Tie rod interference

I just got my Steering Linkage Kit from Herm. On the site it states there can be some interference but because of my aftermarket springs I have extra interference. I am torn between just cutting the top of that band and carrying on with the install or going tierod over with the kit from rock equipment. Any comments would be appreciated. thanks Phil

 

What size lift are the new springs (if any)? Take a looky here:http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84096&highlight=degree+shim Look familiar?

 

can the springs be flipped around ?. no idea if they have the same bushing frt to rear or designed for one direction or if the clamp on the other side of the spring is in the same place.

edit: or the center pin is in the center of the spring

 

They look like Rancho springs. Tie rod looks thicker than normal. I think I cut top off the band on mine. Been thinking about changing the steering around to make a sort of high steer set up like you are saying. Just by flipping the tie rod ends to the top of the knuckles. Only real problem I see with that is whether or not the rod end on the drag link, from the steering box, will meet up w/ the rod end on the tie rod itself ( like there in your picture). You'd also have to ream the hole in the knuckles to accept the taper of the rod end.

 

My Rancho springs only have the clips on the main and second leaves-out near the spring eyes. If it were mine, I would just cut the tops off the clip and see it that clears enough. The inward bend is not making it stronger and it should still function unless you start getting big air. The backup plan would be to flip the tie rod.

 

i say cut it. When its bouncing or accelerating it gets farther away from the spring so i think youll be good.

 

On my jeep if you reversed the springs the clamp would be seriously in the way. For my steering conversion to clear the springs I had to add caster shims.

del

 

Thanks everyone, the springs are rancho 1" lift, they are symmetrical so it doesn't mater which way they are. Herms tie rods are defiantly more heavy duty than stock (notice the need for a lock nut instead of a clamp) but that doesn't effect the interference problem because the tie rod end is thicker still. The caster shims seam to be the way to go for a start. I measured my caster and it is about 3*, the consensuses on the web is between 0* and 8* the bigger # better for PS, I would like to leave cutting as a last resort because it is always easier to cut something of than to put it back. Phil

 

curious, where does your drag link hook up? If it is the front in the closer opening to the knuckle, that will cause the rods to overlap and may cause problems. I had the same issue in mine and corrected it by switching the rods around. BY the way, I also have Herm's kit. I have a Black Diamond lift. Same issue with the wrap. I had mine cut and added a wrap closer to the spring perch. No issues now. Also added shims to correct the caster. I can add pictures if you want.

 

The drag link is suppose to go in that hole in the picture as I understand it, I have not mounted my steering box so I can easily adjust the upper end of the drag link. I don't understand what you mean buy switching around the rods. pictures might help thanks Phil

 

Have you driven this Jeep yet? I would certainly measure the caster before I went any further. A caster shim will increase the tie rod clearance by about 3x-4x its thickness difference.

Also, I'd cut that thick spring wrap. No hesitation - my sawzall would make short work of it.

 

Yes I last drove it in the fall, it doesn't need more caster for handling, despite the play in the stock steering it would track straight and no sign of death wobble. these clearance Issues have come up during my Saginaw conversion. Right now I measure the caster at 3*.

 

If you are at 3* now you have room to go more with no detrimental effects. I don't like to go more than 7* but that gives you a lot of wiggle room. A couple of steel tapered shims would most likely take care of that without removing or cutting the clamps.

 

some pics of my conversion.. No issue with binding. Had some issues with death wobble but it turned out to be something else. I have 3 degree caster shims installed. Hope these pics help..

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/85md/57 CJ5 Restoration/IMG_1064.jpg

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/85md/57 CJ5 Restoration/IMG_1030.jpg

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/85md/57 CJ5 Restoration/IMG_1029.jpg

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/85md/57 CJ5 Restoration/IMG_1014.jpg

 

I think your wrong that doesnt look like the bottom of any jeep iv ever seen wayy too clean and new

 

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/IMG_1014.jpg

I hope you have since installed all cotter pins.

 

I think you mean the loose nut on the drag link. Yes, that was fixed. Only thing is there are no cotter pins on the tie rod or drag link bars. The nuts are just tightened down. However, all cotter pins are installed wherever there were holes for them.

 

should be holes in the tie rod ends as well....
I don't think I've ever seen a tie rod end not drilled
it's a safety item and concern

 

I got these heavy duty rods from Herm when I had my CJ5 rebuilt. The heavier duty rods did not have any holes drilled in them. Hard to say where to put the hoes though. I will have to take another look at them when I get back from vacation.
The only issue I see with Phil mounting the power steering box is if the box mounts behind the tie rod (such as my ford reverse steering setup in the engine bay). The pitman arm and drag link would have to cross over the long tie rod to mount in the unused hole in his initial picture. That could cause problems when flexing the system. Connecting the rods like mine would fix that problem. I don't think there is any issue with an unstable steering. Anyone know if connecting the rods this way will cause any problems? I have only under 300 miles on my CJ5 since the rebuild and I am new to Jeeps, so I can't say much about how they are supposed to steer (not like a Porsche I am sure).