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This can't be good

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by mpc, Feb 25, 2006.

  1. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    I had one side of my Jeep jacked up higher than the other to remove the wheels and fluid leaked out passed the drum. :cry: I'm assuming I have a bad axle seal. Any thoughts before I dive in?

    View attachment 8217
     
  2. Feb 25, 2006
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Jack up the side that leaked and pour it back in? :D

    Sounds like a wasted seal. But the day I'm having I'm the wrong one to say. :oops:
     
  3. Feb 25, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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  4. Feb 25, 2006
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
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    That's the reason we all use "knuckle pudding" it won't pour out and contaminate brakes!!
    Check for a missing spindle bolt!!
     
  5. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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  6. Feb 25, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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  7. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Does someone have a good source for that part?
    Now I'm really behind schedule for the Death Valley trip.:rofl:
     
  8. Feb 25, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Walck's, 4WD Hardware, Turner 4WD, all the usual suspects have 'em. :)

    Easy job.
     
  9. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Okie dokie. Best way to learn is by doing it. Any special "watch out for.." or "don't forget to.." items I should know about.
     
  10. Feb 25, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Get a fish scale so you can check the bearing preload on the kingpins when you reassemble. The drag when hooked in the knuckle tie rod hole should be between 12-16 lbs. with no seal on the knuckle.

    Be ready to order new kingpin bearings and races. They may be bad.

    Other than that it's a simple job, you're already this far into it. ;)
     
  11. Feb 25, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    Mike,
    Definitely go ahead and remove the upper & lower kingpins now and inspect the bearings and races. LOL you'll know if theyr'e toast or not. If ok, then you'll just need the seals and fish scale, and I have both that I could overnight to you on Monday if necessary. :beer: But if the bearing(s) are bad, then you'll have to get new ones and it may make sense to tear down the other knuckle as well. Either way, the next step is to yank off those kingpins and have a look-see. :)
     
  12. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Okay, I'll have to show my ignorance here. The kingpins are the ball studs? I didn't realize there were bearings there as well. I really have know idea what your talking about Sparky, as far as pre-loading. Will this all make more sense once I finish taking everything apart? That's the part I'm good at.R) I've been reading through my Chiltons, but it has info like "re-assemble in reverse order" - big help.
     
  13. Feb 25, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    Mike, I just read the Chilton's take on this, and yes it's less-than-stellar. R)
    Pg. 8-7 has a diagram, and calls the Kingpins, # 11 & #23, "Upper Bearing Cap" and "Lower Bearing Cap". Yes there are bearings in there. :D

    If necessary I could type out or send you a photocopy of the preload instructions from the FSM for you. :)
     
  14. Feb 25, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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  15. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    That would be great! For some reason I'm just not picturing it.

    I found the bearings. :) No slack in them, but one sounds like its got some dirt in it. Guess I'll pull the other side apart and get a complete list of parts needed. Yes, the gasket was bad. It looks like the rubber gasket was pinched or folded over. I felt like an archaeologists as I was chipping away at the crud to expose the bolts that haven't been seen for decades. R)
    View attachment 8248
     
  16. Feb 25, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Need a "pickle fork" to seperate the tie rod end from the knuckle, possibly a tie rod end dust cap or two as well now that I think about it.
     
  17. Feb 25, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    Why do I need to take the tie rod off?
     
  18. Feb 25, 2006
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    To measure bearing preload... Besides, it would be way easier to assemble it the tie rod wasn't attatched...
     
  19. Feb 26, 2006
    TigerShark

    TigerShark Sponsor

    St. Louis, MO
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  20. Feb 26, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
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    Umm, yeah I neglected to mention that tid-bit 'o info about the pickle fork. Might not be necessary; I survived for years just banging the heck out of the tie rod bolt out of the knuckle hole. R) The tie rod end is tapered to match the knuckle hole, so when tightened it's pretty much 'pressed' on. Can be a Beeatch to bang out, but can be done w/out pickle fork. Just twist the castle nut on flush w/ the TRE and bang away w/ a BFH :twisted:.

    Be not afraid of the "bearing preload" part. It can be explained when you get to that point. ;) Piece 'o cake.

    The kingpin bearings look ok? You'll definitely know if they aren't. They should look ok; sure wish I had a pic of my bearings how I discovered them, lol. :D
    -Alan
     
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