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The Square Deal

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by duffer, Oct 21, 2013.

  1. Nov 12, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2020 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    3,287
    Do Lock-o-matics have a true, free-wheeling only mode? I think 'auto' mode is what you would normally drive them in - including 2wd - and that they are a bit unique in the auto engage (must shift to 4wd and be driving forward with traction?). Do you plan to use the auto mode, or just run them in manually locked all the time?
     
  2. Nov 13, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
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    The Lock-O-Matics work in "auto" mode in both forward and reverse, "activated" only by applying a load via the driveshaft. The auto engagement is by means of a sprag clutch system, the rollers of which are pinched between that heavy outer steel ring and the flats on the pretty beefy splined hub section. You can see both the forward and reverse wear patches on the photo.
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    In manual mode all those steel parts are bypassed and the load is transferred to the wheel hub via the aluminum cap and the 12 steel pins.
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    In the manual mode, these hubs are still significantly stronger than a 2 cam style hub but probably not as strong as something like Selectro's steel spline engagement design. The only real downside to operating in the auto mode is that the hubs will disengage anytime there is no perceived input loading, ie, when decelerating or going down hill. That can have some pretty detrimental effects if you are on ice or hard packed snow and dependent on both axles or when engine braking going down steep slopes. And why I usually just lock then in when hitting any Jeep trail. For occasional mud holes, snow drifts, and rough trail reaches, the auto mode is great.
     
    fhoehle, Twin2, jeepstar and 2 others like this.
  3. Nov 19, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Finished the shims for the front axle mounting this afternoon.
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    Five degree shims with 3/4" forward off-set. With 400 lbs on the front bumper, axle has 5 degrees negative caster. Should work just about perfect.
     
    47v6 and Buildflycrash like this.
  4. Nov 26, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Finished up the first of 4 "saddle" plates for the U-bolt flip today. Most of the pieces are cut out for the other three.
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    I also have the sway bar mocked up and the axle weld mounts done.
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    The links are JKS items for JK's that I got in a box of used stuff from a friend who sold his 14 Rubicon. I would have never bought these new for this application but they should work very well for this. They actually have spherical, greasable bushings. I had to machine out the pins for the sway bar ends.
     
    Muzikp, Twin2, 47v6 and 5 others like this.
  5. Dec 4, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Today I finished welding up the left side base plate/shock mount, painted, and installed/torqued down. I almost scummed to just buying Ruff-Stuff's weld on shock brackets but decided to stick with Plan A which positions the shock mount a couple inches lower but hopefully well out of the way of the rock.

    Now I need to remove the right side and weld on the shock mount bracket and get some paint on that side. It's also time to figure out what I want to use for shocks so I can fabricate the upper shock mounts.
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  6. Dec 5, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
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    For what it's worth, here is the parts list for the front axle.
    AXLE HOUSING: R&P wide track CJ “Freedom”. (narrowed F250 housing)

    Narrow track spring pad location, 5 degree caster, 5 degree up pinion angle, ½” wall tubes. Housing tube ID = 1.725”. WMS/WMS = 55 5/8”.

    KNUCKLES: Reid Racing. D440015L, SN 20; and D440015R, SN 31.

    BALL JOINTS: Moog K8194T (upper), K8195T (lower).

    SPINDLES: 8 hole IH Scout II.

    DISK BRAKE CALIPER BRACKET: IH Scout II.

    DUST SHIELDS: IH Scout II, 8 hole. Kentrol

    AXLE SHAFTS: Dutchman 4340 Chrome molly, 30 spline inner, 27 spline outer, Spicer 5-760X u-joints, Axle OD at end of tube = 1.347”.

    WHEEL BEARINGS: Inner Timken LM501349/LM501310 (Set 45), outer Timken LM102949/LM102910.

    HUB WHEEL SEAL: National 442874, CR 23300, Victor 46467.

    SPINDLE NEEDLE BEARING: Torrington B2110.

    SPINDLE SHAFT SEAL: CR 19992. (Torrington B2110 + seal = National Bearing Set SBK-1).

    PINION BEARINGS & CONES: Front-02872/02820, rear-31594/31520.

    ARB CARRIER BEARINGS AND CONES: LM104949/LM104912. ARB shim kit SHK009.

    ARB LOCKER: RD116, SN 13051017.

    INNER AXLE SEAL: National 40769S.

    BRAKE ROTORS: Wagner BD60458 (11.75 x 1.188”, minimum thickness 1.120”).

    BRAKE PADS: Best Brake Organic D92.

    BRAKE CALIPERS: Cardone 18-4096, Cardone 18-4095. 3.125” pistons. These fit all sorts of AMC/International/and maybe Ford applications, 1974-1980.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
  7. Dec 14, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I welded up and installed the right side front shock mount today.
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    Front end just about finished.
     
    fhoehle, 73 cj5, 45es and 3 others like this.
  8. Dec 19, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Yesterday I finished mounting the sway bar. My initial thoughts on this were to make weld plates with welded-in studs to bolt the sway bar brackets to but there just wasn't that much real estate available. I drilled the frame for direct mounting and then used a hole saw on the box section to gain access to the nuts. But bolting the brackets directly on the frame left no room for the "centering" collars so I added a third bracket on a welded-in piece extending from the front bumper reinforcement to the crossmember. I used Energy Suspension's non-greasable bushings because they have a lower height than their greasable versions. I then drilled/tapped and added the zerk fittings.
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    fhoehle, 73 cj5, 47v6 and 1 other person like this.
  9. Dec 23, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I made a shackle stop for the left side yesterday. I'm not really comfortable with how the Holbrook springs mounted even though they were perfect as per instructions. Under full loading, the shackles still stand almost vertical with only a slight angle forward. I'm not too concerned with the right side as an inverted shackle there from hitting an obstacle would only result in a bent/broken spring. But folding up the left side would pinch the pitman arm/drag link and eliminate any steering. Pics at something close to full droop.

