Thinking about Herm's full-floater kit for my D44... have a few questions

Hey Guys,

As the title says, I'm thinking about converting my Jeep's rear end to a full-floater using Herm's conversion kit. I have a 1965 CJ5A, all stock drive train, 4:27's, 10" brakes, running 31x10.50's. I have a few questions about the conversion and about some other stuff...

First off, I replaced my pinon seal about 2 or 3 years (approx 4,000 miles) ago because it was leaking... and now its leaking again. Is it the seal that went bad or does it sound like the carrier pinion bearing? There is a clunk that I hear every now and then when starting from a stop, under load... it sounds like its coming from the wheel more than it does the differential.

I'm pretty sure my jeep has the 19 spline axle shafts. The front and rear axles are original. Do I have to pull my axle shafts out to check this or is there a different way?

Will I need a case-spreader to complete this conversion? I haven't done ANYTHING with axles before other than wheel bearings, change fluid, etc. Will I need to adjust backlash or anything like that?

Assuming my jeep does have the 19 spline axle shafts (I'll be sure to check first though), should I just stick with those when I go to do this conversion or should I go with the 30 spline? I wouldn't mind having a selectable locker, I just don't know if I want to spend all the money (still in college)...

Any input or advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
Dennis

 

Sounds like you're headed for future axle repairs.
Unless you really need the extra duty.....
Stay with your tapered axle as it is.
Narrow CJ Dana 44's are excellent axles without changing a thing.
A 4 cylinder Jeep with a tapered Dana 44 in good condition will never break the axle !
If your axle needs repairs tend to that.
Then save up for a traction device if that trips you're trigger.
Go with the best overall ........ Powr-Lok.

 

A Tux w/ a V6 w/ a young foot on the throttle means you'll probably break something in a tapered 44. However, about any route you take is going to run into some money. Finding a flanged 44 from around 69-71 would be the cheapest upgrade. A full floater is nice but will cost much more (w/ a selectable locker toss in another thousand).

If I were you, I'd go ahead and finish college, keep an eye out for a flanged 44 w/ a right side offset, and make my decision after I'm drawing a paycheck. Oh and pretend there's an egg under your throttle foot.:v6:

 

Would a 65 have a V6 or an F head?

 

Well, I've seen tapered 44 axles bent, spun, and broke. 41s even moreso. I can't speak to the assembly of said axles, but I saw the result myself. As to the V6 it was an assumption considering the year and the fact that many early Tuxs had swapped in V6s from the dealer.

What can I say? It was advice based on my experiences. Take it or leave it. Meh.

 

Speaking of a flanged set-up DMCjeep has onefor sale South of Grand Haven for 250 including a frame, springs and front axle. Might want to look at that?

 

what I would do as well
yes, I broke an axle or two with my 4 banger
41 and 44
me screwing around in 2wd low range

 

Hey guys sorry for taking so long to get back on here... I've been really busy with other stuff. My Jeep has the f134 with the T90C and a stock D18. I appreciate all of the input you guys are giving me.

Does anyone have any idea why my pinion seal would be leaking so soon after it was replaced? The only thing I can think of is that I might have forgot to put the rubber o-ring on with the new seal. Anyways, I was just wondering if anyone thought it was a pinion bearing or anything else that could be causing this....

Is DMCjeep's setup in the classified ads? I'll check again, I didn't see it the first time I looked.

Thanks again!

 

If the pinion bearings were loose then it could wipe out the new seal or if the garter spring popped off during installation (back side) it would cause the same thing. I typically put some vaseline or grease in the recess where the spring goes to keep it from popping out of place.
One of the most common issues with a seal leaking after replacement is dirt getting in there during installation or the yoke seal surface being pitted. If you grab the yoke can you move the drive pinion gear in and out or side to side? If so that indicates bearings or preload being incorrect. If not I'd suspect what I already mentioned.

 

Nick's post sort of gets to this, but if the yoke is grooved on seal surface, the life of a new seal will be very short. A new yoke or a speedie sleeve will cure this. I find the grooves far more common than pitting.

 

I agree. If the groove is real shallow and the burrs are removed a lot of time the seal will follow the groove and not leak, but as you said, it's much better to install a speedie sleeve or replace the yoke.