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Tie Rod Socket and Bellcrank

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by sienacoach, Jun 6, 2010.

  1. Jun 6, 2010
    sienacoach

    sienacoach "Semper Fi"

    Delmar, NY
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Messages:
    42
    Hello Everyone,

    I am not so sure what is good enough to get by with or what I should replace.

    These three tie rod sockets and the bellcrank I think should be replaced.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This tie rod socket looks to be okay.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Brake shoes. Replace or hold off for awhile?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thank you for any advice.

    Lee
     
  2. Jun 6, 2010
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
    Messages:
    4,793
    normally the simplest thing to do is to have a jr jeeper turning the wheel side to side, as you look for connections that have wear. but with it apart you can just take a ball jount and any form of slop is undesired. the bellcrank has a set of needle bearings that are notoriously subject to wear but the bellcrank is normally salvagable with a common kit. if plowing snow and fields, you can get by with a lot of wear but once on the road wear is the enemy
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 6, 2010
  3. Jun 6, 2010
    sienacoach

    sienacoach "Semper Fi"

    Delmar, NY
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Messages:
    42
    I would like it to be road worthy. Would I punch out the old needle bearings and then replace them with a new set? When I checked the bearings it looked like there was two rows and one of the rows appeared to be missing several bearings.
     
  4. Jun 7, 2010
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    650
    My 2 cents would be to put a bearing kit in the bellcrank and replace the tie rod ends if they are not known to be good. If the brake shoes are not soaked with brake fluid or grease and they are not down to the rivets or nearly worn through I would not be afraid to run them.
    One thing to keep in mind with the original 9 inch brakes is that performance wise they are marginal but sufficient for a stock rig with stock tire sizes, They will stop with larger than stock tires but it requires some thinking ahead by the driver. 9 inch brakes must be in nearly perfect working order to get the most out of them, One of the biggest performance issues with the 9's is unfortunately an expensive one initially........overturned drums.
    If you install new brake shoes the lining should make nearly full friction contact with the drum for its entire length, Its my opinion that at least 3/4 of the new shoe lining length should show initial friction contact after a test drive. If not I would recommend replacing the drums.
     
  5. Jun 7, 2010
    hotrod351

    hotrod351 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    225
    you can buy a complete set of new tie rod ends on ebay for around $40.00, thats all four of them. i recently bought a set of M38A1 ends.
     
  6. Jun 7, 2010
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,118
    Run your finger around the ball on the bell crank, if you can feel a flat spot it needs replacing. Same thing for the pitman arm on the steering box.

    Buy a bellcrank repair kit & replace the needle bearings but check for "wriggle" after it's back together, the shafts that come with the rebuild kits have been known to be a bit undersized.

    I'd also replace the ball sockets in the drag link just on spec.

    Have you checked the steering box for shaft play?

    H.
     
  7. Jun 7, 2010
    sienacoach

    sienacoach "Semper Fi"

    Delmar, NY
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Messages:
    42
    Thanks for all the helpful advice. The drag link and steering box are my next step in servicing the steering.
     
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