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  10. Dec 23, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    I ran into this issue on my build. I bit the bullet and cut off my spring mounts and pushed them forward to get the right angle.
     
  11. Dec 23, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Always an option but my hangers are REALLY welded on. I'm definitely going to tack weld the rears and weight it before actually welding and will for sure move those at least a 1/2" rearward from what the installation instructions indicate.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  12. Dec 24, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    Yeah, against advice, I finish welded mine and then had to cut them off. It was really unpleasant.
     
  13. Dec 24, 2019
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member 2020 Sponsor

    Louisville, Ky
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    When I did my Jeep, the shackles where not angled right. The springs have relaxed and the angle is getting better. I would leave everything alone
     
  14. Dec 24, 2019
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Brown Santa brought my front shocks today. Fit and travel perfect. I'm going to mount the reservoirs on the fenders.

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    As to the spring mounting, yes i'm leaving it the way it is for the time being. A re-evaluation only following some real trail miles.
     
    txtoller, dozerjim, Rich M. and 2 others like this.
  15. Jan 10, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I received my front brake hoses yesterday (Wilwood's) and finished plumbing up the front brakes. I used the copper/nickel line. Everything appears to clear at both full stuff/droop and against the knuckle stops.
    Front right
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    Front left
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    73 cj5, Rich M., SKT and 2 others like this.
  16. Jan 16, 2020
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
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    Some folks on this forum do real nice work, then we see stuff like this, and you cant help but sit back in amazement. I tip my hat to you sir.
     
  17. Feb 18, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I finally got the brakes bleed to my satisfaction yesterday. I had no intention of doing any work other than what was involved with the front axle swap but my first attempt to bleed the system resulted in a spongy pedal. That necessitated re-bleeding the master cylinder and because it is mounted at an angle, it's removal and bleeding in the bench vise. Alas, as one would maybe expect (the master and four wheel discs were installed in 1989), it was just starting to leak. And in another lesson on why it's not good idea to use rare stuff in a swap, I could not find an exact replacement for that master cylinder. It's original application was for the mid 80's Shelby version of the Dodge Charger 024 with four wheel disc brakes. The cheap alternative, Rock Auto's Wagner cylinder has too small of bore and despite its description, was cast iron rather than aluminum. Enter the Wilwood version. It fit perfect and is 1 1/16" bore compared to the original 7/8's but with the power booster, I doubt that will be noticeable. And the extra volume is welcome because the front caliper pistons went from 2 1/2" to 3 1/8". I had to remodel the pedal a bit to obtain more travel before it hit the floor and that was only good for about 0.1". It still needs about that much more to bottom the piston in the master cylinder but that requires a new hanging pedal bracket fabrication. I'm going to try it as is. That extra 0.1" only comes into play if I loose one of the circuits. And as long as the system was apart, I replaced the rear calipers and pads (78-81 CJ). Everything is now new except for the lines mounted to rear axle which will be replaced in total sometime after I get it back on the road.

    These are the 3 masters (no, thankfully not opera). Rock Auto Wagner replacement left, original Chrysler center, and Wilwood on right.
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    txtoller likes this.
  18. Mar 9, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Perhaps anal, but I spent the last 2 1/2 days cleaning up my almost 50 year old valve covers. A long way from perfect. I also made a "hard" fitting for the left side valve cover breather. I noted the grommet was wallowed out when I removed these covers from the 381 so the new fitting is O-ring sealed on the cover with a dash 8 O-ring female thread for the breather line.

    The challenge of this is that there isn't clearance for anything outside the breather assembly shell. I had to pop two spot welds to get the baffle out to fit my nut inside and then make the spacer to hold the nut in position. The baffle was the re-spot welded in-place after assembly.

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    tymbom, 45es, Bandit and 2 others like this.
  19. Mar 11, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I installed my old LT 1 valve covers/spacers and got the engine prelubed today. Ran a temporary line from the oil filter to the front pressure feed. This block doesn't have the typical small block oiling system. There is no oil filter provision and it can be set up either wet or dry sump. Using the wet sump, the oil pump is in its normal position with the pressure out port above where the normal oil filter boss is located. You have the option of pressure feeding from the front or rear of the block but being the rear is very close to the firewall, that wasn't a good option. The oil galleries are also different and restrictor plugs are used to control the oil to the lifters/valve train. I purged about a quart of oil out of the temporary line before hooking it up. All went well with about 65-67 psi and what looks to be close to optimum oiling on the rockers. The pump is just Stephs' version of the Melling high volume small block pump. I usually use big block pumps in my small blocks but with the 8620 steel cam and composite distributor gear, that extra load didn't seem like a very good idea. The pan/oil filter volume is a little over 7 quarts. The engine oil cooler/pressure lines will replace that temporary line when installed.

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    The distributor is now positioned where I want it (rotation wise) and set probably plus or minus 2 degrees from the 12 degrees before TDC specified for the fuel injection system. Tomorrow I will make the spark plug harness and the engine will be complete except for the skid plate.
     
    47v6, tymbom, Muzikp and 2 others like this.
  20. Mar 11, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member 2020 Sponsor

    Sacramento Ca.
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    Oh my!!! That's pretty epic!
     

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