Then I drilled the holes for the Jeep adapter and put it all back together with a Novak rebuild kit. I wish it went that smoothly but I wound up taking the thing back apart at least twice. I had been going off of the AA instructions for their adapter and it mentioned cutting the retainer plate for the reverse and cluster shafts so I had done that. Then when first trying to put the Jeep adapter on I learned that I had to completely rework the way the retainer plate mounted. So back apart it came and another hole was drilled and tapped.

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  11. Apr 20, 2020
    Dutch

    Dutch Member

    Northern Colorado
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2018
    Messages:
    58
    After taking the Dana 18 completely apart I sourced a Dana 20 to rob the case off of. I then set about cleaning everything up and putting it all back together with a Novak kit that included their hardened intermediate shaft.

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    Apparently if I use the phone app to upload vertical picture then I can still copy them onto here. I don't get, but whatever.

    That pretty much gets me all caught up. I still have to rebuild the top cover of the T18 and then decide if I'm going to paint it or not. I kind of like the old orange paint on the transmission. The only reason I painted the D18 was because it there was no paint left on it.

    Part of my horse trading deals allowed me to acquire a narrow track open knuckle D30 with factory disc brakes that already has 5.38 gears to match my stock axles. I also got the bracket and manual steering box to get rid of the ross steering setup and better prepare myself for adding power steering later. I managed to get another windshield frame that hasn't been modified but does have electric wiper motors, factory seats and brackets from an intermediate (I just needed the brackets as mine were missing with the ugly bucket seat swap somebody had done), and an intermediate V6 grill and radiator. I wanted an early grill for the tiny turn signals but wither way this give me more access to get between the grill and radiator to facilitate adding an intercooler later if needed. The extra hubs are in case I decide to go forward with making my rear axle a full floater. I also have a set of machined spindles for it so really just need shafts (the big money item) and flanges if I decide to go that route.

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    Last edited: Apr 20, 2020
    fhoehle and givemethewillys like this.
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